2019 Berry Bros. & Rudd Gavi di Gavi by Roberto Sarotto, Piedmont, Italy
About this WINE
Roberto Sarotto, Piedmont
Located close to the town of Gavi, in the frazione Zerbetta, at 260 metres above sea level on ancient Miocene sedimentary marne/tufo soils that are identical to those found in the Langhe to the north, Roberto & Aurora Sarotto’s 12ha Tenuta Manenti estate is perfectly placed to grow exquisite Cortese grapes for their fine Gavi del Comune di Gavi wines; the nutrient poor white soils focussing Cortese’s energy into the fruit, not the leaves.
Berry Bros. & Rudd started buying Roberto’s Gavi di Gavi in 2001 when he was winemaker at the Cantina Sociale (Cooperative), identifying his talent as a top producer of fine Gavi di Gavi. This relationship grew when Roberto bought his own estate shortly after.
Tenuta Manenti estate produces two hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed Cortese Gavis: ‘Bric Sassi’, from the upper, higher part (the ‘bric’) of the single 12 ha vineyard, strewn with stones (‘sassi’), which consistently treats us to ethereal, honeydew, white flower Gavi; while the Gavi ‘Aurora’ comes from fruit grown in the lower part of the vineyard, on clay rich soils, giving a fuller, fruitier style of wine.
Gavi
Gavi di Gavi (aka Cortese di Gavi) is a famous white wine DOCG zone in Piedmont, Italy. The 1,200-hectare vineyard area surrounds the city of Gavi itself.
Cortese is the grape behind the wines of Gavi di Gavi, and is distinguished by its crisp, floral, peachy, aromatic qualities. Its wines are best enjoyed young.
Piedmont’s most famous (and finest) white grape, Cortese has produced wines here since the 17th century. It only covers 1,500 hectares of the whole region, and is mostly found around the city of Alessandria and the Monferrato hills.
Recommended producers: Roberto Sarotto
Cortese
This white grape produces wines in the appellations of Cortese dell'Alto Monferrato, Colli Tortonesi as well as the DOCG wine of Gavi di Gavi. Cortese is a native grape variety of Alessandria in Piedmont and tends to perform best in the hills between Novi and Tortona in Piedmont. The grape has been so successful in Gavi (which is located in the south of Piedmont close to Liguria) that it is known there as Cortese di Gavi.
Typically produces wines that are pale lemon-white in colour, possess a fine fragrance and are steely and dry on the palate. The best examples can develop an intense honeyed richness with medium term ageing.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
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I was recently asked which gavi is my favourite. This one, from Berry Bros, is among them. Produced from the cortese grape, it has a straw colour and vivacious aromas of apple and pear. Perfect with an alfresco salad.
Will Lyons, Sunday Times (May 2021)
There’s a lot of cheap gavi around, but this elegant, delicately almondy one is well worth the extra expense. A versatile wine to drink with shellfish, as well as richer fish dishes
Fiona Beckett, The Guardian (April 2020)
Our own-label Gavi is made by Roberto Sarotto. Produced from Cortese grapes, Gavi is the quintessential Northern Italian white, famed for its delicacy and finesse. This textbook example offers elegant aromas of white flowers and green pear. The palate is focused and energetic, with generous layers of fresh apple and lemon peel, while the white tufo soils of the vineyards impart a beautiful, refreshing minerality to the finish. Perfect with shellfish, white fish or delicate green vegetable dishes.
Davy Žyw, Wine Buyer (February 2021)
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