2019 Mirum, Verdicchio di Matelica, Riserva, La Monacesca, Marche, Italy
Critics reviews
Drink 2023 - 2031
Eric Guido, vinous.com (Oct 2021)
About this WINE
La Monacesca, Marche
Couched high up in the Appenines in the eastern province of Marche lies the La Monacesca (Italian for monastery) La Monacesca estate, on the site of ancient salt-lake of the Paleolithic era rich in minerals. The estate was so-called because of the monastery erected by Benedictine Monks on the run from the dastardly Lombards in 900 A.D. Fast-forward to 1966 when Casimiro Cifola purchased the land and began planting Verdicchio.
For many years the estate has been producing a range of high quality white wines and the Cifolas are now considered by some, among the best white wine producers in the whole of Italy, not just the Marche.
Their estate is located in the largely inaccessible region of Matelica, in the Marche region of central Italy and it is now run by Casimiro's son Aldo Cifola. The 22 hectares of vineyards are located at high altitudes near to the Umbria border and are planted with 80% Verdicchio and 20% Malvasia.
The white wines are distinctive and expressive of the terroir of the district. Over the years, Gambero Rosso has honoured several of their wines with coveted "Three Glass" awards, the most exclusive wine awards in Italy. Until recently the estate has concentrated almost exclusively on white wines, but is now beginning to work with red grapes.
Verdicchio di Matelica
Only a tenth of the size of the Castelli di Jesi DOC, the 300ha of vineyards in Verdicchio di Matelica lie up the hill from their more famous counterpart, on mineral-rich calcareous clay soils at a lofty altitude of 400m.
These factors, combined with a continental climate, help produce one of Italy’s very top white wines. Vinification in stainless-steel is combined with lees contact which delivers a rich, complex wine with a pleasing almost salty twist such is the high level of dry extract.
Recommended producers: La Monacesca.
Verdicchio
Verdicchio is one of the most widely planted white grape varieties in the Marche region of central Italy. It has been cultivated for over 600 years and is the grape behind two of the Marche's most important DOCs – Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, to the west of Ancona and 20 miles from the Adriatic Sea, and Verdicchio di Matelica, further inland and at a higher altitude, close to the Umbria border.
Verdicchio's name is derived from verde, meaning green, referring to the yellowish-green skin of the grape, which gives the wine a subtle, greenish hue. It produces crisp, dry, mineral wines of naturally high acidity, often with hints of citrus fruits and almonds. It is also well suited to the production of sparkling wine and Verdicchio was one of the first Italian spumantes back in the 19th century.
Verdicchio has recently been proven to be identical to Trebbiano di Soave, Trebbiano di Lugana (aka Turbiana) and Trebbiano Veltenesi.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Tank Sample: Rich herby fruit, with hints of greengage, mint and white flower honey on the nose. Fabulously full and mouth filling on the palate, savoury and salty with hints of honey and herbs again, rich fruit, balanced perfectly with tingling acidity, long, saline and very fine on the finish. Another superb Mirum from the genius that is Aldo Cifola.
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Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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