2019 Barolo Bussia, Fogliati, Piedmont, Italy

Poderi Fogliati

In the very heart of Barolo, where the communes of Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, La Morra and Monforte d’Alba meet, we find the rising hill of Pugnane which leads to the northern tip of the Bussia cru. This special location is home to the relatively unknown cantina Podere Fogliati, run by the vibrant and ambitious Annalisa Chiappa. After time working as a lawyer in Miami, she returned to her family home in 2016 with one goal: to realise the enormous potential of her family estate.

Before her return, Annalisa’s mother sold grapes to Ceretto and Pio Cesare. Both wineries evidently appreciated the calibre of terroir here, and the quality yielded from the millefleur of complex soils at Podere Fogliati. This is now a true single estate; all five hectares of organically-managed vineyards surround the family property, including the 80-year-old Nebbiolo vineyard from which Annalisa creates her captivating Barolo Bussia.

Piedmont

Piedmont has long been renowned as Italy's premier fine wine province, with its reputation dating back to Roman times and further solidified under the House of Savoy, which wielded influence over Europe during the Middle Ages from its Turin stronghold. Piedmont's prominence in Italian history was notably highlighted as a driving force behind Italian Reunification in 1861.

Situated in the north-western part of Italy, Piedmont boasts a continental climate shaped by the nearby Alps and Ligurian Apennines, influencing both its culture and winemaking traditions. The region is home to several renowned fine wine areas, including the Langhe region, encompassing esteemed appellations such as Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as Monferrato, which features wines like Asti and Gavi, and Novara with its Colline Novaresi and Boca.

Nebbiolo reigns supreme as Piedmont's quintessential grape variety, with its stronghold in the production of illustrious wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco. Following closely are Barbera d'Alba or Barbera d'Asti, and Dolcetto, known for its role as an early-ripening antipasti wine, particularly around Dogliani. Among whites, Moscato takes center stage, crafting both the effervescent Asti and the more refined Moscato d'Asti.

Piedmont also produces notable red wines like Brachetto d'Acqui and popular dry whites such as Gavi, made from the Cortese grape. Remarkably, despite contributing only a small fraction to Italy's total wine production, Piedmont boasts the highest proportion of Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines.

For those seeking exceptional Piedmontese wines, recommended producers include Roberto Sarotto, Marinacci, Punset, Luisin, Roagna, Fratelli Alessandria, Trediberri, Vigneti Luigi Oddero, Marcarini, and E.Pira di Chiara Boschis, among others.

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.

A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.

Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.

Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.