2019 Barolo Treturne, Fogliati, Piedmont, Italy
Critics reviews
Drink 2023-2032
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com (November 2022)
About this WINE
Poderi Fogliati
In the very heart of Barolo, where the communes of Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, La Morra and Monforte d’Alba meet, we find the rising hill of Pugnane which leads to the northern tip of the Bussia cru. This special location is home to the relatively unknown cantina Podere Fogliati, run by the vibrant and ambitious Annalisa Chiappa. After time working as a lawyer in Miami, she returned to her family home in 2016 with one goal: to realise the enormous potential of her family estate.
Before her return, Annalisa’s mother sold grapes to Ceretto and Pio Cesare. Both wineries evidently appreciated the calibre of terroir here, and the quality yielded from the millefleur of complex soils at Podere Fogliati. This is now a true single estate; all five hectares of organically-managed vineyards surround the family property, including the 80-year-old Nebbiolo vineyard from which Annalisa creates her captivating Barolo Bussia.
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
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Description
Made from a selection of three 80-year-old vineyard plots, the Barolo Treturne represents the essence of Podere Fogliati. The wine underwent a long maceration, followed by two years in 50 hectolitre Stockinger botti and cement vats. The nose is generous, high-toned and filled with fragrances of essential oil and old-vine spice. The palate offers sweet berry fruit, and the typical firm tannins of the 2019 vintage, but with a prizeworthy, sandy-soil softness. There are mineral notes and hints of musk rose on the finish.
Drink 2025 – 2043
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