2020 Cepparello, Isole e Olena, Tuscany, Italy
Critics reviews
The 2020 Cepparello is dense, powerful and soaring in intensity. A dark, almost somber Cepparello, the 2020 possesses remarkable depth from start to finish. Black cherry, plum, gravel, dried herbs and lavender build in a vivid, stunningly beautiful Cepparello that hits all the right notes.
Drink 2028 - 2045
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (June 2023)
Dark ruby. Enticing, lifted, rich cherry laced with the perfect dose of oak. Polished, full, concentrated and supple on the palate; suave and long, with finely ground tannins woven into the succulent fruit. Quite rich and full-bodied on the finish and clearly a very ambitious wine, but could do with a little more of Sangiovese’s bite. That may come with more age.
Drink 2025 - 2034
Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com (May 2023)
Supple and smooth, the 2020 Cepparello brings Sangiovese to soaring heights in a manner only Paolo De Marchi can manage. This is his second to last vintage before he would retire and sell this historic estate. The wine opens to medium to full-bodied concentration with dark plum and redcurrant. Those cede to sweet spice, earth, crushed stone, rusty nail and candied orange peel. Give the wine more time to flesh out with cellar age. It registers a powerful 15% alcohol content.
Drink 2024 - 2045
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (May 2023)
Attractive red and dark berries with dried flowers, nutmeg and cocoa powder. Dried orange peel and wet earth, too. Medium- to full-bodied, toned and steady with fine-grained tannins that are slightly chalky. Polished and even with a lingering finish.
Try after 2026
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (May 2023)
A long, hot summer with good day and nighttime temperature variations led to an even ripening. Balsamic and medicinal tones introduce a bright, chewy cherry palate with wood and spice notes. Earth and pomegranate touches emerge towards the finish, framed by ripe, grippy tannins and good acidity. Still very youthful, it will improve with age but seems to lack a little bit of the intensity seen in the 2019.
Drink 2024 - 2052
James Button, Decanter.com (January 2023)
About this WINE
Isole e Olena
The Isole et Olena Estate, run by Paolo de Marchi for 45 years, is a Tuscan property that has seen a dramatic rise in quality over the last few decades. Paolo's family, originally from Piedmont, purchased the estate in the 1960s. His attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery was the driving force that turned quality around. The estate was purchased by the EPI group recently, who have expertise in Tuscany, also owning the famed Montalcino estate Biondi-Santi.
The wines have Cepparello at their head, a barrique-aged Sangiovese classified as an IGT - because at the time of its creation in the 1980s a wine comprising 100% Sangiovese could not legally be labelled as Chianti. There is a Chianti Classico and a Vin Santo, as well as some excellent wines from the Collezione de Marchi label, including a Syrah called Eremo, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay.
IGT Tuscany
IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Tuscany is a wine classification from Italy's Tuscany region. It is one of the official wine classifications recognized by the Italian government. IGT is a step below the highest classification, DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), and above the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) level.
The IGT classification was introduced in 1992 to allow winemakers more flexibility in grape varieties and employ winemaking techniques while still ensuring a certain level of quality and geographical indication. This classification gives winemakers more freedom to experiment and innovate, deviating from the strict regulations of the DOC and DOCG classifications.
IGT Tuscany wines can be produced throughout the entire region of Tuscany, encompassing various sub-regions and terroirs within the area. This classification allows winemakers to use traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, and non-traditional grape varieties, including international ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and others.
The IGT Tuscany classification gives winemakers the flexibility to create wines that showcase the unique characteristics of their specific vineyards and winemaking styles. It allows for experimentation with blending different grape varieties, using innovative winemaking techniques, and exploring new regional vineyard sites.
IGT Tuscany wines can vary greatly, from traditional and terroir-driven expressions to more modern and international styles. This classification has played a significant role in developing Super Tuscan wines, often IGT designated and known for their high quality and international recognition.
Overall, IGT Tuscany provides a platform for winemakers in the region to express their creativity and produce wines that reflect their unique vision while maintaining a connection to the rich heritage and traditions of winemaking in Tuscany.
Sangiovese
A black grape widely grown in Central Italy and the main component of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as being the sole permitted grape for the famed Brunello di Montalcino.
It is a high yielding, late ripening grape that performs best on well-drained calcareous soils on south-facing hillsides. For years it was blighted by poor clonal selection and massive overcropping - however since the 1980s the quality of Sangiovese-based wines has rocketed upwards and they are now some of the most sought after in the world.
It produces wines with pronounced tannins and acidity, though not always with great depth of colour, and its character can vary from farmyard/leather nuances through to essence of red cherries and plums. In the 1960s the advent of Super Tuscans saw bottlings of 100% Sangiovese wines, as well as the introduction of Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the most famous being Tignanello.
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Description
Cepparello is widely considered one of the best value Super Tuscan wines you can still get your hands on. When it was first released in 1980, there were still very few 100% Sangiovese wines around. Isole e Olena proved right from the start, why it is considered one of the leading producers in the region.
This instantly transports you to the rolling hills of Tuscany – baked earth, blood orange, mint and dark berry fruit, all the things I want in Sangiovese. Lots of vanilla and spice as well, this will need a couple of years to fill it’s powerful frame. Paolo di Marchi has taken this historic Tuscan estate to ever loftier heights and this, his penultimate vintage, is a Cepparello of the highest order.
Drink 2025 - 2040+
Fergus Stewart, Private Client Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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