2020 Barolo, Commune di Serralunga d'Alba, Luigi Baudana, Piedmont, Italy
Critics reviews
Blend of three Serralunga vineyards: Costabella, Baudana and Ceretta.
Really convincing nose. Racy and polished tannins. Really lively. Long and dry but not drying. So clean. Lovely pure fruit.
Drink 2025 - 2035
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (November 2023)
The Luigi Baudana 2020 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba has a strong aromatic imprint with ferrous earth, iron ore, dried flower, orange peel, spice and dark fruit. There is good freshness too, despite the hot-vintage conditions. Fresh berry flavors give this wine an approachable character (and vibrant energy). That pretty freshness is what you will remember most.
Drink 2026 - 2038
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Arpil 2024)
This is a sleek and savory Barolo that shows notes of blood orange, wild raspberries, white tea and peaches, with a touch of brined olive. It’s medium- to full-bodied, fine-tannined and elegant.
Best after 2026
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (February 2024)
A youthful ruby red colour, the 2020 Barolo offers more nervous energy on the nose, opening with notes of smoky incense, red cherries, cranberry, and orange peel. It packs in a good deal of tension on the palate, with iron-rich mineral notes, a slightly gamey, earthy feel, and a youthful, gripping nature. It’s going to benefit from another year and will drink well 2026 - 2046.
Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)
The 2020 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga from Luigi Baudana boasts enticing aromas and flavors, including succulent black cherry, black raspberry, licorice, crushed mint and iris. Smooth and fresh, it features tightly woven, polished tannins and great balance. Utterly delicious.
Drink 2025 - 2035
Kerin O'Keefe, KerinOKeefe.com (October 2023)
About this WINE
Luigi Baudana
With only 2.6 hectares of vineyards, Luigi Baudana is one of the smallest cantinas in Serralunga d’Alba, and has been managed by GD Vajra since 2009. Production is still in the tiny Baudana winery – quite literally in the family garage. The wines carry Luigi Baudana’s fierce Serralunga character, but have benefited from Vajra’s influence, which emphasises classical structures, vivid fruity purity, passion and authenticity. While easy to miss, the quality of these ensures they are the stars of the future. Quantities are tiny, so please contact your account manager to register interest.
Barolo
Located due south of Alba and the River Tanaro, Barolo is Piedmont's most famous wine DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), renowned for producing Italy's finest red wines from 100 percent Nebbiolo.
Its red wines were originally sweet, but in 1840 the then extant Italian monarchy, the House of Savoy, ordered them to be altered to a dry style. This project was realised by French oenologist Louis Oudart, whose experience with Pinot Noir had convinced him of Nebbiolo's potential. The Barolo appellation was formalised in 1966 at around 1,700 hectares – only a tenth of the size of Burgundy, but almost three times as big as neighbouring Barbaresco.
Upgraded to DOCG status in 1980, Barolo comprises two distinct soil types: the first is a Tortonian sandy marl that produces a more feminine style of wine and can be found in the villages of Barolo, La Morra, Cherasco, Verduno, Novello, Roddi and parts of Castiglione Falletto. The second is the older Helvetian sandstone clay that bestows the wines with a more muscular style. This can be found in Monforte d'Alba, Serralunga d'Alba, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour and the other parts of Castiglione Falletto. Made today from the Nebbiolo clones Lampia, Michet and Rosé, Barolo has an exceptional terroir with almost every village perched on its own hill. The climate is continental, with an extended summer and autumn enabling the fickle Nebbiolo to achieve perfect ripeness.
Inspired by the success of modernists such as Elio Altare, there has been pressure in recent years to reduce the ageing requirements for Barolo; this has mostly been driven by new producers to the region, often with no Piedmontese viticultural heritage and armed with their roto-fermenters and barriques, intent on making a fruitier, more modern style of wine.
This modern style arguably appeals more to the important American market and its scribes, but the traditionalists continue to argue in favour of making Barolo in the classic way. They make the wine in a mix of epoxy-lined cement or stainless-steel cuves, followed by extended ageing in 25-hectoliter Slavonian botte (barrels) to gently soften and integrate the tannins. However, even amongst the traditionalists there has been a move, since the mid-1990s, towards using physiologically (rather than polyphenolically) riper fruit, aided by global warming. Both modernist and traditional schools can produce exceptional or disappointing wines.
Recommended traditionalist producers:
Giacomo Borgogno, Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Marcarini, Bartolo Mascarello and Giuseppe Mascarello.
Recommended nmdernist producers:
Azelia, Aldo Conterno, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino and Roberto Voerzio
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The already miniscule quantity (normally 300 bottles) is down by 30% this year, so even more of a rarity than usual. The blend is from the Costabella, Baudana and Cerretta vineyards, harvested on 9th October and kept on skins for 65 days, then in tini for two years. The bouquet is intense with dried fruit, spice and candy, with a top note of sweetness for the vintage but the attack and structure on the palate is strong and very Serralunga.
Mark Pardoe MW, Wine Director, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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