2020 Bolgheri, Vermentino, Grattamacco, Tuscany, Italy
Grattamacco was one of the first wineries on the Tuscan Coast to commit to Vermentino in a significant way. The hard work and experimentation completed over the years has paid off handsomely. The organic 2020 Bolgheri Vermentino sources its fruit from a three-hectare plot at a breezy 100 meters in elevation with a mix of white clay and flysch soils. One-third of the wine goes into tonneaux, and the rest goes into steel tank for six months. Nailing harvest time is very important with Vermentino because it can suddenly lose its freshness in a matter of days. This wine offers a pretty combination of citrus, rosemary, white pepper and preserved lemon over a crisp, mid-weight body. 15,000 bottles were produced.
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Jul 2022)
About this WINE
Grattamacco Estate is perched atop a hill facing the Tyrrhenian Sea between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri along the Maremma coast in Tuscany. Founded in 1977, Grattamacco was one of the first along with Sassicaia, to start producing wines in this region. Of the 80ha estate, 29ha are dedicated to vines. The 10ha of vineyards dedicated to making Grattamacco are located on steep slopes 100 metres above sea level.
The vineyards are protected from the strong winds by a natural valley and organic farming techniques are practiced. The vines have an average age of 20 years and only the best grapes from each vineyard are used to make this wine. 2017 Grattamacco is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese.
The harvest is done by hand, vinification of the Sangiovese grapes take place in open wooden vats and stainless steel for the other two varieties. Manual punch downs are carried out to facilitate a gentle extraction of the tannins. The wine is then aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and a further 12 months in bottle.
Bolgheri is a new DOC in the coastal Maremma region which first rose to prominence during the 1970s with the emergence of the so-called Super Tuscan wines like Ornellaia and Sassicaia. These new ventures had rocked the DOC establishment by using high proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, opting out of the DOC system and relabeling their wines as simply Vino da Tavola (table wine).
Having won universal acclaim and exchanging hands for unprecedented prices (higher even than Tuscany's finest examples), the authorities relented and awarded Bolgheri its own DOC. The actions of the Super Tuscans inspired a generation in Italy, even if some of the wines here have lost a little of their lustre since.
Vermentino is a white wine grape, also known as Rolle (in Rousillion and Provence) & Malvoisie in Corsica . It migrated from the Iberian Peninsula in the late 1300s (Madeira?) into Corsica, Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany during the 15th century.
Traditionally believed to be related to Malvasia, recent DNA studies have instead revealed traits in common with the Hungarian Furmint.
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is one of the most famous incarnation - The grape has recently become fashionable in parts of central Italy. Often blended for its structure, on its own the grape displays aromatic ripe peach and honeyed notes and a full body.
Tenuta di Valgiano incorporate a significant slug of this grape into their 'Giallo dei Muri' Tuscan wine
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This Vermentino comes from one of Bolgheri’s oldest estates, Grattamacco. The grapes are grown on calcareous and marl soils; the result is almost Riesling-like, with amazing ageing potential. The palate is beautifully mineral, with underlying soft, fleshy white fruits. This has stunning tension and is brimming with energy and will only improve and relax in the coming years. The length is remarkable – you can really sense the sea breeze blowing in from the coast of Maremma. Drink now to 2032.
Katie Merry, Buying Assisstant, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Aug 2022)
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