2021 Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, Clos de Tart, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Just a little more depth of colour than Forges, but not by much. The bouquet suggests a greater depth of classy red fruit, all about subtlety rather than power. This is about the tensile strength rather than overt power. A redcurrant and raspberry fruit, all red berries, fine-boned tannins and a good balance with acidity. Everything in its place, a fine long finish, but absolutely not the more monolithic style of an earlier period. Drink 2029 - 2040
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (November 2023)
From vines that average around 60+ years of age; <55% whole clusters and 65% new wood.
This also flirts with reduction though aggressive swirling eventually coaxes notes of various red berries and herbal tea nuances. There is excellent underlying tension to the super-sleek, bigger-bodied flavours that also possess a refined, even sophisticated, texture thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the beautifully balanced, persistent and harmonious finish. This is lovely and a wine that should easily be capable of rewarding mid to longer-term keeping yet is not so compact and backward that it couldn't be approached after 7 to 8 years.
Drink 2031+
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2024)
The 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was bottled in July 2023. It has much more intensity than the La Forge, though there remains a bit of new oak to be subsumed at the moment. The medium-bodied palate has fine depth and freshness, considering the growing season. It offers soft red berry fruit and touches of sous-bois - not complex but feels long and tender on the finish. Perhaps not quite matching my expectations from barrel, yet it is still a commendable showing, given the season.
Drink 2026 - 2044
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (January 2024)
Unwinding in the glass to reveal notions of sweet red berries and plums mingled with orange zest, rose petals and sweet spices, the 2021 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a textural attack that segues into a layered, enveloping mid-palate, framed by sweet, powdery tannins and ripe acids. This combines all the inherent charm of the vintage with rare depth and seriousness.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2023)
‘Classic Pinot Noir’ according to winemaker Alessandro Noli. He has spared no expense to produce a superb wine, declassifying to premier cru swaths of the Clos that didn’t meet his expectations. The result has a lovely, ripe, expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit with accents of earth and sweet oak spice and a silky precision to the texture that is firm if less powerful than in recent years. The overall result is a beautiful expression of the Morey terroir.
Drink 2027 - 2040
Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.com (November 2022)
About this WINE
Domaine Clos de Tart
Located in Morey-St Denis, Clos de Tart is the largest of Burgundy’s five Grand Cru monopole vineyards. The vineyard dates to at least 1141 and has had just four owners in that time. Today, it is part of François Pinault’s Artémis Domaines, alongside Ch. Latour, Domaine d’Eugénie and more.
The largest of Burgundy’s five Grand Cru monopole vineyards, Clos de Tart occupies some of the greatest terroir in Morey-St Denis. The vineyard dates to at least 1141, when it was purchased by the Cistercian nuns of Notre Dame de Tart. There have been just four owners in that time, and today it is part of François Pinault’s Artémis Domaines, alongside Ch. Latour, Domaine d’Eugénie, Eisele Vineyard and more.
The 7.52-hectare clos is situated at the south end of Morey-St Denis, bordering Bonnes Mares to the south and Clos des Lambrays in the north. The vineyard has been divided into 13 plots.
The cellars have seen considerable renovation in recent years, with a new vat room inaugurated in time for the 2019 vintage. Director and winemaker Alessandro Noli now works with 15 wooden vats of varying sizes (20 hectolitres to 40 hectolitres) to enable plot-by-plot vinification
Clos de Tart has since 2015 been farmed organically, with organic certification as of the ’18 vintage. Biodynamic practices were adopted in ’16, with certification from the ’19 vintage. The estate maintains a vine nursery in Morey-St Denis.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.
The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.
Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.
- 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
- 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
- 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
- Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
From vines that average around 60+ years of age; <55% whole clusters and 65% new wood.
This also flirts with reduction though aggressive swirling eventually coaxes notes of various red berries and herbal tea nuances. There is excellent underlying tension to the super-sleek, bigger-bodied flavours that also possess a refined, even sophisticated, texture thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the beautifully balanced, persistent and harmonious finish. This is lovely and a wine that should easily be capable of rewarding mid to longer-term keeping yet is not so compact and backward that it couldn't be approached after 7 to 8 years.
Drink 2031+
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2024)
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