2021 Saumur Blanc, David, Arnaud Lambert, Loire
Critics reviews
The 2021 Saumur Brézé Clos David is a tranquil and calm Chenin, bringing silken flesh around its tangy acid backbone. Attractive nectarine, ripe apple and citrus aromas are joined by a subtle pastry character from 10 months on lees and a lick of cream from partial malo. While 2021 is a cool vintage, it finishes with a hint of warmth that lightly detracts from what is a delightful wine, mainly if your name's David.
Arnaud Lambert studied wine in Saint-Émilion and Burgundy and was employed at cooperage François Frères. Lambert came home in 2005 to work with his father, who passed away in 2011. He introduced organics in 2009 – including in rented parcels – and has since started practising biodynamics. With vineyards in the appellations of both Saumur and Saumur Champigny, he makes Chenin Blancs that are savoury and soulful, offering a firm line of acidity that provides precision.
I remember being blown away by Lambert’s single-vineyard Clos David and thinking I needed to know more about this estate. Lambert shows a sensitive hand in oak and captures ripeness without opulence. Arnaud Lambert is a domaine in the ascendancy.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (October 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine Arnaud Lambert
Domaine Arnaud Lambert is located in the Anjou region, specifically in the village of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg. The estate’s substantial 50-hectare holdings are situated in Saint-Cyr and Brézé, in the appellations of Saumur and Saumur-Champigny.
Arnaud Lambert began working on the family vineyards in 2005 and decided in 2009 to transition them to organic and biodynamic farming practices. His focus is always on quality, and he firmly believes that these methods enhance the quality of the grapes and help to express the true essence of the terroir in his wines.
Today, the estate is certified organic and biodynamic, reflecting its commitment to sustainable viticulture and respect for the environment. Arnaud is also innovating in the vineyard, no longer trimming his vines but instead using tressage (a technique of folding the foliage) to help manage the effects of warmer and drier summers.
The domaine has a wide array of single vineyard cuvées, each expressing its character through careful and considered winemaking. For instance, Arnaud uses yeasts that he has selected from their indigenous populations to have greater precision with fermentations. He is also a strong advocate of the need for extended ageing in oak barrels for his top wines to avoid reinforcing Cabernet Franc's austerity. His key focus is to make wines that retain freshness and purity in the face of a changing climate.
Anjou-Saumur
Anjou-Saumur is a Mid-west Loire region most famous for the fine sweet Chenin Blanc wines of Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon (including the exemplary - if tiny- Quarts de Chaume appellation) and Coteaux de l'Aubance.
The bulk of the wines produced in the Anjou region comprise the bland `Rosé d'Anjou' (made from the Grolleau grape) and marginally better Cabernet d'Anjou; Some smoky dry Anjou Chenin Blanc also produced.
The Saumur region's bread and butter is its Mousseux, while it also produces some dry Saumur Chenin (similar to Anjou's version) and some impressive Cabernet Franc, chalky dry thanks to the `tuffeau' soils.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
The 2021 Saumur Brézé Clos David is a tranquil and calm Chenin, bringing silken flesh around its tangy acid backbone. Attractive nectarine, ripe apple and citrus aromas are joined by a subtle pastry character from 10 months on lees and a lick of cream from partial malo. While 2021 is a cool vintage, it finishes with a hint of warmth that lightly detracts from what is a delightful wine, mainly if your name's David.
Arnaud Lambert studied wine in Saint-Émilion and Burgundy and was employed at cooperage François Frères. Lambert came home in 2005 to work with his father, who passed away in 2011. He introduced organics in 2009 – including in rented parcels – and has since started practising biodynamics. With vineyards in the appellations of both Saumur and Saumur Champigny, he makes Chenin Blancs that are savoury and soulful, offering a firm line of acidity that provides precision.
I remember being blown away by Lambert’s single-vineyard Clos David and thinking I needed to know more about this estate. Lambert shows a sensitive hand in oak and captures ripeness without opulence. Arnaud Lambert is a domaine in the ascendancy.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (October 2023)
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