2022 Meursault, Le Tesson, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Jean-Philippe is having to do a lot of individual vine replanting here. Clear pale lemon and lime, showing finesse on the nose, softly approachable, good clear lemon notes behind. Not quite the intensity of its heyday perhaps, but still some energy though and decent length.
Drink 2028 - 2036
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (December 2023)
Moderately generous wood is again present on the markedly more floral-suffused aromas of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, carnation, pear, white peach, and less evident citrus influence. There is a beguiling purity to the medium-weight flavours that possess a sleek, even silky, mouthfeel while delivering outstanding persistence on the lightly stony, balanced, and noticeably more complex finale. This is very classy and a wine that should age gracefully.
Drink from 2030 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (June 2024)
Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.
The 2022 Meursault Le Tesson doesn’t quite have the drive of Fichet’s Sous le Château on the nose and comes across as a little muted by comparison. The palate is well balanced, with a citrus peel entry—orange rind and tangerine. It’s quite controlled and penetrating toward the finish, although it needs a little more charm.
Drink 2025 - 2038
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (January 2024)
About this WINE
Jean-Philippe Fichet
Jean-Philippe Fichet made his first vintage in 1981. After a few challenges, he settled into his current – and rather splendid – cellars at Creux du Coche, by the Hôpital de Meursault.
About Jean-Philippe Fichet
Over the years, Jean-Philippe has built up an array of Meursaults, all from lieux-dits. He has no Premiers or Grands Crus in the village, though there’s a small parcel of Premier Cru Referts in Puligny.
In the vineyard
Jean-Philippe is very much a vigneron; it’s the time in the vineyard that counts. He believes that soil health is critical, and for 15 years he’s been making and applying his own compost to his vineyards.
Meursault
There are more top producers in Meursault than in any other commune of the Côte d’Or. Certainly it is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations. Its wines are typically rich and savoury with nutty, honeyed hints and buttery, vanilla spice from the oak.
Even though it is considerably larger than its southerly neighbours Chassagne and Puligny, Meursault contains no Grands Crus. Its three best Premiers Crus, however – Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes – produce some of the region’s greatest whites: they are full, round and powerful, and age very well. Les Perrières in particular can produce wines of Grand Cru quality, a fact that is often reflected in its price. Meursault has also been one of the driving forces of biodynamic viticulture in the region, as pioneered by Lafon and Leflaive.Many of the vineyards below Premier Cru, known as ‘village’ wines, are also well worth looking at. The growers vinify their different vineyard holdings separately, which rarely happens in Puligny or Chassagne. Such wines can be labelled with the ‘lieu-dit’ vineyard alongside (although in smaller type to) the Meursault name.
Premier Cru Meursault should be enjoyed from five to 15 years of age, although top examples can last even longer. Village wines, meanwhile, are normally at their best from three to 10 years.
Very occasionally, red Meursault is produced with some fine, firm results. The best red Pinot Noir terroir, Les Santenots, is afforded the courtesy title of Volnay Santenots, even though it is actually in Meursault.
- 305 hectares of village Meursault. The best vineyards include Clos de la Barre, Tesson, Chevalières, Rougeot, Narvaux
- 132 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (17 in all). The finest vineyards include Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes
- Recommended producers: Comte Lafon, Arnaud Ente, Coche Dury, Guy Roulot, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Patrick Javillier, François Jobard, Michel Bouzereau
- Recommended restaurant: Le Chevreuil
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
The pick of Jean-Philippe’s lieux-dits is on the slope and the closest to the best Premiers Crus. At this stage of the tasting, it is always hard to remember that there are no actual Premiers Crus in this Meursault range, such is the quality. The wine’s hallmark is that it combines a honeyed and slightly tropical side with evident spicy minerality.
Drink 2026 - 2042
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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