2022 Côtes du Rhône Rouge, Colline, Domaine la Cabotte, Rhône

Domaine la Cabotte

Purchased in 1981 and owned by the Plumet family ever since, the domaine has grown from 10 to 30 hectares of vines, with an additional 12 hectares coming on-stream this year, and 1.5 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is certified organic and farmed biodynamically. The mainly limestone and sand soils of the plateau of the Massif d’Uchaux are very poor in nutrients. This enables them to produce wines of real finesse and elegance in comparison to those from neighbouring appellations. Eric and Marie-Pierre Plumet believe that managing the environment around the vineyard is essential for a site’s health – from maintaining their 15 hectares of forest, to regulating water and the influence of wind, to promoting biodiversity. Son Etienne has been part of the team here for the past few years and is taking biodynamic innovations forward with his parents. Across the board, their wines are pure, mineral and fine.

The 2021 vintage was just as challenging for this domaine as it was for their neighbours, however, here Etienne talks of how their biodynamic approach saved them. He states that, after spraying vines that were 40% frosted with a valerian tea-infusion, the grapes recovered, leaving only 5% final damage. The freshness of 2021 is hugely complementary to Cabotte’s beautiful purity of style. These are wines with great ageing potential, especially La Sauvageonne. Etienne recently tasted a vertical of this wine from the last decade and each one was fresh as a daisy. The Colline Blanc is from the warmer and more fruit-forward 2022 vintage which Eric and Marie-Pierre describe as “one beautiful vintage in the making”.

Côtes du Rhône

Côtes du Rhône, located in southern France’s Rhône Valley, is one of the country’s largest and most well-known wine appellations. The region is renowned for producing a wide range of high-quality wines, with vineyards extending from just south of Lyon in the north to Avignon in the south, covering both banks of the Rhône River.

Côtes du Rhône is celebrated for its wide array of red and white grape varieties. The primary red grape varieties include Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, while the main white grape varieties consist of Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne.

The region is divided into several appellations, each with distinct characteristics and regulations. The hierarchy ranges from the broad Côtes du Rhône appellation to more specific and prestigious sub-appellations like Côtes du Rhône Villages and Crus such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, and Hermitage.

The region benefits from a diverse terroir, contributing to the different wine styles. The northern part has a continental climate, while the southern portion enjoys a Mediterranean climate, which plays a vital role in grape ripening and flavour development.

The red wines are highly regarded for their rich and robust flavours. They often exhibit notes of dark fruits, herbs, spices, and distinctive peppery quality, especially in the Syrah-dominated wines from the northern Rhône.

The white wines are typically aromatic and elegant, with flavours of stone fruits, floral notes, and hints of mineral complexity.

Côtes du Rhône also produces excellent rosé wines, which are refreshing and perfect for warm weather enjoyment.

Winemaking in Côtes du Rhône has a long history from ancient times. The region preserves a combination of traditional methods and modern techniques, allowing winemakers to express the unique characteristics of their terroir.

Côtes du Rhône wines are versatile and pair well with a wide range of dishes, including roasted meats, hearty stews, grilled vegetables, and cheeses.

Southern Rhône Blend

The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.

The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.