2022 Colore Bianco, Bibi Graetz, Tuscany, Italy
Critics reviews
Ideal with a 30 minute carafe.
Bibi Graetz here takes the little known Ansonica grape and gives it the Colore twist. Restrained aromatics, lightly poached savoury pear for the dominant flavours, fresh acidities, white pepper and cloves, edges of bay leaf, understated and unusual. This is elegant, with stature and texture Has precision and clarity of flavour, with a salt-licked signoff, strongly recommend a half hour carafe before drinking, because this needs time to show its complexity - it was even more delicious the next day, always a sign of a great wine that has enough structure and complexity to age.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (August 2023)
Intense aromas of lime skin and other citrus fruit. Some apricot, too. Crushed stone. Sea breeze and crushed sea salt. Full-bodied with a firm and intense texture that is so long and flavorful. It goes on for minutes. Nice bitter notes from the dried lemon and apricot. Botanicals. Light chewiness adds to the complexity.
Drink or hold
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (October 2023)
Slightly less expressive on the nose than the Testamatta Bianco, this 100% Ansonica from old vines, is more subtle with pear, apricot, wild honey, white blossom and a delicate dusting of pepper and clove spice. Generous and charming, this settles quite quickly on the tongue, a dash of bitterness, soft acidity, sweet and ripe yellow fruit, warming toasted and herbal nuances and salty edges.
It's concentrated and detailed, but more brimming under the surface at this point, not yet ready to come out all guns blazing. Beautiful construction and a captivating display of flavours. I love the nuance and the rawness - tastes somewhat wild and a true expression of the grape and place with such a long-lasting finish. Extremely moreish and just begs another sip to see the evolution. A great wine.
Drink to 2032
Georgina Hindle, Decanter.com (August 2023)
About this WINE
Bibi Graetz
Bibi Graetz founded his eponymous Tuscan winery in 2000. Born in Florence, Bibi comes from a family of artists. Bibi himself studied art before pursuing wine as a full-time endeavour. He still paints sometimes, notably for the striking labels of his wines including Colore and Testamatta. The operation is based out of a disused hotel, the Aurora, in the town of Fiesole which lies in the hills above Florence.
Working with his own estate vineyards as well as fruit sourced from other growers, Bibi describes his model as “Californian”. His white wines Colore Bianco and Testamatta Bianco come from fruit grown on the island of Giglio, around eight miles from the Tuscan coast. Both wines are produced from the Ansonica grape; the island is home to a stock of old vines, some up to 100 years old.
For his reds, he works with 100% Sangiovese fruit from a selection of vineyards in the hilly area best known for Chianti – though Bibi uses the Toscana IGT designation for his wines. Colore is now produced exclusively from old vines, at least 80 years old for the 2021 vintage. Bibi now makes Testamatta only from north-facing slopes.
IGT Tuscany
IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) Tuscany is a wine classification from Italy's Tuscany region. It is one of the official wine classifications recognized by the Italian government. IGT is a step below the highest classification, DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), and above the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) level.
The IGT classification was introduced in 1992 to allow winemakers more flexibility in grape varieties and employ winemaking techniques while still ensuring a certain level of quality and geographical indication. This classification gives winemakers more freedom to experiment and innovate, deviating from the strict regulations of the DOC and DOCG classifications.
IGT Tuscany wines can be produced throughout the entire region of Tuscany, encompassing various sub-regions and terroirs within the area. This classification allows winemakers to use traditional Tuscan grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, and non-traditional grape varieties, including international ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and others.
The IGT Tuscany classification gives winemakers the flexibility to create wines that showcase the unique characteristics of their specific vineyards and winemaking styles. It allows for experimentation with blending different grape varieties, using innovative winemaking techniques, and exploring new regional vineyard sites.
IGT Tuscany wines can vary greatly, from traditional and terroir-driven expressions to more modern and international styles. This classification has played a significant role in developing Super Tuscan wines, often IGT designated and known for their high quality and international recognition.
Overall, IGT Tuscany provides a platform for winemakers in the region to express their creativity and produce wines that reflect their unique vision while maintaining a connection to the rich heritage and traditions of winemaking in Tuscany.
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
Ideal with a 30 minute carafe.
Bibi Graetz here takes the little known Ansonica grape and gives it the Colore twist. Restrained aromatics, lightly poached savoury pear for the dominant flavours, fresh acidities, white pepper and cloves, edges of bay leaf, understated and unusual. This is elegant, with stature and texture Has precision and clarity of flavour, with a salt-licked signoff, strongly recommend a half hour carafe before drinking, because this needs time to show its complexity - it was even more delicious the next day, always a sign of a great wine that has enough structure and complexity to age.
Drink 2023 - 2030
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (August 2023)
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