2022 Circe, Hillcrest Road Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia

Circe Wines

Circe is a boutique label from Dan Buckle (of Domain Chandon) and Aaron Drummond (of Craggy Range). It is produced with fruit from the Hillcrest Road vineyard in Red Hill, Australia’s Mornington Peninsula. The vineyard grows Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes on deep red volcanic basalt soils.

With Port Phillip Bay to the west, Western Port Bay to the east, and Bass Strait to the south, it’s impossible to miss the predominant influence on viticulture in the Mornington Peninsula. As such, this cool location proves its worth for world-class Pinot Noir.

The Hillcrest Pinot Noir by Circe has rapidly stridden to the front and is now leading quality wine production in the area. It is sourced from a 1.2-hectare site about 2.5 miles from the coast. It was planted in 1993 in a cool, northeast-facing site.

Mornington Peninsula

Mornington Peninsula is one of Victoria's key wine regions, located  to the South of the Melbourne metropolis and is the Eastern arm,  along with the Bellarine Peninsula to the West, that creates Port Phillip Bay. On the Eastern side of the Peninsula you find another body of water, Western Port Bay, meaning that the vineyards of the peninsula are surrounded by water on three sides when you also consider Bass Straight to the South.

Since the latest wave of commercial wine production began in 1978, this cooler maritime environment has very quickly become an important wine-making area with a keen focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Aromatic varieties such as Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier are also planted here.

Soils vary from sands and alluvial clays though to volcanic soils on Red Hill these locations between 25 and 250 meters above sea level are generally well drained but hold enough of the 350mm of rain that falls during the growing season.

Now with over 60 producers the style of wines is now becoming recognisable. Chardonnays with purity and leanness not found on many other places in Victoria and Pinot Noirs with intense fruit character, spice and smoke, free of too much weight.

With the centre of Melbourne only an hour on the motorway,  this region has long housed Melbournians in the second homes over long hot Summers, therefore offering some of the most expensive real estate in the state. No surprise then that typically Mornington Peninsula wines tend not to be inexpensive. That's not to say they don't offer value, with high standards of viticulture  and very good growing conditions ensuring there is a lot of fascination to be discovered.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.