2023 Santenay, Cuvée "S", David Moreau, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Drink 2027-2030
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (January 2025)
About this WINE
David Moreau
David Moreau has taken over part of his octogenerian grandfather’s wine domaine in Santenay in Côte de Beaune, beginning with the 2009 vintage. Prior to that David has worked with Olivier Lamy and Domaine de la Romanée Conti, as well as doing a stage in New Zealand at Neudorf.
David is beginning with 5 of the family’s 9 hectares and suffice to say that significant changes in both viticulture and vinification have been made compared to the ancien regime. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s, so David has old vines to work with. They are mostly pruned by cordon royat to minimise vigour, and the land is either ploughed or left with grass depending on the circumstance of a given plot.
Santenay
Santenay, situated in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, France, is known for producing some of the world’s most prestigious and sought-after wines. The terroir of Santenay is diverse, featuring limestone and clay soils, which play a crucial role in shaping the unique character and flavours of the wines.
The region’s winemaking heritage dates back centuries, with a deep-rooted tradition of crafting exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. The village’s vineyards benefit from a favourable microclimate that promotes grape ripening while retaining freshness and balance in the wines.
The red wines often exhibit a harmonious blend of red fruit flavours, such as cherry and raspberry, and subtle earthy and spice undertones. The tannins in these wines are typically refined and well-integrated, contributing to their elegance and age-worthiness.
On the other hand, Santenay’s white wines are characterised by their bright acidity, offering refreshing citrus and orchard fruit notes with a hint of minerality.
Winemakers in Santenay take pride in following a traditional and artisanal approach to winemaking, emphasising the importance of respecting the land and expressing the unique terroir in each bottle. They aim to capture the essence of the vineyards and the nuances of the grape varieties, resulting in authentic wines that reflect their origin.
Santenay’s picturesque landscapes and dedication to producing high-quality wines attract wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs worldwide. It is a region where history, tradition, and innovation intersect, making it a compelling destination for anyone seeking to explore Burgundy’s exceptional wines and winemaking culture.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
This marvellous-value wine is named after David’s grandmother, Simone. It is a blend of two plots, Les Cornières and Les Charmes Dessus. Both are notable in that the vines consistently suffer from millerandage, giving small berries with thick skins. This wine consequently has impressive intensity and concentration, with delicious spicy black fruit flavours. It will benefit from a few years’ cellaring, with good potential to take on complexity with age.
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