2023 Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
Vivid ruby colour, reserved aromatics, well balanced, chalky slightly austere tannins, less exuberant than the 2022 vintage, while still delivering seductive and highly spiced black cherry and cassis fruits, showcasing the potential of St Estèphe in the vintage. Harvest September 12 to 29, 20% new oak. In organic conversion.
Drink 2027 - 2038
Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos, representing 47% of the volume of the château, has a plush crushed strawberry, cassis and violet-scented bouquet that displays some prudent use of oak. The palate is svelte and silky in texture and harmonious, with a judicious pinch of white pepper and graphite. A nicely poised, persistent finish wraps things up in style. This is a classy Les Pagodes that should give 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure.
Drink 2027 - 2042
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos makes a strong statement out of the gate. A blast of intense dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol, game, licorice, dried herbs and chocolate infuses the palate with remarkable textural intensity. Ample and resonant in the glass, with fabulous balance, Les Pagodes is exceptionally fine in 2023. The long, sustained finish is a thing of beauty.
Drink 2027 - 2043
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Pagodes de Cos charges out of the gate with bold notes of crushed black and red currants, fresh black cherries, and bay leaves leading to suggestions of lavender and graphite. Light-bodied and elegantly styled, the palate delivers compelling tension and bright, crunchy red berry flavors, supported by grainy tannins and finishing on a lingering chalky note. The blend is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.
Drink 2028 - 2042
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2024)
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 47% of the production. Cask sample.
Juicy, fresh and balanced. More linear than last year with finely etched tannins. Precise but lacks a bit of excitement.
Drink 2028 - 2038
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos has turned out beautifully, offering up aromas of cassis, orange zest, vine smoke and incense, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and polished palate with a deep core of fruit, supple tannins and a lively, mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2024)
The polished and creamy texture here is extremely attractive, with blueberry, blackcurrant and crushed-stone aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied with linear tannins, showing polish and finesse. Creamy mouth-feel. Second wine of Cos. 12.9% alcohol. 51% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2024)
Based on 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2023 Pagodes De Cos is a gorgeous effort offering lots of ripe red and black fruits, some graphite, toasted spice, and savory tobacco notes, medium to full body, and ripe tannins. It has a savory, firmer edge and will need some time.
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)
About this WINE
Cos d'Estournel
Château Cos d`Estournel is named after its 19th century owner, Louis-Gaspard d'Estournel, and it was he who built the bizarre oriental edifice that is a landmark for any tourist in the Médoc. Today Cos d'Estournel is without doubt the leading estate in St-Estéphe. It is located in the south of the appellation on the border with Pauillac and its vineyards are superbly sited on a south-facing gravel ridge with a high clay content, just north of Lafite.
Cos d'Estournel is typically a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc - do not be fooled by the relatively high Merlot content, as these are full-bodied, dark, brooding tannic wines when young which develop a complexity and intensity that can rival many top growths from Pauillac.
In 1998 the Prats family sold Cos d'Estournel to The Tailan Group. Cos d'Estournel is classified as a 2ème Cru Classé.
Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Estèphe is the northernmost of the most important communes of the Médoc and borders Pauillac on its southernmost border, with only a gully and stream separates it from Ch. Lafite. To the north lies the Bas-Médoc.
Saint-Estèphe is defined by the depth of its gravel, which is ubiquitous but of varying depths and occasionally very shallow, when clay predominates. This keeps the soil cooler and wetter than its counterparts so that the wines can appear fresh in lighter vintages, but superbly successful in hot, dry years.
The best châteaux in the south of the commune have the deepest soil and the thickest gravel. Cos d'Estournel has an exceptional terroir with its vineyards being located on a south-facing ridge of gravel with excellent drainage.
Saint-Estèphe is the least gravelly of main Médoc communes and in the north of the commune the vineyards are heavier and more clay-based leading to a rustic style of wine being produced.
The wines can appear austere in youth with a discernable ferric note at some châteaux, but the best typically display good depth of colour, pronounced acidity an tannins in youth and are exceptionally long-lived. At their best, they are the equal of almost any Bordeaux. The well-regarded St Estèphe co-operative controls the production of about half the appellation.
Recommended Châteaux
Cos (Ch. Cos d'Estournel), Ch. Montrose, Ch. Calon-Ségur, Ch. Lafon-Rochet, Ch. Les Ormes de Pez, Ch. Beau-Site, Ch. Cos Labory, Ch. Phélan-Ségur
Merlot/Cabernet Franc
Merlot and Cabernet Franc are grape varieties commonly used in Bordeaux-style blends, particularly in the Bordeaux region of France. When these two grapes are blended, they can create a wine that combines the best characteristics of each variety.
Merlot is known for its smoothness, soft tannins, and ripe fruit flavours. It often contributes black cherry, plum, and chocolate flavours to the blend. The grapes are relatively easy to grow and ripen earlier than other Bordeaux varieties, making them versatile for blending.
Cabernet Franc, on the other hand, adds structure, depth, and complexity to the blend. It typically brings aromas of red fruits such as raspberry and strawberry, along with herbal notes like bell pepper and tobacco. These grapes have thinner skins and can be more challenging to cultivate, requiring specific growing conditions to reach their full potential.
When Merlot and Cabernet Franc are combined, the result is a well-balanced wine with various flavours and aromas. The blend often exhibits a Bordeaux wine's medium to full body, along with a smooth texture and moderate tannins. The specific flavour profile can vary depending on the proportions of each grape in the blend and the terroir and winemaking techniques employed.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Blend: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon; 45% Merlot; 2% Cabernet Franc; 2% Petit Verdot.
Managing Director Charles Thomas explained that the Pagodes 2023 was made using only whole berries, after destalking (just like the grand vin). The objective being to emphasise the primary red fruit notes. The glossy feel with a sense of restraint that apply to the grand vin are also relevant here. The alcohol is also discrete at 12.9%. The wine has elegant precision, with crisp and crunchy notes of graphite and spice sitting below redcurrant and cassis aromas. Yields are decent at 45 hl/ha and about 40% of the production was used for Pagodes.
Drink 2027 - 2038
Our score: 16/20
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