2023 Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

2023 Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

Product: 20238004370
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2023 Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, Bordeaux

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Description

Blend: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon; 45% Merlot; 2% Cabernet Franc; 2% Petit Verdot.

Managing Director Charles Thomas explained that the Pagodes 2023 was made using only whole berries, after destalking (just like the grand vin). The objective being to emphasise the primary red fruit notes. The glossy feel with a sense of restraint that apply to the grand vin are also relevant here. The alcohol is also discrete at 12.9%. The wine has elegant precision, with crisp and crunchy notes of graphite and spice sitting below redcurrant and cassis aromas. Yields are decent at 45 hl/ha and about 40% of the production was used for Pagodes.

Drink 2027 - 2038

Our score: 16/20

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Critics reviews

Jane Anson93/100

Vivid ruby colour, reserved aromatics, well balanced, chalky slightly austere tannins, less exuberant than the 2022 vintage, while still delivering seductive and highly spiced black cherry and cassis fruits, showcasing the potential of St Estèphe in the vintage. Harvest September 12 to 29, 20% new oak. In organic conversion.

Drink 2027 - 2038

Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com (April 2024)

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Neal Martin, Vinous90-92/100

The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos, representing 47% of the volume of the château, has a plush crushed strawberry, cassis and violet-scented bouquet that displays some prudent use of oak. The palate is svelte and silky in texture and harmonious, with a judicious pinch of white pepper and graphite. A nicely poised, persistent finish wraps things up in style. This is a classy Les Pagodes that should give 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure.

Drink 2027 - 2042

Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)

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Antonio Galloni, Vinous92-94/100

The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos makes a strong statement out of the gate. A blast of intense dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol, game, licorice, dried herbs and chocolate infuses the palate with remarkable textural intensity. Ample and resonant in the glass, with fabulous balance, Les Pagodes is exceptionally fine in 2023. The long, sustained finish is a thing of beauty.

Drink 2027 - 2043

Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)

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Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW90-92/100

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Pagodes de Cos charges out of the gate with bold notes of crushed black and red currants, fresh black cherries, and bay leaves leading to suggestions of lavender and graphite. Light-bodied and elegantly styled, the palate delivers compelling tension and bright, crunchy red berry flavors, supported by grainy tannins and finishing on a lingering chalky note. The blend is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.

Drink 2028 - 2042

Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent (May 2024)

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Jancis Robinson MW16/20

51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 47% of the production. Cask sample.

Juicy, fresh and balanced. More linear than last year with finely etched tannins. Precise but lacks a bit of excitement.

Drink 2028 - 2038

James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)

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Wine Advocate91-93/100

The 2023 Les Pagodes de Cos has turned out beautifully, offering up aromas of cassis, orange zest, vine smoke and incense, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and polished palate with a deep core of fruit, supple tannins and a lively, mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (April 2024)

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James Suckling93-94/100

The polished and creamy texture here is extremely attractive, with blueberry, blackcurrant and crushed-stone aromas and flavors. It’s medium-bodied with linear tannins, showing polish and finesse. Creamy mouth-feel. Second wine of Cos. 12.9% alcohol. 51% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot.

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (April 2024)

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Jeb Dunnuck91-94/100

Based on 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2023 Pagodes De Cos is a gorgeous effort offering lots of ripe red and black fruits, some graphite, toasted spice, and savory tobacco notes, medium to full body, and ripe tannins. It has a savory, firmer edge and will need some time.

Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)

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About this WINE

Cos d'Estournel

Cos d'Estournel

Château Cos d`Estournel is named after its 19th century owner, Louis-Gaspard d'Estournel, and it was he who built the bizarre oriental edifice that is a landmark for any tourist in the Médoc. Today Cos d'Estournel is without doubt the leading estate in St-Estéphe. It is located in the south of the appellation on the border with Pauillac and its vineyards are superbly sited on a south-facing gravel ridge with a high clay content, just north of Lafite.

Cos d'Estournel is typically a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc - do not be fooled by the relatively high Merlot content, as these are full-bodied, dark, brooding tannic wines when young which develop a complexity and intensity that can rival many top growths from Pauillac.

In 1998 the Prats family sold Cos d'Estournel to The Tailan Group. Cos d'Estournel is classified as a 2ème Cru Classé.

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Saint-Estèphe

Saint-Estèphe

Saint-Estèphe is the northernmost of the most important communes of the Médoc and borders Pauillac on its southernmost border, with only a gully and stream separates it from Ch. Lafite. To the north lies the Bas-Médoc.

Saint-Estèphe is defined by the depth of its gravel, which is ubiquitous but of varying depths and occasionally very shallow, when clay predominates. This keeps the soil cooler and wetter than its counterparts so that the wines can appear fresh in lighter vintages, but superbly successful in hot, dry years. 

The best châteaux in the south of the commune have the deepest soil and the thickest gravel. Cos d'Estournel has an exceptional terroir with its vineyards being located on a south-facing ridge of gravel with excellent drainage. 

Saint-Estèphe is the least gravelly of main Médoc communes and in the north of the commune the vineyards are heavier and more clay-based leading to a rustic style of wine being produced.

The wines can appear austere in youth with a discernable ferric note at some châteaux, but the best typically display good depth of colour, pronounced acidity an tannins in youth and are exceptionally long-lived. At their best, they are the equal of almost any Bordeaux. The well-regarded St Estèphe co-operative controls the production of about half the appellation.

Recommended Châteaux
Cos (Ch. Cos d'Estournel), Ch. Montrose, Ch. Calon-Ségur, Ch. Lafon-Rochet, Ch. Les Ormes de Pez, Ch. Beau-Site, Ch. Cos Labory, Ch. Phélan-Ségur

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Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon lends itself particularly well in blends with Merlot. This is actually the archetypal Bordeaux blend, though in different proportions in the sub-regions and sometimes topped up with Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

In the Médoc and Graves the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend can range from 95% (Mouton-Rothschild) to as low as 40%. It is particularly suited to the dry, warm, free- draining, gravel-rich soils and is responsible for the redolent cassis characteristics as well as the depth of colour, tannic structure and pronounced acidity of Médoc wines. However 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines can be slightly hollow-tasting in the middle palate and Merlot with its generous, fleshy fruit flavours acts as a perfect foil by filling in this cavity.

In St-Emilion and Pomerol, the blends are Merlot dominated as Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle to ripen there - when it is included, it adds structure and body to the wine. Sassicaia is the most famous Bordeaux blend in Italy and has spawned many imitations, whereby the blend is now firmly established in the New World and particularly in California and  Australia.

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