2023 Aile d'Argent Blanc, Château Mouton Rothschild, Bordeaux
Critics reviews
Great depth and freshness, fleshy nectarine and spiced pear, fennel and oyster shell, grilled oak and genersoity. Balances salinity and flesh, expertly judged. Harvest August 29 to September 6, 45% new oak for ageing. Co-fermented Muscadelle with Sauvignon Gris.
Drink 2025 - 2038
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (April 2024)
The 2023 Aile d’Argent contains a little more Sémillon than usual (44.5%) to add texture to the blend. It has a lovely bouquet of grapefruit and hints of lime cordial, chamomile, and lanolin. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and focused, with just a slight bitter lemon note imparting tension. A hint of ginger rises on the aftertaste. Superb.
Winemaker Emmanuel Danjoy and co-owner Philippe Sereys de Rothschild were on hand to guide me through their 2023s at Mouton-Rothschild. “We started picking on September 7, and then for the next two weeks, we just picked the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and young Cabernet Sauvignon blocks, so by September 23, we had only picked one-third of the crop,” Danjoy tells me. “So, all the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked in the final week of September. The vines relaxed after the September showers, giving us more polished tannins. This year, we used slightly less pressed wine as we had lots of tannins from the skin to choose from.”
Drink 2026 - 2038
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)
The 2023 Aile d’Argent is a rich, heady, wine that very much captures the radiant style of the year in its generous textural feel. Tangerine peel, spice, menthol, lime, dried flowers and light tropical accents abound, The 2023 is a serious dry white. There’s a bit more Sémillon in the blend and a greater emphasis on texture and structure than usual, while the oak imprint and exotic character of some previous editions have been toned down.
Drink 2025 - 2030
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (April 2024)
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris, 0.5% Muscadelle. Cask sample.
Gently aromatic with pear and citrus notes. Fresh and minerally as well. Good mid-palate weight, the ripe fruit adding a touch of sweetness. Oak well integrated. Refreshing finish.
Drink 2025 - 2030
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2024)
It is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5% Sauvignon Gris and 0.5% Muscadelle.
Evoking aromas of white flowers, lemon oil, lime tree leaves and spring flowers, the 2023 Aile d'Argent is medium to full-bodied, charming and enveloping with a fleshy core of fruit and a mouthwatering, long finish. While not as dense or fleshy as previous iterations, this vintage is a notable success within its context.
Drink 2025 - 2040
Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate (April 2024)
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 0.5% Muscadelle.
The density and beauty to this is so attractive, with a lush and flavorful character, yet it’s neatly framed by acidity and minerally undertones. Lively and salty. Part of the vineyard is on limestone, which gives that sea-salt undertone. Savoury. Fresh at the end.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (May 2024)
Lovely sweet, rich nose, some honeyed notes with dried flowers, lemon balm, tangerine and oyster shell. Ripe and clean, a great balance of soft sweet lemon and peach with stony apricot and touches of lime. A great initial burst of flavour with high acidity giving a mouthwatering freshness. Clean and precise, fresh, finessed and deep. 0.5% Muscadelle completes the blend.
Drink 2027 - 2037
Georgina Hindle, Decanter.com (April 2024)
This château makes a fabulous white. Their 2023 Château Mouton Rothschild Aile D'Argent Blanc is based on 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 44.5% Semillon, and a splash of Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle, raised in 45% new oak. Ripe pineapple, crushed citrus, white flowers, and hints of toast all emerge from this beauty. A richer, medium-bodied, vibrant white that will shine on the dinner table, it should also have well over a decade of prime drinking.
Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (May 2024)
About this WINE
Château Mouton Rothschild
Classified as a First Growth, Château Mouton Rothschild has a long and storied history; wine has been made here since Roman times. The property spans 82 hectares of vines in Pauillac, planted with the classic varieties of the region, Cabernet Sauvignon being predominant.
The estate has been in the Baron Philippe de Rothschild family since 1853, but it wasn’t until the arrival of Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1922 that its fortunes were transformed. Baron Philippe was a dynamic figure who revolutionised the estate and was the first to introduce château-bottling in 1924. He also introduced the concept of commissioning an artist to design each new vintage’s label. Some of the most notable contributors include Salvador Dalí, Henry Moore, Marc Chagall, Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, Anish Kapoor and Peter Doig.
His daughter Baroness Philippine continued to help raise the estate to new heights with numerous endeavours, including the inauguration of a new vat house in 2013. Today, her three children, Camille and Philippe Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, continue the efforts of their predecessors.
Following the retirement in 2020 of Philippe Dhalluin, the winemaking team is now headed up by Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy. With his team, he oversees over 83 hectares of vines, planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (18%), Cabernet Franc (3%), and Petit Verdot (1%). The average age of the vines is around 50 years.
Pauillac
Pauillac is the aristocrat of the Médoc boasting boasting 75 percent of the region’s First Growths and with Grand Cru Classés representing 84 percent of Pauillac's production.
For a small town, surrounded by so many familiar and regal names, Pauillac imparts a slightly seedy impression. There are no grand hotels or restaurants – with the honourable exception of the establishments owned by Jean-Michel Cazes – rather a small port and yacht harbour, and a dominant petrochemical plant.
Yet outside the town, , there is arguably the greatest concentration of fabulous vineyards throughout all Bordeaux, including three of the five First Growths. Bordering St Estèphe to the north and St Julien to the south, Pauillac has fine, deep gravel soils with important iron and marl deposits, and a subtle, softly-rolling landscape, cut by a series of small streams running into the Gironde. The vineyards are located on two gravel-rich plateaux, one to the northwest of the town of Pauillac and the other to the south, with the vines reaching a greater depth than anywhere else in the Médoc.
Pauillac's first growths each have their own unique characteristics; Lafite Rothschild, tucked in the northern part of Pauillac on the St Estèphe border, produces Pauillac's most aromatically complex and subtly-flavoured wine. Mouton Rothschild's vineyards lie on a well-drained gravel ridge and - with its high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon - can produce (in its best years) Pauillac's most decadently rich, fleshy and exotic wine.
Latour, arguably Bordeaux's most consistent First Growth, is located in southern Pauillac next to St Julien. Its soil is gravel-rich with superb drainage, and Latour's vines penetrate as far as five metres into the soil. It produces perhaps the most long-lived wines of the Médoc.
Recommended Châteaux
Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Ch. Latour, Ch. Mouton-Rothschild, Ch. Pichon-Longueville Baron, Ch. Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Ch. Lynch-Bages, Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Ch, Pontet-Canet, Les Forts de Latour, Ch. Haut-Batailley, Ch. Batailley, Ch. Haut-Bages Libéral.
Sauvignon Blanc & Sémillon
The blend used for White Graves and Sauternes and rarely encountered outside France. In the great dry whites of Graves, Sauvignon Blanc tends to predominate in the blend, although properties such as Smith Haut Lafite use 100% Sauvignon Blanc while others such as Laville Haut Brion have as much as 60% Sémillon in their final blends. Sauvignon Blanc wines can lose their freshness and fruit after a couple of years in bottle - if blended with Sémillon, then the latter bolsters the wine when the initial fruit from the Sauvignon fades. Ultimately Sauvignon Blanc gives the wine its aroma and raciness while Sémillon gives it backbone and longevity.
In Sauternes, Sémillon is dominant, with Sauvignon Blanc playing a supporting role - it is generally harvested about 10 days before Sémillon and the botrytis concentrates its sweetness and dampens Sauvignon Blanc`s naturally pungent aroma. It contributes acidity, zip and freshness to Sauternes and is an important component of the blend.
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Description
The 2023 Aile d’Argent contains a little more Sémillon than usual (44.5%) to add texture to the blend. It has a lovely bouquet of grapefruit and hints of lime cordial, chamomile, and lanolin. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and focused, with just a slight bitter lemon note imparting tension. A hint of ginger rises on the aftertaste. Superb.
Winemaker Emmanuel Danjoy and co-owner Philippe Sereys de Rothschild were on hand to guide me through their 2023s at Mouton-Rothschild. “We started picking on September 7, and then for the next two weeks, we just picked the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and young Cabernet Sauvignon blocks, so by September 23, we had only picked one-third of the crop,” Danjoy tells me. “So, all the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked in the final week of September. The vines relaxed after the September showers, giving us more polished tannins. This year, we used slightly less pressed wine as we had lots of tannins from the skin to choose from.”
Drink 2026 - 2038
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (April 2024)
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