2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc, Jardin du Calvaire, Etienne Sauzet
Critics reviews
Foudres and 600 litre barrels.
Mid lemon yellow, with notable ripeness on the nose, even some bacon fat – picked later after the heat spurt had done its work. However very far from heavy or heated on the nose, with clean cut Hautes Côtes character dominating the middle before the return of a honeyed citrus note to finish.
Drink 2026 - 2028
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (October 2024)
The 2023 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc Jardin du Calvert is made of the last fruit to be picked. Subtle wet pavement scents percolate through the malic fruit on the nose, although it's perhaps not quite as comely as the Bourgogne Blanc this year. The palate is well balanced with a crisp bead of acidity, fine complexity, light apricot and citrus peel notes with a harmonious finish. This is very fine for its class.
Drink 2025 - 2032
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (January 2025)
About this WINE
Etienne Sauzet
The original Etienne Sauzet (1903-75) put together a wine domaine of around 12 hectares and established the Sauzet name as one of the top two or three addresses in the village. Initially the domaine was taken over by his son-in-law Gérard Boudot, who arrived in 1974, but in 1991 the inheritance was split up between the three grandchildren, one of whom (Jean-Marc Boillot) chose to take out his share of the vineyards.
Since that time Gérard Boudot, now joined by daughter Emilie, and son-in-law Benoît Riffault, has augmented his holdings by purchasing grapes, some from the same appellations as his own holdings below, others to complement the range, such as Champs Gains, Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet itself.
SARL Sauzet buys the grapes from three family property-owning companies (the original Sauzet vineyards, those purchased since by Gérard Boudot, and those recently purchased by Emilie and Benoît) and also grapes from two other producers with whom they have close contact.
The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2006 and after two years of experimentation all switched to biodynamic cultivation from 2010. The grapes are sorted to remove grey rot where necessary, then pressed without crushing and fermented in oak until racking into tank before the next harvest, for a further six months élévage on the fine lees. The premiers crus receive between 20 per cent (La Garenne) and 33 per cent (Combettes) new oak with 40 per cent for the grands crus.
The generic and village wines are elegant and stylish, while the 1er and Grands Crus are splendidly concentrated and opulent, yet beautifully proportioned and never overbearing.They are some of the most sought-after wines from Puligny and are models of intensity and balance.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune in Burgundy is located on the slopes and plateaus above the Côte de Beaune, one of the world's most renowned wine-producing areas, stretching along the hills and valleys.
The climate is characterised by its semi-continental nature, with cool winters, warm summers, and moderate rainfall. This region's terroir (the combination of soil, climate, and geography) significantly influences the character of the wines produced here.
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are predominantly cultivated like the rest of Burgundy. These two grape varieties thrive in the region's soil and climate, producing exceptional wines with unique characteristics. Red wines made from Pinot Noir in Hautes-Côtes de Beaune often display elegant fruit flavours, delicate tannins, and a notable expression of terroir. On the other hand, white wines crafted from Chardonnay showcase crisp acidity, minerality, and a rich, floral bouquet.
While the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune might not be as famous as some of the more prestigious appellations within Burgundy, it is an exciting and promising region, producing distinct, elegant wines that reflect its unique terroir.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc, Jardin du Calvaire, by Etienne Sauzet is a crisp, taut, and tense white with ripe green apple, bright lime notes, and an elegant floral character. Winemaker Benoît Riffault feels that the heat of the vintage helped with ripening; this is not a rigid or tart expression of the Hautes-Côtes. There is some grip and texture behind, though the crisp tang wins out. The finish is really fine, with mouth-watering acidity keeping the alcohol nicely in check. The wine was aged in foudres from François Frères.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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