2023 Marsannay, Champs Perdrix, Geantet-Pansiot, Burgundy
About this WINE
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot
The Domaine Géantet Pansiot in Burgundy is currently run by Vincent Géantet, who is the third generation of vignerons in his family, though the vineyards and even winery buildings have changed with each new generation, as a result of inheritance laws covering a widespread family. His daughter, Emilie, continues the tradition having set up on her own while son, Fabien, has been working alongside his father since the age of 12. Edmond Géantet began domaine bottling in 1955. Vincent joined his father in 1977, taking full charge in 1989.
The vineyards are run according to lutte raisonée, with no herbicides, just one or two anti-disease chemical treatments. The grapes are sorted on three tables de tri, the last of which is done berry by berry, after destemming. The uncrushed berries are cooled to 10°C for 10 days, then warmed to 22°C for fermentation to start. The tanks are punched down once and pumped over once a day, after which the solids are given a light pressing and all the juice is left to settle for a week, so that any last sugar emerging from the pressed skins can finish fermenting. The wines are then matured in barrel for 15 months, with a couple of stirrings but no racking. 30% new wood is used on every cuvée, from Bourgogne Rouge to Charmes-Chambertin.
The Géantets now exploit 12 hectares, much of it with farming contracts. Half of this is village Gevrey Chambertin and a further three and a bit hectares generic Burgundy. A small cuvée of Ladoix has been added in 2007.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Marsannay
Marsannay is the northern most wine village in the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. Formerly known only for its rosé wine, Marsannay now has the appellation controlée for all three wine colours, though the white (Chardonnay) is rare. Vineyards now have to compete with the encroaching urban sprawl of Dijon.
- 312 hectares of village Marsannay red and a further 200 ha for Marsannay Rosé (Pinot Noir).
Marsannay is the only village-level appellation which may produce rosé wines, under the description Marsannay Rosé. - The AOC regulations allow up to 15 per cent total of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris as supplementary grapes in the red wines. For white wines, both Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are allowed, but the common practice is 100% Chardonnay.
Recommended Producers: Maison Camille Giroud Domaine Jean Fournier , Domaine de Montille
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Situated on a steep slope, Champs Perdrix is the southernmost vineyard in Marsannay, and a future Premier Cru. Fabien’s 0.78 hectares here are on shallow topsoil, giving a light, mineral and perfumed expression. Thirty percent new oak supports the delicate red fruit nicely, along with some floral, spicy touches and a chalky, mouthwatering freshness. This is crunchy and pretty, but there is a sneaky hidden depth and structure that should help it age.
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