2023 Saumur-Champigny, Rouge, Les Sybarites, Domaine Moly, Loire
About this WINE
Domaine Moly
Domaine Moly is located in Distré, five kilometres south of Saumur. Etienne Moly’s dream was to become a vigneron – he just needed the right place and vines. It was his acquaintance with Romain Guiberteau (of Domaine Guiberteau in Saumur) that pushed him, finally, in 2020 to settle in Distré with his family.
Etienne worked under Romain for a couple of years to learn all there is to know about Saumur’s terroir before officially launching his own project. Etienne’s wife, Aurelia, is also very involved in the project. They bought their first two and a half hectares in 2021, which soon became four hectares—two-thirds owned outright and one-third in fermage (tenanted).
With vines in some of the best Saumurois land, including Brézé, Etienne has four cuvées under his belt. His entry-level red Saumur is La Nomade, and his Saumur-Champigny labels are Les Sybarites and Alter Sybarites. Alter Sybarite undergoes 12 extra months of ageing compared to the straight Sybarites. All fermentations are with natural yeast, and wines are aged in large 400-litre barrels. There is very little to no new wood to retain fruit freshness and expression.
These are wines of great purity and fruit precision, making for a perfect Saumur representation. Etienne also produces a stunning Saumur Blanc, Le Bruit, which currently includes his Brézé plantings before they are to become their own cuvée.
Saumur-Champigny
The Saumur-Champigny wine region is located in the Loire Valley of France, specifically within the Anjou-Saumur area. It is renowned for producing high-quality red wines from Cabernet Franc and has held the prestigious designation of an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) since 1957.
Geographically, the region is situated on the banks of the Loire River, characterized by a diverse terroir that contributes to the unique characteristics of its wines. The vines benefit from a temperate climate influenced by the river, with warm summers and mild winters. The surrounding landscape features limestone slopes and a mix of clay, gravel, and sand soils, providing excellent drainage and ideal conditions for grape cultivation.
The dominant grape variety in Saumur-Champigny is Cabernet Franc, known locally as "Breton." It thrives in the region's terroir and produces red wines renowned for their elegance, finesse, and aromatic complexity. Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny is typically characterized by its vibrant red fruit flavors, including raspberry, red currant, and cherry, along with herbal and floral notes such as violet and graphite.
Winemaking in Saumur-Champigny emphasizes the expression of the grape variety and the unique terroir. Vineyard practices include meticulous grape selection, manual harvesting, and sustainable viticultural techniques. Many producers are also adopting organic and biodynamic farming methods to enhance the quality and authenticity of the wines.
Saumur-Champigny wines are typically aged in various vessels, including stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, or a combination, depending on the winemaker's preferences. The aging process allows the wines to develop further complexity and refine their structure.
These red wines are celebrated for versatility, making them suitable for immediate consumption and aging, and they pair well with various dishes, including roasted meats, game, charcuterie, and cheeses.
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is widely planted in Bordeaux and is the most important black grape grown in the Loire. In the Médoc it may constitute up to 15% of a typical vineyard - it is always blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and is used to add bouquet and complexity to the wines. It is more widely used in St.Emilion where it adapts well to the cooler and moister clay soils - Cheval Blanc is the most famous Cabernet Franc wine in the world, with the final blend consisting of up to 65% of the grape.
Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire where the cooler growing conditions serve to accentuate the grape's herbaceous, grassy, lead pencil aromas. The best wines come from the tuffeaux limestone slopes of Chinon and Bourgeil where growers such as Jacky Blot produce intense well-structured wines that possess excellent cellaring potential.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
Moving up the range, this cuvée is aged for 12 months in old barrels and comes from Saumur-Champigny vineyards of Chaintes and Chacé. There is a slight reduction on the nose but the raspberry, strawberry and jasmine notes are lovely. The palate has great precision with some saline notes enhancing the freshness and purity. The finish is lengthy and complex with vibrant energy.
Yoan Bernard, Fine Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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