2023 Damascene, Syrah, Swartland, South Africa
Critics reviews
The 2023 Syrah Swartland comes from 25% granite soils and 75% on schist/shale soils, with a submerged cap used for the latter and normal pump-overs on the former. This is more backward and almost surly on the nose compared to the more expressive Stellenbosch Syrah, displaying darker fruit and a little tar and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery, bordering on gritty tannins. Wuite is linear and structured in style with a Cornas-inspired finish, leaving a dash of black pepper and black olive tapenade to linger on the aftertaste. Very classy.
Jean Smit welcomed me to Damascene, which I visited for the first time last year. I asked Smit about the vintage in question. “Twenty-three is a vintage where people who make proper wines are the ones to follow. We had a drought in winter and then thunderstorms in December that gave us [vine] growth. We had to spray to prevent mildew and oïdium, and then we got the rains at the end of March.”
These latest releases, mostly though not exclusively from the 2023 vintage, reinforce Damascene as one of the finest estates in South Africa. There is an attention to detail and meticulousness here that I feel comes from Smit himself and is translated into the wines, just the Cabernet Franc behind the pack. Readers should look out for the Semillon Old Bush Vines Franschhoek, Chenin Blanc Old Bush Vines Stellenbosch, though the crowning glory is the Syrah from Swartland.
Drink 2026 - 2040
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (September 2024)
About this WINE
Damascene Vineyards
Damascene is the shared project of Jean Smit, former winemaker at Boekenhoutskloof and Canadian entrepreneur (and former owner of Château Gaby) David Curl. Together, they scour South Africa for outstanding, well-established vineyards to produce Damascene’s wines – each one displaying the regional variety of South Africa’s wine regions. Jean and David select only the finest performing vineyards, so the wines are produced in particularly small quantities. The wines are all regional, varietal examples, showcasing these South African wines in their purest forms. From the rich peach and almond palate of the Swartland Chenin Blanc to the elegant cranberry and black cherry notes of the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon, the scope of this country’s renowned viticulture is palpable in these bottles.
Swartland
After Stellenbosch, the west coast district of Swartland (25 miles due north of Cape Town, between the towns of Malmesbury and Piketberg) now ranks as the Cape's most exciting wine-producing district.
Settled initially by nomadic Khoikhoi from Namibia, the Dutch brought trade and vines to the region in the 17th century. Viticulture was developed only more recently.This contrasts with an ancient geology which has brought a mix of shale, arenite sandstone and granite soils air-conditioned by the Atlantic Ocean nearby.
Chenin Blanc and Shiraz seem to do best, as exemplified by the wines of Eben Sadie and Mullineux.
Syrah/Shiraz
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2023 Syrah Swartland comes from 25% granite soils and 75% on schist/shale soils, with a submerged cap used for the latter and normal pump-overs on the former. This is more backward and almost surly on the nose compared to the more expressive Stellenbosch Syrah, displaying darker fruit and a little tar and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery, bordering on gritty tannins. Wuite is linear and structured in style with a Cornas-inspired finish, leaving a dash of black pepper and black olive tapenade to linger on the aftertaste. Very classy.
Drink 2026 - 2040
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (September 2024)
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