Hermitage
The most famous of all the northern Rhône appellations, its 120 hectares produce tiny quantities of very long-lived reds. The vines were grown in Roman times, although local folklore claims their origins to be 600 years earlier. The wines are powerful, with a deep colour and firm tannins, and the potential to age for many decades. The best Hermitage is produced from several climats blended together.
Hermitage is the most famous of all the northern Rhône appellations. The hill of Hermitage is situated above the town of Tain and overlooks the town of Tournon, just across the river. Hermitage has 120 hectares and produces tiny quantities of very long-lived reds.
The vines were grown in Roman times, although local folklore claims their origins to be nearly 600 years earlier. The name ‘Hermitage’ first appeared in the 16th century, derived from a legend of the 13th century Crusade, involving a wounded knight called Gaspard de Stérimberg, who made refuge on the hill, planted vines and became a hermit.During the 17th century Hermitage was recognised as one of the finest in Europe. In 1775, Ch. Lafite was blended with Hermitage and was one of the greatest wines of its day. In the late 19th century, however, Phylloxera wiped out all the vineyards.
The wines are powerful, with a deep colour and firm tannins, developing into some of the finest examples in France, with the potential to age for many decades. The best Hermitage is produced from several climats or more, blended together. The main climats are Les Bessards, Le Meal, L’Hermite, Les Greffieux and Les Diognieres. Most of the finest climats face broadly south, giving maximum sunshine. Most growers only have one or two climats and they might not complement each other; Hermitage quality can therefore vary hugely. Only the top producers have extensive diversified holdings.
Eighty percent of the wine produced is red, however up to 15 percent of white grapes can be used in the blend. Most growers use 100 percent Syrah and utilise the white grapes to make white wines only. Chapoutier, Jaboulet and Tain l’Hermitage Co-operative are the principle proprietors of the appellation’s vineyards.
The white wines are made from the Marsanne and Roussanne grapes. Great white Hermitage has the ability to age, taking on the fruit characters of apricots and peaches, often giving a very nutty finish. The best examples in great vintages can last 50 years.
Mature red Hermitage can be confused with old Bordeaux. In a blind tasting of 1961 First Growth Clarets, the famous 1961 Hermitage La Chapelle was included. Most people, including its owner, Gerard Jaboulet, mistook it for Ch. Margaux.
Recommended producers: Chave, Jaboulet, Chapoutier, Ferraton, Colombier
Best vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004, 2001, 1999, 1997, 1991, 1990, 1985
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Ready, but will improve,
Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. But beyond the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.
This poetically named white is made from Marsanne vines located primarily in the eastern sector of Hermitage, where there is more alluvium in the soil. The 2013 sings a very pleasing tune, with a fine aromatic descant and a chorus of approval from those who enjoy the enigmatic characteristics of this underrated variety.
Always a serious value, the 2013 Hermitage Chante Alouette shows the focused, pure and mineral-laced style of the vintage, yet still packs plenty of fruit. Giving up ample tangerine, buttered citrus, almond and mineral-water qualities, it's medium to full-bodied, has excellent richness and a beautifully balanced, pure, clean feel. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
This poetically named white is made from Marsanne vines located primarily in the eastern sector of Hermitage, where there is more alluvium in the soil. The 2013 sings a very pleasing tune, with a fine aromatic descant and a chorus of approval from those who enjoy the enigmatic characteristics of this underrated variety.
Always a serious value, the 2013 Hermitage Chante Alouette shows the focused, pure and mineral-laced style of the vintage, yet still packs plenty of fruit. Giving up ample tangerine, buttered citrus, almond and mineral-water qualities, it's medium to full-bodied, has excellent richness and a beautifully balanced, pure, clean feel. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
The blend here is 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne, both vinified separately and then aged for 10 months in new oak. Only eight casks of this gem were made, alas. Youthful vanillin notes cede to brioche, hazelnuts and hints of melon. The finish is generous and complex, all in all most promising.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
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Ready, but will improve,
Our 2012 Rhône Vintage Recommendation: Best-value Northern Rhône Red
Great class and detail on the nose. Very good balance on the palate: an easy-drinking style of Hermitage, poised and elegant, crisp and fine, good length and concentration. This will drink young and give great pleasure in its first 10 to 12 years of life.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager
The depth of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill of Hermitage is underlined by the fact that their so-called work-horse blend, another long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, is so extraordinarily good. The essence of fine Hermitage, the wine opens up with a great smoky flourish, its dark fruit stoking its engine of potential.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Our brief encounter with Michel Chapoutier this year took on an element of farce, French farce you might say, although it took place in the Hermitage vineyards rather than in a well-upholstered Parisan salon. Michel was inspecting the vines with an appropriately deferential team of winemakers and we were hoping to interview and photograph him. The closer we got, the further away he seemed to be. This chimerical liaison reflects both the surprisingly undulating topography of Hermitage and the unsurprisingly elusive nature of the man himself. Of course when we finally caught up with him, he was charm itself. As are his outstanding range of 2012s.
Great class and detail on the nose. Very good balance on the palate: an easy-drinking style of Hermitage, poised and elegant, crisp and fine, good length and concentration. This will drink young and give great pleasure in its first 10 to 12 years of life.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager
The depth of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill of Hermitage is underlined by the fact that their so-called work-horse blend, another long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, is so extraordinarily good. The essence of fine Hermitage, the wine opens up with a great smoky flourish, its dark fruit stoking its engine of potential.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Our brief encounter with Michel Chapoutier this year took on an element of farce, French farce you might say, although it took place in the Hermitage vineyards rather than in a well-upholstered Parisan salon. Michel was inspecting the vines with an appropriately deferential team of winemakers and we were hoping to interview and photograph him. The closer we got, the further away he seemed to be. This chimerical liaison reflects both the surprisingly undulating topography of Hermitage and the unsurprisingly elusive nature of the man himself. Of course when we finally caught up with him, he was charm itself. As are his outstanding range of 2012s.
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For laying down,
A blend from two communes; the alluvial Dionnières and the pebbly Méal, this wine has been treated to an extended maceration (over four weeks) then 14 months in barrel. Notes of blueberry and crème de cassis dominate this powerful and fleshy wine; profound in texture and profoundly satisfying.
Simon Field MW - Buyer
Simon Field MW - Buyer
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
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Drink now,
A parcel of 40-year-old Syrah, much-loved by Michel Ferraton, the Dionnières is an expressive and finelyconstructed wine. Still very young, its inherent complexity is clear with notes of licorice, dried fruits and black cherry. The impressive weight of fruit and the power of the tannins indicate this is a wine for the long term. Drink 2014-2020.
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Ready, but will improve,
A parcel of 40-year-old Syrah, much loved by Michel Ferraton, the Dionnières is an expressive and finely constructed wine. Its inherent complexity is evidenced in youth by notes of liquorice, dried fruits and black cherry whilst its potential for development is writ large in the weight of the fruit and the power of the tannins. In short, this is a benchmark Hermitage, dense but not overweight, and thus perfectly suited for mid-term ageing.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
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The destemmed fruit will have had 14 months in wood for the 2013s, a little less than some years, but intended to underline the elegance of the vintage, which in the case of this wine, is captured by floral, almost red-fruit, aromatics and a finely textured mouthful. A classic example from a lower-lying vineyard, but one with its own distinct and rather beguiling personality.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Possessing more minerality, the 2013 Hermitage les Dionnieres Estate has ample crushed rock, smoke, licorice, bouquet garni and sweet dark fruit-like aromas and flavors. A medium to full-bodied, structured Hermitage, it has solid mid-palate depth and building tannin, all suggesting it will evolve nicely. Give it 3-4 years and drink bottles through 2033.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Possessing more minerality, the 2013 Hermitage les Dionnieres Estate has ample crushed rock, smoke, licorice, bouquet garni and sweet dark fruit-like aromas and flavors. A medium to full-bodied, structured Hermitage, it has solid mid-palate depth and building tannin, all suggesting it will evolve nicely. Give it 3-4 years and drink bottles through 2033.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Ready, but will improve,
18 months of ageing after an extended maceration for this superb cuvée, the source of its fruit being some of the best addresses on the west side of the granitic slab known as the hill of hermitage. Powerful restraint, stone-silent potential and elegant understatement.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicolas Jaboulet as the master of ceremonies, has promise indeed, but promise is worth little if the raw materials (in this case the vineyards), are not from the top rank. We have little to fear on this count, especially when it comes to Hermitage itself where, unsurprisingly, the Jaboulet influence has been brought to bear with exceptional results.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicolas Jaboulet as the master of ceremonies, has promise indeed, but promise is worth little if the raw materials (in this case the vineyards), are not from the top rank. We have little to fear on this count, especially when it comes to Hermitage itself where, unsurprisingly, the Jaboulet influence has been brought to bear with exceptional results.
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For laying down,
The triptych of Les Greffieux (30%), Les Grandes Vignes (60%) and Les Murets (10%) frame this Hermitage, its soils sharing pebbles, granite and clay; a bit of everything in other words. The wine is suitably complex, its full colour belying youthful reticence on the palate. The wine’s linearity and weight on the finish underline quality and potential, however.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
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£55.00
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£594.00
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For laying down,
Honours are shared here between the Marsanne and the Roussanne, not forgetting the winemaker Damien Brisset, who has got it just about right with the oak. The nose is spicy and recalls poached pear, Mirabel plum and hints of toast. The Marsanne lends support to the palate, gently oily but far from oleaginous and softly spicy. Flamboyance courtesy of the Roussanne adds rondeur and a whisper of exoticism; Gauguin in the afternoon.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
The 2014 vintage left the blocks with great speed, energised by a rainy winter which had topped up water reserves, and then by a dry and exceptionally mild spring. The pace calmed down thereafter, and thoughts of precocity eventually gave way to a relatively late harvest. Challenges were imposed by a mid-season which was by turns rainy and unseasonably cool, with rot a far from negligible danger and the somewhat unusual prospect of September being the warmest month of the year.
Not quite an Indian Summer, in point of fact, but warm enough to ensure timely ripening and a dry harvest. The whites have poise and finely etched fruit and the reds are balanced and approachable. Winemaker Damien Brisset, whilst acknowledging the challenges of the vintage, is more than pleased with the results. Careful to avoid over-extraction, he has allowed each commune and each lieu-dit to impose its personality on its wines and the results are impressive indeed.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
The 2014 vintage left the blocks with great speed, energised by a rainy winter which had topped up water reserves, and then by a dry and exceptionally mild spring. The pace calmed down thereafter, and thoughts of precocity eventually gave way to a relatively late harvest. Challenges were imposed by a mid-season which was by turns rainy and unseasonably cool, with rot a far from negligible danger and the somewhat unusual prospect of September being the warmest month of the year.
Not quite an Indian Summer, in point of fact, but warm enough to ensure timely ripening and a dry harvest. The whites have poise and finely etched fruit and the reds are balanced and approachable. Winemaker Damien Brisset, whilst acknowledging the challenges of the vintage, is more than pleased with the results. Careful to avoid over-extraction, he has allowed each commune and each lieu-dit to impose its personality on its wines and the results are impressive indeed.
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Ready, but will keep,
Florent and David Viale continue to make “go-to” wines, their attractive winery well located beneath the western side of the hill of Hermitage and their Crozes sourced on the more gentle slopes of Tain and Mercurol. Their holdings in Hermitage are modest at two hectares, but that’s two hectares more than many of their neighbours and they are suitably deferential to the vines in question.
Ripe yet elegant, expressive yet harmonious, this is especially impressive at the back of the palate where the velvety tannins luxuriate. Drink now to 2018.
Ripe yet elegant, expressive yet harmonious, this is especially impressive at the back of the palate where the velvety tannins luxuriate. Drink now to 2018.
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For laying down,
The Hermitage has rather good pedigree, assembled as it is from plots in Beaume, Diognières and Péléat, all on the eastern side of the hill, closer to the winery and engendering wines which are closer, stylistically, to the Crozes, but with additional smoky-bacon complexity and finely-threaded tannins from the extra ageing, virtually all of which is in demi-muids, 20% of which are new.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Florent and David Viale continue to make ‘go-to’ wines, their attractive winery well located beneath the western side of the hill of Hermitage and their Crozes sourced on the more gentle slopes of Tain and Mercurol. Their holdings in Hermitage are modest at 2 hectares, but that’s two hectares more than many of their neighbours and they are suitably deferential to the vines in question. Florent advises that 2012 was a ‘very pleasant revelation at the assemblage stage’ and ranks it highly
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Florent and David Viale continue to make ‘go-to’ wines, their attractive winery well located beneath the western side of the hill of Hermitage and their Crozes sourced on the more gentle slopes of Tain and Mercurol. Their holdings in Hermitage are modest at 2 hectares, but that’s two hectares more than many of their neighbours and they are suitably deferential to the vines in question. Florent advises that 2012 was a ‘very pleasant revelation at the assemblage stage’ and ranks it highly
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For laying down,
The lower Greffieux fruit adds an approachable twist to the Calvinist solidity of the Bessards grapes. Their blend is therefore a marriage of opposites and has worked well in 2014, each of the equal shareholders taming the inclination of the other, one indulgent and amorphous, the other ascetic and rather unforgiving, with a pleasing flourish of fruit and Hermitage panache.
Drink 2018-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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For laying down,
If Les Miaux is quite a glossy, almost showy wine, Les Dionnières is more classic and therefore a little more restrained in youth….but most certainly not without character. Spice, bacon rind, licorice and sousbois dominate the nose; then the palate is powerful and long...in short a benchmark Hermitage, dense but not overweight, honest and giving. I like the hints of aniseed and licorice in the 2010.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
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For laying down,
Child of two parcels (Beaumes and Le Méal) Le Reverdy is a 50-50 blend of Roussanne and Marsanne, fermented and aged in barrels, some larger than others, mostly two or three years old. The nose recalls nectarine, beeswax and hints of cinnamon. The palate is equally complex, with Marsanne’s textured calling card presaging a lengthy, fascinating evolution.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
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Ready, but will improve,
M. Sorrel’s legendary reticence was somewhat compromised during my November visit by diluvium weather, a good deal of which was penetrating his cave in the centre of Tain l’Hermitage. Once sang froid had been restored, he was far from immodest in his praise for 2012, a small but excellent year, not unlike 2010 in his opinion, and far less astringent than 2009. Also in his opinion.
Those familiar with Tain l’Hermitage railway station will have found distraction from its otherwise prosaic amenities in the tapestry of vineyards stretching up towards the famous chapel. Right behind platform one (or is it two?) is the Plantier vineyard, the fruits of which make up 80 percent of the Classique Cuvée, the balance coming from Bessards and Gréffieux. 20 months of up-bringing, to be followed by bottling without fining or filtration. Very pure red fruit is complemented by hints of clove, cinnamon and black pepper.
Those familiar with Tain l’Hermitage railway station will have found distraction from its otherwise prosaic amenities in the tapestry of vineyards stretching up towards the famous chapel. Right behind platform one (or is it two?) is the Plantier vineyard, the fruits of which make up 80 percent of the Classique Cuvée, the balance coming from Bessards and Gréffieux. 20 months of up-bringing, to be followed by bottling without fining or filtration. Very pure red fruit is complemented by hints of clove, cinnamon and black pepper.
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£65.00
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£702.00
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Ready, but will improve,
There is a school of thought which, quite reasonably, worries that there are so many cuvées being made by Michel in Hermitage that this famous name may be in some way compromised. This is both to under-estimate the overall quality of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill and also to misunderstand the fact that this, alone, is the blended Hermitage cuvée, and therefore still has its own very special place in the Chapoutier canon. The 2013 proves this rather eloquently; ripe, seductive raspberry flavours with classic notes of gibier and sousbois, very firm but ripe tannins and a strong finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.
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£65.00
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£702.00
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Ready, but will improve,
The nose is full of quince, honey, honeysuckle and rose petal. The palate reveals layer upon layer of concentration, however there’s a steely backbone which keeps everything fresh without detracting from the richness of the wine. Sorrel is a master of his art and drinking a bottle of his wine is akin to holding Monet’s lilies in your hands as the Parisian rain washes them away.
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying
M. Sorrel’s legendary reticence was somewhat compromised during my November visit by diluvium weather, a good deal of which was penetrating his Cave in the centre of Tain l’Hermitage. Once ‘sang froid’ had been restored, he was far from immodest in his praise for 2012, a small but excellent year, not unlike 2010 in his opinion, and far less astringent than 2009. Also in his opinion.
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying
M. Sorrel’s legendary reticence was somewhat compromised during my November visit by diluvium weather, a good deal of which was penetrating his Cave in the centre of Tain l’Hermitage. Once ‘sang froid’ had been restored, he was far from immodest in his praise for 2012, a small but excellent year, not unlike 2010 in his opinion, and far less astringent than 2009. Also in his opinion.
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£65.00
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£702.00
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£279.48
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For laying down,
The Bessards Méal cuvée is more granitic in style and outlook than its rather more playful sibling. The salty minerality and complex herbal subplots both invigorate what is already an extremely engaging narrative. Dark fruit and grip hold sway here as they will do for some time, as one would expect from a traditional and very serious Hermitage.
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Ready, but will keep,
Samuel Ferraton, the fourth generation of the family at this domaine, is very much an artisan winemaker – yet he employs many modern techniques that he picked up while working with the Chapoutiers. Consequently, the wines are a marvellous marriage of the old and the new, displaying good structure and well-defined fruit characters, allied with very judicious and limited use of new oak.
This is a real gem and a very fine expression of all that Le Méal is celebrated for, namely harmony, elegance and balance, promising a lengthy evolution for this pedigree example. Drink now to 2022.
This is a real gem and a very fine expression of all that Le Méal is celebrated for, namely harmony, elegance and balance, promising a lengthy evolution for this pedigree example. Drink now to 2022.
Bottle
£66.40
Case price (6)
£358.50
Saving
£39.90
Bottle 6 x 75cl20cs
£285.72
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Ready, but will improve,
From 35-year-old vines, mainly lower on the hillside (Les Plantiers is located just behind the railway station for those who know Tain) but with 10 percent from Bessards and Greffieux, this one is fermented in stainless steel and brought up in older barrels. The wine is dense yet supple, fruity yet restrained, tannic yet ethereal; in other words a classic Hermitage paradox, its potential evidenced only in its apparent accessibility.
Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£70.00
Case price (6)
£378.00
Saving
£42.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
£301.98
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For laying down,
Le Méal is in a slight dip on the hill and has a little more limestone in its profile, although granite still dominates as it always does in Hermitage. Damien ferments this in concrete tank, which allows what he describes as a ‘better thermic inertia’, whatever that may mean. It seems to have worked, however, as the wine, even in youth, is feminine and silky, its power latent, panther-like and poised.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Bottle
£70.00
Case price (6)
£378.00
Saving
£42.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl44cs
£301.98
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Ready, but will improve,
On tasting this last November one felt that it was sulking. M Sorrel agreed, with a gentle shrug, and advised that this was not necessarily a bad sign. Sure enough, the next encounter, in February, was a much happier affair. Beneath the still somewhat inscrutable exterior there is a fruit profile which recalls damson, plum and myrtle with whispers of cinnamon and black pepper. The majority of the vines are located just behind the railway station at Tain, therefore on the lower slope.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Bottle
£70.00
Case price (6)
£378.00
Saving
£42.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl12cs
£301.98
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Ready, but will improve,
There is more clay in the soils of the Greffieux vines, which has proved felicitous for this 100 percent Marsanne cuvée in 2013. The fruits of these 25-yearold vines spend 14 months in barrel; the wine is oily without being oleaginous, waxy without being astringent and fulsome without being heavy.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Moving to the Hermitage releases, there's roughly 900 bottles of the 2013 Hermitage Blanc. Made from 100% Marsanne and all from the Greffieux lieu-dit (which is known for high quality whites), it's aged in 3-4 year old barrels. Ripe, textured, medium to full-bodied and borderline voluptuous, it gives up lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and mineral qualities. It should drink nicely no release, but evolve gracefully as well.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Moving to the Hermitage releases, there's roughly 900 bottles of the 2013 Hermitage Blanc. Made from 100% Marsanne and all from the Greffieux lieu-dit (which is known for high quality whites), it's aged in 3-4 year old barrels. Ripe, textured, medium to full-bodied and borderline voluptuous, it gives up lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and mineral qualities. It should drink nicely no release, but evolve gracefully as well.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Bottle
£70.00
Case price (6)
£378.00
Saving
£42.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl3cs
£301.98
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For laying down,
Gréal is a linguistic amalgam of Méal and Greffieux, admittedly owing more to the former than the latter, in letters as in grapes. In addition to the 60-year-old Syrah, there is a small plot of old Marsanne in one corner of the Méal vineyard, which makes up 7% of the final blend. Firm tannins combine with elegant, balancing acidity, dark dense fruit and hints of cooked meat. All this promises a long and very satisfactory evolution.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Monsieur Sorrel compares 2011 to 2000 and advises that it has produced the highest crop since 2001. The modestly temperate and relatively lengthy growing season has produced wines of real clarity and definition, highlighting the personalities of the individual vineyards involved. He is especially proud of the wines from Crozes, for which he has hitherto been less famous.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Monsieur Sorrel compares 2011 to 2000 and advises that it has produced the highest crop since 2001. The modestly temperate and relatively lengthy growing season has produced wines of real clarity and definition, highlighting the personalities of the individual vineyards involved. He is especially proud of the wines from Crozes, for which he has hitherto been less famous.
Bottle
£95.00
Case price (6)
£513.00
Saving
£57.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl4cs
£414.48
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
£410.00
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For laying down,
As usual a linguistic amalgam of provenance (90 percent Méal and 10 percent Greffieux), Le Gréal is matured in eight middle-aged barrels. The grapes were fermented as vendanges entières adding structure and acidity to the welcoming flavours of griotte cherry and crushed raspberry.
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£100.00
Case price (6)
£540.00
Saving
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl5cs
£436.98
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For laying down,
Les Rocoules has more calcerous soils than its junior sibling; it is the fruit of older vines and contains eight percent Roussanne in the blend. The wine is bottled unfiltered and glories in complexity and ageing potential; pear skin, lanolin and a hint of hazelnut inform the palate. M Sorrel, modestly in all probability, recommends holding onto it for 10 years.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Bottle
£100.00
Case price (6)
£540.00
Saving
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl5cs
£436.98
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For laying down,
The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.
Bottle
£100.00
Case price (6)
£540.00
Saving
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl25cs
£436.98
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Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicolas Jaboulet as the master of ceremonies, has promise indeed, but promise is worth little if the raw materials (in this case the vineyards), are not from the top rank. We have little to fear on this count, especially when it comes to Hermitage itself where, unsurprisingly, the Jaboulet influence has been brought to bear with exceptional results.