Hermitage

On tasting this last November one felt that it was sulking. M Sorrel agreed, with a gentle shrug, and advised that this was not necessarily a bad sign. Sure enough, the next encounter, in February, was a much happier affair. Beneath the still somewhat inscrutable exterior there is a fruit profile which recalls damson, plum and myrtle with whispers of cinnamon and black pepper. The majority of the vines are located just behind the railway station at Tain, therefore on the lower slope.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.


A solid step up over the Crozes Hermitage, the 2013 Hermitage is a classic, classy effort that exhibits quality notes of pepper, iron, wet rock and sweet dark fruits. It has medium-bodied richness, bright acidity and firm tannin, all suggesting short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Le Méal is one of the better known parcels on the famous hill of Hermitage, its reputation being for wines of great power and elegance, the former taking 50% of new barrique ageing in its stride, the latter adding a typically silky mouth-feel to the cornucopia of red and black fruit. The 2014 is dense and richly extracted, with notes of leather and violet both evidenced and a whiff of a distant bonfire indulging us with gentle nostalgia.
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer


The 2014 vintage left the blocks with great speed, energised by a rainy winter which had topped up water reserves, and then by a dry and exceptionally mild spring. The pace calmed down thereafter, and thoughts of precocity eventually gave way to a relatively late harvest. Challenges were imposed by a mid-season which was by turns rainy and unseasonably cool, with rot a far from negligible danger and the somewhat unusual prospect of September being the warmest month of the year.

Not quite an Indian Summer, in point of fact, but warm enough to ensure timely ripening and a dry harvest. The whites have poise and finely etched fruit and the reds are balanced and approachable. Winemaker Damien Brisset, whilst acknowledging the challenges of the vintage, is more than pleased with the results. Careful to avoid over-extraction, he has allowed each commune and each lieu-dit to impose its personality on its wines and the results are impressive indeed.

Jaboulet produces some of the world's greatest wines in the Rhone with Hermitage La Chapelle being its most famous offering. Named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, La Chapelle regularly rivals Bordeaux 1st Growths for its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age. The 1961 is considered by many as the Holy Grail of the wine world with the 1978 not far behind. 

For many years Jaboulet was run by Gérard Jaboulet, who was one of the great ambassadors for Rhône wines, tirelessly travelling the world and promoting the virtues of Hermitage. He died suddenly in 1997 and the firm was then run by Philippe & Jacques Jaboulet, until 2006 when the real estate entrepreneur Jean- Jacques Frey purchased the company.

The Frey family has large holdings in the Champagne house Billecart-Salmon and also owns Château La Lagune in Bordeaux so their credentials for taking over this illustrious estate could hardly be better.  Jacques and Nicolas Frey are now involved in the day-to-day running of Maison Jaboulet, while Caroline Frey, the eldest daughter, is at the helm of the wine-making team that also draws on the expertise of well-known wine consultant Denis Dubordieu. Under Caroline’s leadership, in 2006, the vineyards earned Sustainable Farming status and winegrowing is on course for conversion to biodynamic certification.

La Chapelle is a blend of four of the best vineyards within the Hermitage appellation - Les Bessards, Les Greffieux, Le Méal and Les Rocoules. It is the richness of these different terroirs along with the 40-60 year old vines that provides La Chapelle with the complexity and depths that have made it one of the most sought after wines of the Rhone. 

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The nose of this fully developed but still richly coloured wine is extremely enticing, the overall feeling is one of soft, very ripe Autumnal fruits – baked plums, damsons with a touch of rich and earthy roasted beetroots. There is even a suggestion of rather old fashioned mature Pauillac fruit, with similarly comforting notes of polished sweet oak. The palate has so many layers to it, it is fascinating – this is not to glug and swill rather to enjoy and savour. There is still tremendous energy to this wine, which now at age 19 is quite unusual, owing to the vibrant acidity which keeps the finish lively and really on its toes.   This is unquestionably for drinking now and over the coming year to 18 months; it is the epitome of well-aged and mature Hermitage which is a perfect match for Pheasant, Boar or any game dish.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager
Hermitage La Chapelle is named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, the wine regularly amazes with its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age.  This is a wine that is ready to drink and will compliment any Autumnal or Winter fare very well.

A rustic bouquet with dried cranberries and redcurrants, sous bois, tobacco leaf, tanned saddle leather and spice.  A gentle brush of dark red fruit at the front palate, leading to a lifted mineral acidity and finely intertwined tannin.  A charming and gentle style of Hermitage from Jaboulet Aine, with nineteen years already in the bank, this is an elegant “traditional” style of Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now and maybe keep another 1 – 2 years.”
Stuart Rae, Private Account Manager

1996 La Chapelle is a classic example of mature Syrah, garnet in colour with delicate aromas of wild mushroom, stewed fruit and a slight earthiness. The palate is softly textured, with very fine tannins and a high acidity which carries the savoury gamey notes through to the finish. Great for drinking now, as it is expected to arrive in November, I could think of nothing better than enjoying with some roasted game over the festive period. It will hold on for another year, but will not get any better.
Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager

Les Beaumes was muscular, round, rich and substantial. Very long-term wine with lots of chew yet with sap, power and roundness. Péléat was pure, transparent pepper. Sweet, easy, lifted and transparently nervy. Méal (14%) was particularly dark ruby with sinews, structure and masses of tannin. L'Hermite, usually the last to be picked, was extremely complex on the nose as well as being particularly big and beefy yet had admirable freshness. Bessards JL Chave regards as perhaps the most typical of Hermitage – very powerful with a dry finish and an admirable spine.
Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com