Hermitage

There is a school of thought which, quite reasonably, worries that there are so many cuvées being made by Michel in Hermitage that this famous name may be in some way compromised. This is both to under-estimate the overall quality of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill and also to misunderstand the fact that this, alone, is the blended Hermitage cuvée, and therefore still has its own very special place in the Chapoutier canon. The 2013 proves this rather eloquently; ripe, seductive raspberry flavours with classic notes of gibier and sousbois, very firm but ripe tannins and a strong finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.

A grippy, mouthwatering style offering solid, briary tannins inlaid with finely beaded acidity, all of which melds into the core of anise, blackberry paste and fig sauce favors. Shows terrific energy on the singed apple wood finish. Should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2016 through 2030.
James Molesworth - Wine Spectator, 15th November 2015

Lastly, the 2013 Hermitage le Meal is the darkest colored of the Hermitage releases and exhibits smoking notes of tar and melted asphalt, crushed rock, leather and smoked dark fruits. It's a big, full-bodied, chewy effort that stays fresh, balanced and pure. It's another beautiful wine from this estate that will have 20-25 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Le Méal is in a slight dip on the hill and has a little more limestone in its profile, although granite still dominates as it always does in Hermitage. Damien ferments this in concrete tank, which allows what he describes as a ‘better thermic inertia’, whatever that may mean. It seems to have worked, however, as the wine, even in youth, is feminine and silky, its power latent, panther-like and poised.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.

Jaboulet produces some of the world's greatest wines in the Rhone with Hermitage La Chapelle being its most famous offering. Named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, La Chapelle regularly rivals Bordeaux 1st Growths for its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age. The 1961 is considered by many as the Holy Grail of the wine world with the 1978 not far behind. 

For many years Jaboulet was run by Gérard Jaboulet, who was one of the great ambassadors for Rhône wines, tirelessly travelling the world and promoting the virtues of Hermitage. He died suddenly in 1997 and the firm was then run by Philippe & Jacques Jaboulet, until 2006 when the real estate entrepreneur Jean- Jacques Frey purchased the company.

The Frey family has large holdings in the Champagne house Billecart-Salmon and also owns Château La Lagune in Bordeaux so their credentials for taking over this illustrious estate could hardly be better.  Jacques and Nicolas Frey are now involved in the day-to-day running of Maison Jaboulet, while Caroline Frey, the eldest daughter, is at the helm of the wine-making team that also draws on the expertise of well-known wine consultant Denis Dubordieu. Under Caroline’s leadership, in 2006, the vineyards earned Sustainable Farming status and winegrowing is on course for conversion to biodynamic certification.

La Chapelle is a blend of four of the best vineyards within the Hermitage appellation - Les Bessards, Les Greffieux, Le Méal and Les Rocoules. It is the richness of these different terroirs along with the 40-60 year old vines that provides La Chapelle with the complexity and depths that have made it one of the most sought after wines of the Rhone. 

Beneath the famous chapel, but still part of the solid granite Bessards commune, the Pavillon is so-named in reference to the ruins of an old stone house. The wine is dense, sinewy and long, with distinctive black cherry fruit, liquorice and cigar box evidenced. Twenty percent new oak is worn with nonchalance, but adds subtle texture to the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. Moving to the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon, it has terrific depth, density and concentration to go with layers of crème de cassis, Asian spice, toasted bread, licorice and the essence of granite-induced minerality. While this vintage produced more fresh, firm wines, this has a generosity and sexiness that defines the stereotype. Nevertheless, I suspect short-term cellaring will be required for it to be approachable, and it will have a long life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

The nose of this fully developed but still richly coloured wine is extremely enticing, the overall feeling is one of soft, very ripe Autumnal fruits – baked plums, damsons with a touch of rich and earthy roasted beetroots. There is even a suggestion of rather old fashioned mature Pauillac fruit, with similarly comforting notes of polished sweet oak. The palate has so many layers to it, it is fascinating – this is not to glug and swill rather to enjoy and savour. There is still tremendous energy to this wine, which now at age 19 is quite unusual, owing to the vibrant acidity which keeps the finish lively and really on its toes.   This is unquestionably for drinking now and over the coming year to 18 months; it is the epitome of well-aged and mature Hermitage which is a perfect match for Pheasant, Boar or any game dish.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager
Hermitage La Chapelle is named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, the wine regularly amazes with its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age.  This is a wine that is ready to drink and will compliment any Autumnal or Winter fare very well.

A rustic bouquet with dried cranberries and redcurrants, sous bois, tobacco leaf, tanned saddle leather and spice.  A gentle brush of dark red fruit at the front palate, leading to a lifted mineral acidity and finely intertwined tannin.  A charming and gentle style of Hermitage from Jaboulet Aine, with nineteen years already in the bank, this is an elegant “traditional” style of Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now and maybe keep another 1 – 2 years.”
Stuart Rae, Private Account Manager

1996 La Chapelle is a classic example of mature Syrah, garnet in colour with delicate aromas of wild mushroom, stewed fruit and a slight earthiness. The palate is softly textured, with very fine tannins and a high acidity which carries the savoury gamey notes through to the finish. Great for drinking now, as it is expected to arrive in November, I could think of nothing better than enjoying with some roasted game over the festive period. It will hold on for another year, but will not get any better.
Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager

Les Beaumes was muscular, round, rich and substantial. Very long-term wine with lots of chew yet with sap, power and roundness. Péléat was pure, transparent pepper. Sweet, easy, lifted and transparently nervy. Méal (14%) was particularly dark ruby with sinews, structure and masses of tannin. L'Hermite, usually the last to be picked, was extremely complex on the nose as well as being particularly big and beefy yet had admirable freshness. Bessards JL Chave regards as perhaps the most typical of Hermitage – very powerful with a dry finish and an admirable spine.
Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com 

Bernard vinifies his grapes by each individual parcel of vines and describes his final blend in terms of a ‘cosmic union’; something seemingly more complicated and intangible than mere biodynamism. Grapes from the Bessards commune lend support and acidity whilst those from the Greffieux commune provide a winning purity of fruit. The 2012 has notes of cassis and black cherry with a gently smoky backdrop.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Bernard Faurie is a fairly conservative vigneron. In all probability he has done the same thing for the last fifty years, and watched with wry amusement as his more adventurous neighbours have experimented and invested, only, eventually, to return to their starting place. And not necessarily to know the place for the first time. M Faurie is Emmanuel Darnaud’s father –in-law, and has, I suspect, guided the young enquiring mind with subtle  skill. Owning some of the best plots in Hermitage has certainly helped his cause.

Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
This fully biodynamic domaine, continues to impress under the care of dynamic vigernon Michel Chapoutier. A nose of dense, sweet fruit proceeds a real freshness on the palate. Power coupled with elegance, full bodied with lovely purity, fine tannin and a long finish.
(Martyn Rolph, BBR Fine Wine) Originating in the vineyards of Méal, Bessards and Greffieux, Sizeranne holds its head up high in the extended Chapoutier catalogue because it is made in a different style, for relatively early drinking; its silky tannins diligently woven together, with a spicy, rich and fine tannic weave.
(Simon Field MW BBR Buyer)

The alliance of two of the greatest houses of the Rhône, Jaboulet and Perrin, with Nicholas Jaboulet at its helm, was always a very promising one. The promise has quickly materialised and the 2010s are even better than the already excellent 2009s. The best sites and the best growers have been harnessed. As Nicolas eloquently puts it, the Perrins at Beaucastel exploit many different grapes on fundamentally the same terroir, but his goal here is to cultivate what is essentially the same grape (albeit dependent on the colour of the wine) but in differing terroirs

This is a very exciting Hermitage, traditional and faithful to this very “proper” vintage in its constitution, but with a classic lifted Syrah character which adds a certain ethereal magic. The stuff of the legendary Hermitages of yore…

South-east facing alluvial soils often make L’Orée the most steely and linear of the whites; the 2012 demonstrates this with gusto, its notes of thyme on the nose and fennel on the palate underlining once more the boundless complexity of this sometimes misunderstood varietal.Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Surely the most lauded vinous portfolio in the Rhône, the Parcellaires make up a definitive statement of terroir, the majority of which is located in the tiny appellation of Hermitage. Volumes are appropriately modest.

Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
Classic and powerful, Le Méal is Ferraton’s flagship red, its 50 year-old vines located on the south-facing slopes of this famous vineyard. The 2009 does not disappoint with its full structure finely corseted after 18 months in 50% new oak barriques. Layered and textured, this is a keeper from the first rank.
(Simon Field MW BBR Buyer) The mid slope vineyard of Le Meal has a warm aspect on granite with limestone, white clay and large pebbles giving a fragrant and powerful wine. In the glass the wine is absolutely opaque in colour. The opulent dark fruit and sweet kirch notes are balanced by a mouthcoating tannic structure that will reward those who have the patience to age this wine.
(Sara Guiducci, BBR Fine Wine)