Hermitage

The Hermitage has rather good pedigree, assembled as it is from plots in Beaume, Diognières and Péléat, all on the eastern side of the hill, closer to the winery and engendering wines which are closer, stylistically, to the Crozes, but with additional smoky-bacon complexity and finely-threaded tannins from the extra ageing, virtually all of which is in demi-muids, 20% of which are new.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Florent and David Viale continue to make ‘go-to’ wines, their attractive winery well located beneath the western side of the hill of Hermitage and their Crozes sourced on the more gentle slopes of Tain and Mercurol. Their holdings in Hermitage are modest at 2 hectares, but that’s two hectares more than many of their neighbours and they are suitably deferential to the vines in question.  Florent advises that 2012 was a ‘very pleasant revelation at the assemblage stage’ and ranks it highly

The lower Greffieux fruit adds an approachable twist to the Calvinist solidity of the Bessards grapes. Their blend is therefore a marriage of opposites and has worked well in 2014, each of the equal shareholders taming the inclination of the other, one indulgent and amorphous, the other ascetic and rather unforgiving, with a pleasing flourish of fruit and Hermitage panache.
Drink 2018-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

There is a school of thought which, quite reasonably, worries that there are so many cuvées being made by Michel in Hermitage that this famous name may be in some way compromised. This is both to under-estimate the overall quality of the Chapoutier holdings on the hill and also to misunderstand the fact that this, alone, is the blended Hermitage cuvée, and therefore still has its own very special place in the Chapoutier canon. The 2013 proves this rather eloquently; ripe, seductive raspberry flavours with classic notes of gibier and sousbois, very firm but ripe tannins and a strong finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Michel Chapoutier is now the president of Inter-Rhône, which, we suggest, is very good news for Inter-Rhône, such is his energy and appetite for lively debate. The enormous new winery next to the motorway has his name written on the side in such large letters that it is probably visible from the moon, let alone the fast lane of the A7. Beyond the vanity, the classic cars, the helicopters and the bluff exterior, there is an engaging personality, a very capable businessman and, most importantly by far, a superb winemaker.

M. Sorrel’s legendary reticence was somewhat compromised during my November visit by diluvium weather, a good deal of which was penetrating his cave in the centre of Tain l’Hermitage. Once sang froid had been restored, he was far from immodest in his praise for 2012, a small but excellent year, not unlike 2010 in his opinion, and far less astringent than 2009. Also in his opinion.

Those familiar with Tain l’Hermitage railway station will have found distraction from its otherwise prosaic amenities in the tapestry of vineyards stretching up towards the famous chapel. Right behind platform one (or is it two?) is the Plantier vineyard, the fruits of which make up 80 percent of the Classique Cuvée, the balance coming from Bessards and Gréffieux. 20 months of up-bringing, to be followed by bottling without fining or filtration. Very pure red fruit is complemented by hints of clove, cinnamon and black pepper.

The Bessards Méal cuvée is more granitic in style and outlook than its rather more playful sibling. The salty minerality and complex herbal subplots both invigorate what is already an extremely engaging narrative. Dark fruit and grip hold sway here as they will do for some time, as one would expect from a traditional and very serious Hermitage. 
Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

The limestone from the Méal vineyard informs the style this year; that is to say it is feminine, charming, linear and long. It’s a shame that the availability is so short, however, as only eight barrels were made. None of the fruit was destemmed, a fact which is hard to believe sometimes, such is the silky texture of this very fine wine. There is something in the region of eight percent Marsanne in this wine, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman.

From vines of over 50 years of age, the Rocoules Blanc is made up of 90 percent Marsanne and 10 percent Roussanne, vinified traditionally and aged patiently for 18 months in old wood. The 2015 was harvested quite early (4th/5th September) and has attractive aromas that are chalky going on floral, citric going on honeyed – complex, in other words. From the deep colour to the long finish, one cannot fail but to be impressed by the profundity here. As with all great white Hermitage it will go to sleep in a couple of years and re-emerge, resplendent, four or five years later. Drink 2022-2028+
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Many of the Syrah and Marsanne vines which provide fruit for this wine pre-date phylloxera, and are therefore well over a hundred years old. The yields are understandably low for such venerable fruit. It is a powerful and masculine wine; the 2011 may well be less concentrated than the magisterial 2010 but it has an unrivalled complexity, with an encyclopaedic treat of sensations only set to intensify over the next couple of decades.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

These wines sit at the very pinnacle of perfection; year in year out they are applauded as the best in the Rhône Valley. They therefore need no further introductory superlatives from me, merely the tedious reminder that they are very scarce and, needless to say, very much in demand. We only have small volumes of the wines featured below, so I would encourage you to place any orders for these as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

A full, rich, and elegant nose leading on to a palate packed with soft, ripe fruit, good grip, and loads of character. Approachable now but would really benefit from another 5 years or so of bottle ageing.

More closed than its junior siblings in youth, L’Ermite will come round over time with a Montrachet-like self-assurance. The sine qua non of Marsanne, or, quite possibly, of all white wines, this is an outstanding wine, and more than justifies Michel’s often outspoken but seldom unsuccessful quest for perfection.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill Completing a trifecta of perfect whites, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite Blanc is another sensational effort that offers incredible minerality/liquid rock in its pineapple, tangerine, flower oil, mint and caramelized citrus-driven bouquet. Full-bodied and beautiful on the palate, with more tension and focus than the Cuvee de L’Orée or le Meal, it has perfectly balanced richness, structure and freshness, with no hard edges and a blockbuster finish. It won't be accessible for another 3-4 years and will most likely be immortal in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Jaboulet produces some of the world's greatest wines in the Rhone with Hermitage La Chapelle being its most famous offering. Named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, La Chapelle regularly rivals Bordeaux 1st Growths for its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age. The 1961 is considered by many as the Holy Grail of the wine world with the 1978 not far behind. 

For many years Jaboulet was run by Gérard Jaboulet, who was one of the great ambassadors for Rhône wines, tirelessly travelling the world and promoting the virtues of Hermitage. He died suddenly in 1997 and the firm was then run by Philippe & Jacques Jaboulet, until 2006 when the real estate entrepreneur Jean- Jacques Frey purchased the company.

The Frey family has large holdings in the Champagne house Billecart-Salmon and also owns Château La Lagune in Bordeaux so their credentials for taking over this illustrious estate could hardly be better.  Jacques and Nicolas Frey are now involved in the day-to-day running of Maison Jaboulet, while Caroline Frey, the eldest daughter, is at the helm of the wine-making team that also draws on the expertise of well-known wine consultant Denis Dubordieu. Under Caroline’s leadership, in 2006, the vineyards earned Sustainable Farming status and winegrowing is on course for conversion to biodynamic certification.

La Chapelle is a blend of four of the best vineyards within the Hermitage appellation - Les Bessards, Les Greffieux, Le Méal and Les Rocoules. It is the richness of these different terroirs along with the 40-60 year old vines that provides La Chapelle with the complexity and depths that have made it one of the most sought after wines of the Rhone. 

As you climb towards the chapel the soil gets thinner and thinner until all that is left is pure granite; and purity is certainly a key descriptor for L’Ermite in 2013. Parsimonious yields and minimal intervention are responsible for this, the definitive statement of Syrah, a wine that effortlessly combines charm and austerity, simplicity and encyclopaedic complexity, reticence and expansive poetry.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill. The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Hermitage La Chapelle is named after the small hermit's Chapel built in 1235 on the Hermitage hill, the wine regularly amazes with its incredible array of flavours - fruity and enticing when young but acquiring complex leathery and gamey overtones with age.  This is a wine that is ready to drink and will compliment any Autumnal or Winter fare very well.

A rustic bouquet with dried cranberries and redcurrants, sous bois, tobacco leaf, tanned saddle leather and spice.  A gentle brush of dark red fruit at the front palate, leading to a lifted mineral acidity and finely intertwined tannin.  A charming and gentle style of Hermitage from Jaboulet Aine, with nineteen years already in the bank, this is an elegant “traditional” style of Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now and maybe keep another 1 – 2 years.”
Stuart Rae, Private Account Manager

1996 La Chapelle is a classic example of mature Syrah, garnet in colour with delicate aromas of wild mushroom, stewed fruit and a slight earthiness. The palate is softly textured, with very fine tannins and a high acidity which carries the savoury gamey notes through to the finish. Great for drinking now, as it is expected to arrive in November, I could think of nothing better than enjoying with some roasted game over the festive period. It will hold on for another year, but will not get any better.
Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager

The nose of this fully developed but still richly coloured wine is extremely enticing, the overall feeling is one of soft, very ripe Autumnal fruits – baked plums, damsons with a touch of rich and earthy roasted beetroots. There is even a suggestion of rather old fashioned mature Pauillac fruit, with similarly comforting notes of polished sweet oak. The palate has so many layers to it, it is fascinating – this is not to glug and swill rather to enjoy and savour. There is still tremendous energy to this wine, which now at age 19 is quite unusual, owing to the vibrant acidity which keeps the finish lively and really on its toes.   This is unquestionably for drinking now and over the coming year to 18 months; it is the epitome of well-aged and mature Hermitage which is a perfect match for Pheasant, Boar or any game dish.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager