Vacqueyras

Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

A wine of great purity and focus, with red fruits, aniseed and hints – appropriately enough – of the garrigue. The wine is made up of 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah, the age of the Grenache being at least 60 years. The tannins are very fin; the wine rounded and charming, with ripeness finely tempered and nicely managed. Drink 2018 - 2025. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves. 

The vines are grown on eight hectares of archetypal Vacqueyras clay, located on the appellation’s eponymous plateau and near to the domaine itself. Le Clos shows well in 2013, its personality inspiring ‘la concentration délicate’ description, which flirts with contradiction just as the wine manages to combine black fruit power and a gently-tapered, refined finish. Drink 2016 to 2018.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Justine Saurel now works in the winery at Montirius, helping her parents Eric and Christine, and no doubt adding ideas from her winemaking sojourn in New Zealand. Christine describes the wines of 2013 as having ‘la concentration délicate’, which reminds me of the old Mitterand strapline of ‘la force tranquille’; be that as it may, it accurately describes the wines in a year where volumes were low but quality is high.

This famous old-vine cuvée is made from three quarters Grenache and one quarter Syrah. Élevage takes place over 12 months, in 450-litre tonneaux, all of which are two or three years old. The 2013 weighs in at 14.2 percent, high enough, one may think, but lower than many years and lending the wine a quality which Serge describes as ‘aérien’. Fear not, however, as there is no lack of the classic Vacqueyras spicy weight and length.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

One of the best properties in the appellation of Vacqueyras, and certainly the bestnamed, Le Sang des Cailloux is located on the limestone escarpment which divides the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrians. The idiosyncrasy betrayed by Serge Férigoule handle-bar moustache reveals an approach to winemaking which is as individual as it is successful. His unrivalled experience allows him to compare 2013 with 1983, when there was also coulure in the Grenache, but when there were also some very nice wines made.

An older plot, the Lopy, yields wines which are slow to evolve, their Mourvèdre content (30 percent) suiting the vintage and adding a savoury undercurrent to the Grenache, which controls early progress from the quarterdeck. Syrah fills the topsails and a little Cinsault teases the rudder of a pretty vessel which glides with an unassuming femininity but does not lack for power beneath. 
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

Blue and yellow clay on the Plateau des garrigues host densely planted (10,000 per hectare) old Grenache vines. Aiden’s philosophy in the winery centres on what he describes as infusion that is to say extended maceration but without too much jiggery-pokery. The Vacqueyras is amazingly pure, despite its concentration, with garrigue and spice providing eloquent counterpoint to the dark fruit.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Aidren Rousten is a vigneron’s vigneron; passionate, committed and almost protective of his vines, which cover five hectares in Gigondas and 10 in Vacqueyras, the latter located high above the village, on the border with Beaumes-De-Venise. Biodynamic viticulture and an almost quixotic refusal to compromise have resulted in yields of 17 hectare litres per hectare in 2012 and, unsurprisingly, magnificently expressive fruit.

Adrien Rousten is a vigneron’s vigneron; passionate, committed and almost protective of his vines, which cover five hectares in Gigondas and 10 in Vacqueras, the latter located high above the village, on the border with Beaumes-de-Venise. He farms biodynamically and is certainly one to watch.

The soil here is a combination of stony red clay and blue marl, the former contributing considerable finesse, the latter power and depth of flavour. Eschewing destemming and any form of intervention in terms of ageing vessel, Adrien Roustan has coaxed a fruit basket of flavour from his old vines. Poised tannins and impressive length complete the picture.

A few miles down the D7, Yves nurtures old vines in the appellation of Vacqueyras. Earth, aniseed, licorice and plenty of attitude; a powerful, peppery wine, made for red meat and game.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

Situated on eight hectares of archetypical Vacqueyras clay on the appellation’s eponymous plateau and near to the domaine itself, Le Clos performed especially well in 2015. Its personality inspired Christine’s “la concentration délicate” description, which flirts with contradiction in the same way as the wine manages to combine black fruit power and a gently tapered, refined finish. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves.