Volnay

The wine from this monopole displays Buffet’s usual bright but pale colour along with a classy, balanced nose. This is very pure and stylish with a lovely backbone, yet all with Volnay red-fruit elegance.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

Glowing purple with a heady delicious nose, this displays really intense fruit in the domaine’s usual elegant register: noble raspberries, a nice touch of oak and an exceptionally long sensual finish. There was very little hail here, fortunately.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

From 60-year-old vines, harvested in the first week of September, Les Brouillards is complex and mineral – more so than the excellent Les Angles – with the impeccable balance characteristic of all Louis’s 2015s.

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

The Clos de la Cave escaped the worst of the hail and has produced a very fine Volnay in 2013. It is a beautiful pink-purple colour with a very lively nose. Perfect bright red fruit, raspberry notes, and a silky mouthful with excellent intensity rather than weight, perfect finish.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

This has the typical brilliant purple colour of the vintage with an intensity of cherry and raspberry fruit, and has kept its freshness superbly. This site was picked early because the clay soil naturally delivers excellent weight. Drink 2026-2034.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

As the vines are younger, the fruit from Les Champans is de-stemmed. The wine has good density of colour with an elegant nose, between cherry and raspberry. On the palate, raspberry notes come to the fore, with good, structural balance, superb texture and a fine, floral aftertaste.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Domaine de Montille is a first-class Côte de Beaune domaine and one which is producing some of the purest expressions of Pinot Noir to be found in Burgundy today. The domaine was developed by Hubert de Montille, a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1951 and most of the production was sold in bulk to négociants. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, as well as four hectares in Pommard, taking his total holdings to just short of 17 hectares. Today the property is run by his son Etienne.

Lovely bright purple, the nose is an interesting mix of red cherries and prunes. Bright raspberry fruit follows on the palate with lovely fresh acidity and excellent structure to the finish.

Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Harvest began during the last week in September and finished just before the storm. There was less whole bunch vinification for the wines affected by hail, but Volnay Taillepieds, Pommard Rugiens, Corton Clos du Roi and the wines from the Côte de Nuits were all predominantly vinified with their stems.

 

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is a touch of reduction on the nose of Dominique Lafon’s Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2011, although underneath is some crisp red cherry and strawberry scents that are desperate to come out. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe red cherries, strawberry and citrus fruit. This is nicely balanced with a composed finish that lingers nicely in the mouth without becoming overbearing, though it seems to lose a little tenacity with time in the glass. Still, this is a nicely crafted, understated drop.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate, November 2014

Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

 

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans is the one Volnay that is 100% whole cluster. Brian Sieve explained that these particular vines produce very little fruit: small berries with more wood than foliage on the actual vines (due to a misplanted rootstock 45 years ago!). But the silver lining, a least in this year, is that the hail did not do so much damage here as elsewhere. "There was good air flow and bunches less tightly packed so you could easily discard any unsuitable berries on the sorting table," winemaker Brian Sieve explained. It has an “airy” bouquet with more lift and floral scents compared to the Champans. The palate is medium-bodied with bright cranberry and tart red cherry notes, brittle but fine tannins with plenty of freshness on the pointed finish where the stem characteristic is just tangible. This seems to be a step up from the Champans this year, and may merit a higher score down the line.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate, December 2014

From vineyards at the heart of the appellation, just below the Premiers Crus, this has a similar colour and style to the straight Volnay but with just a little more stuffing, and greater persistence.

Michel and Frédéric found the hail even sadder in 2014, their third year of suffering in succession, because the vines looked in such great condition before the catastrophe of 28th June. They lost more than half the crop once again, but were able to harvest ripe and healthy grapes to make absolutely fantastic wines. They remind Michel of both 1966 and 1978, vintages “which are still beautiful and always were”.

Fine, elegant purple, this is a very perfumed, gorgeously stylish wine. It has absolutely heavenly fresh red fruit, a sense of Côte de Nuits-style seduction and exceptional persistence. This wine has outperformed its usual place in the firmament.

Michel and Frédéric found the hail even sadder in 2014, their third year of suffering in succession, because the vines looked in such great condition before the catastrophe of 28th June. They lost more than half the crop once again, but were able to harvest ripe and healthy grapes to make absolutely fantastic wines. They remind Michel of both 1966 and 1978, vintages “which are still beautiful and always were”.

Made from 25-year-old vines but evidently from a great selection of Pinot plants. Mid purple with a brilliant nose, this is lively but rounded, with plump berry fruit, consistent with its 2012 brilliance. There is a lot of juicy energy here, absolutely heavenly. It has a magical, glossy feel. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.
 

A dense medium purple colour, with a rich coating of dark velvety fruit, this 2015 is 85 percent whole-bunch with 33 percent new wood, a little bit of which shows on the nose. The firm, youthful finish suggests a good future for this wine. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.