Volnay

The wine from this monopole displays Buffet’s usual bright but pale colour along with a classy, balanced nose. This is very pure and stylish with a lovely backbone, yet all with Volnay red-fruit elegance.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

Glowing purple with a heady delicious nose, this displays really intense fruit in the domaine’s usual elegant register: noble raspberries, a nice touch of oak and an exceptionally long sensual finish. There was very little hail here, fortunately.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

A 60:40 blend of young-vine Santenots Premier Cru and village Volnay, the nose is packed with red cherry fruit and lifted floral notes. The palate is full of supple, juicy fruit, all kept in check by layers of chalky tannins which coat the tongue. Lovely, with surprising persistence for a village wine. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

As the vines are younger, the fruit from Les Champans is de-stemmed. The wine has good density of colour with an elegant nose, between cherry and raspberry. On the palate, raspberry notes come to the fore, with good, structural balance, superb texture and a fine, floral aftertaste.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Just 3.5 barrels/1000 bottles made. Caillerets is considered one of the top vineyards of Volnay, and this is a textbook example. The beautiful floral perfume and juicy strawberry fruit speak clearly of the elegance of Volnay, whilst the intensely mineral, stony palate is a hallmark of Caillerets. A wine which is buzzing with energy.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This Premier Cru Volnay displays vibrant purple fruit with a touch of wood. There is impressive weight to this and no signs of post-hail stress. The fruit is mouth-filling and the finish excellent. Although this is backward, it is nonetheless very promising.

Production of the Dominique Lafon wines has now moved to large cellars at the Château de Bligny, providing much better working conditions than previously. As a result of the hail, there is unlikely to be any village Volnay or Beaune Épenottes for us to offer. However, Dominique has found an excellent source of Beaune Vignes Franches this year to make up part of the shortfall. This cuvée apart, all the vineyards are managed by the Les Héretiers du Comte Lafon viticultural team, using the same methods. Starting this year, the wines will all be bottled using Diam30 corks.

From vineyards at the heart of the appellation, just below the Premiers Crus, this has a similar colour and style to the straight Volnay but with just a little more stuffing, and greater persistence.

Michel and Frédéric found the hail even sadder in 2014, their third year of suffering in succession, because the vines looked in such great condition before the catastrophe of 28th June. They lost more than half the crop once again, but were able to harvest ripe and healthy grapes to make absolutely fantastic wines. They remind Michel of both 1966 and 1978, vintages “which are still beautiful and always were”.

Fine, elegant purple, this is a very perfumed, gorgeously stylish wine. It has absolutely heavenly fresh red fruit, a sense of Côte de Nuits-style seduction and exceptional persistence. This wine has outperformed its usual place in the firmament.

Michel and Frédéric found the hail even sadder in 2014, their third year of suffering in succession, because the vines looked in such great condition before the catastrophe of 28th June. They lost more than half the crop once again, but were able to harvest ripe and healthy grapes to make absolutely fantastic wines. They remind Michel of both 1966 and 1978, vintages “which are still beautiful and always were”.

Made from 25-year-old vines but evidently from a great selection of Pinot plants. Mid purple with a brilliant nose, this is lively but rounded, with plump berry fruit, consistent with its 2012 brilliance. There is a lot of juicy energy here, absolutely heavenly. It has a magical, glossy feel. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.
 

A dense medium purple colour, with a rich coating of dark velvety fruit, this 2015 is 85 percent whole-bunch with 33 percent new wood, a little bit of which shows on the nose. The firm, youthful finish suggests a good future for this wine. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

There were low yields here after some drought stress in the lower part of the vineyard. This delivers concentration with a useful firmness of touch through the middle, a long linear presence and a persistent finish. Drink 2021-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation  to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.

The Mitans displays a perfect pitch of purple colour and tightly knit fruit on the nose. Dense and concentrated on the palate, this is almost cerebral, a Volnay with fine lasting power. This demonstrates quality tannins with supple and seemingly everlasting fruit. Drink 2024-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The 2015 vintage did not start easily, as the vines were difficult to prune after the hail in preceding years, and only a small crop set. Thereafter conditions were near perfect, with just enough rain when they needed it to make sure that the grapes ripened ideally. There is only half a crop, but of magical quality. Michel Lafarge has no difficulty in finding a vintage to compare it to: just like 1929. Both years, he notes, are particularly suited to the graceful terroirs such as Volnay.

From older vines in the best, most central, plots, this glows fresh purple in colour. Heady, irresistible, complex red fruits fill the palate, then more structure behind. The tannins are supple, with just enough acidity, and the finish displays amazing persistence. Drink 2022-2029.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The 2015 vintage did not start easily, as the vines were difficult to prune after the hail in preceding years, and only a small crop set. Thereafter conditions were near perfect, with just enough rain when they needed it to make sure that the grapes ripened ideally. There is only half a crop, but of magical quality. Michel Lafarge has no difficulty in finding a vintage to compare it to: just like 1929. Both years, he notes, are particularly suited to the graceful terroirs such as Volnay.

An attractive red cherry nose jumps out of the glass. Plenty of ripe fruit on the palate, this is held in check by the mineral core this renowned vineyard is famous for. Precise on the finish. Gove it 5 years in the cellar.
Fergus Stewart, BBR Fine Wine Department