Volnay

A 60:40 blend of young-vine Santenots Premier Cru and village Volnay, the nose is packed with red cherry fruit and lifted floral notes. The palate is full of supple, juicy fruit, all kept in check by layers of chalky tannins which coat the tongue. Lovely, with surprising persistence for a village wine. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

Light purple in the glass, there is an intriguing hint of sweet spice – ginger even – on the nose, and masses of black fruit on the palate. The round, ripe tannins and gentle acidity make this a sunny, sensual wine.

Situated below Champans, François’s 0.51 hectares of vines were mostly planted in 1956, with some in 1998. The brownish, alluvial soil gives a rounded expression of Volnay with a firm backbone and generous red fruit. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

At the very north of the appellation, next to the D’Angerville monopole of Le Clos des Ducs, this is a rich wine, almost ferrous with some rusticity. Its proximity to Pommard makes it the most masculine and structured of the range, but equally gives excellent ageing potential. A total of 0.5 hectares, mostly planted from 1959 to 1974. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

The vineyard needs no introduction, and Bitouzet-Prieur have holdings of 0.72 hectares, planted in 1971, 1983, 1997. A rocky, saline and mineral wine with great energy; it is presently incredibly closed and tightly wound, but the potential is there for a great vin de garde. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The estate has two parcels in this excellent Premeir Cru, totalling 0.54 hectares planted from 1976 to 1986. This is a noble, perfumed and high-class wine with great density and tightly-wound power. The quality of tannins is remarkable, like spun silk. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This has the typical brilliant purple colour of the vintage with an intensity of cherry and raspberry fruit, and has kept its freshness superbly. This site was picked early because the clay soil naturally delivers excellent weight. Drink 2026-2034.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

From a tiny parcel of just 0.15 hectares, François makes barely three barrels per year. There is an initial smoky reduction which clears to reveal rich, intense red fruit. The palate is profoundly mineral with wet stones enveloped by nervy raspberry fruit. Through the whole is a freshness that is almost citrus in its profile, whilst the finish is incredibly chalky and mineral. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Just 3.5 barrels/1000 bottles made. Caillerets is considered one of the top vineyards of Volnay, and this is a textbook example. The beautiful floral perfume and juicy strawberry fruit speak clearly of the elegance of Volnay, whilst the intensely mineral, stony palate is a hallmark of Caillerets. A wine which is buzzing with energy.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Glowing purple with a heady delicious nose, this displays really intense fruit in the domaine’s usual elegant register: noble raspberries, a nice touch of oak and an exceptionally long sensual finish. There was very little hail here, fortunately.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

Made from 25-year-old vines but evidently from a great selection of Pinot plants. Mid purple with a brilliant nose, this is lively but rounded, with plump berry fruit, consistent with its 2012 brilliance. There is a lot of juicy energy here, absolutely heavenly. It has a magical, glossy feel. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.
 

A dense medium purple colour, with a rich coating of dark velvety fruit, this 2015 is 85 percent whole-bunch with 33 percent new wood, a little bit of which shows on the nose. The firm, youthful finish suggests a good future for this wine. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

This has the same bright purple colour as the other wines and the same haunting elegance. If anything, the fruit is even more pure and sensationally persistent. There is a gorgeous, satiny texture to boot. Another wonderful Lafarge wine, this will give pleasure over the long term. Drink 2027-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The 2015 vintage did not start easily, as the vines were difficult to prune after the hail in preceding years, and only a small crop set. Thereafter conditions were near perfect, with just enough rain when they needed it to make sure that the grapes ripened ideally. There is only half a crop, but of magical quality. Michel Lafarge has no difficulty in finding a vintage to compare it to: just like 1929. Both years, he notes, are particularly suited to the graceful terroirs such as Volnay.