Volnay

If he can, Sébastien looks to locate village vineyards immediately beside Premiers Crus, and here his land is right under Les Roncerets, at the top of Les Échards. Only a barrel was made, but only a little more than two barrels appear in a good year. With lots of red cherry and violet perfume, the wine is glossy and silky on the palate, and definitely seductive. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

No relation to the many Magniens of the Côte de Nuits, young Sébastien comes instead from Meloisey in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – a village whose wines were as well thought of as those of Volnay in the 14th century, and were served at the coronation of King Philip II Augustus in 1180. However, to be in the thick of things, Sébastien has transferred headquarters to revamped cellars in the middle of Meursault. He is equally adept at making red and white wines. Sitting (relatively) modestly on Sébastien’s shelf in his tasting area is a trophy: for the Jeunes Talents Côte de Beaune 2016. Sébastien’s star is certainly rising, and fully deserved. Everything here is precise and considered. His vineyards in Beaune, Puligny and St Romain were not frosted, but there are significant reductions elsewhere throughout his range. Much of Sébastien’s focus is in the vineyard, where he tries to capture the spirit of each of his wines. The difficulties of the spring aside, he is very happy with his results this year. He has also been paying particular attention to the toast levels of his barrels, with an even more discreet, integrated result.

Bitouzet-Prieur has 2.21 hectares spread across Echards, Aussy and Petits Gamets, all in the same location to the southeast of the village. The nose has a touch of spicy oak initially which gives way to a pretty, floral character and sweet red berries. The palate is rich, a product of the deep-ish soils, but with balancing acidity and succulent, dense red fruit. A forward and appetising Volnay. Drink 2020-2025.

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

While officially a village wine, Sébastien’s vines are  at the top of this vineyard, touching the Premier Cru of Ronceret. This wine offers excellent Volnay typicity, with bright red-cherry fruit and violets on the nose and a fine, ethereal palate resplendent with succulent strawberry and silky tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

With 100 percent whole-bunch, this has a bit of grip but there is a fine core of velvety Volnay fruit. The fruit here comes from three parcels – La Gigotte, Les Famines and Les Pluchots. Although the vines have all been certified as organic since 2007, Jean-Yves only now – 10 years on – feels that they are in a condition that meets his exacting standards. Drink 2020-2024.

A 60:40 blend of young-vine Santenots Premier Cru and village Volnay, the nose is packed with red cherry fruit and lifted floral notes. The palate is full of supple, juicy fruit, all kept in check by layers of chalky tannins which coat the tongue. Lovely, with surprising persistence for a village wine. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This is from the lower part of Lurets, which is classified as village-level, and is always the last vineyard to be picked, as the fruit ripens late. It has a classic Volnay nose of pretty red fruit and flowers, while the palate has juicy strawberry fruit and crunchy, powdery tannins. Elegant and pretty. Drink 2020-2024.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Les Aussy is a generous Premier Cru vineyard, and the 2017 characteristically offers rich and earthy red fruit, more concentration and density than the village wine and a more refined tannic structure. There is plenty of charm and approachability here, but a little more stuffing than its little brother. Drink 2021-2026. 

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

Situated below Champans, François’s 0.51 hectares of vines were mostly planted in 1956, with some in 1998. The brownish, alluvial soil gives a rounded expression of Volnay with a firm backbone and generous red fruit. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

At the very north of the appellation, next to the D’Angerville monopole of Le Clos des Ducs, this is a rich wine, almost ferrous with some rusticity. Its proximity to Pommard makes it the most masculine and structured of the range, but equally gives excellent ageing potential. A total of 0.5 hectares, mostly planted from 1959 to 1974. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

François shows this wine at the end of the tasting, describing it as a “distant cousin” of his other Volnays; there’s a family resemblance, but the structure is more Pommard than Volnay. There is plenty of red Volnay fruit, but the brawny tannins speak of the iron-rich soils and suggest this needs time. Drink 2023-2028.

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

Arguably the most complex and age-worthy wine in the cellar, this is very tight in its youth, with a little floral character poking through a muted nose before some stony minerals emerge. The palate is tightly structured with densely packed, stony tannins a touch of oak spice and some rich red fruit. This needs time to open up, but will reward those with patience. Drink 2024-2032.

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

The vineyard needs no introduction, and Bitouzet-Prieur have holdings of 0.72 hectares, planted in 1971, 1983, 1997. A rocky, saline and mineral wine with great energy; it is presently incredibly closed and tightly wound, but the potential is there for a great vin de garde. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

With little less structure and a touch more silk than the Taillepieds, this is an excellent example of suave and sophisticated Volnay from this prime site. The nose is somewhat closed, but the palate is resplendent with rich red berries, silky, caressing tannins and a crisp, precise, lingering finish. Drink 2023-2030. 

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

The estate has two parcels in this excellent Premeir Cru, totalling 0.54 hectares planted from 1976 to 1986. This is a noble, perfumed and high-class wine with great density and tightly-wound power. The quality of tannins is remarkable, like spun silk. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This is an outstanding site renowned for its intensely mineral wines; sadly the Bitouzets only own enough to make barely three barrels. The nose is a little marked by the oak at the moment but will absorb the wood with time; there is certainly the fruit and the rocky, precise tannins to carry this. A vin de garde. Drink 2024-2032.

François is keen to highlight the importance of the solidarity shown by the Côte’s vignerons at the end of April, when everyone came together to burn dampened bales and create cloud cover to ward off the frost. Without such action this could well have been another catastrophic yield. Having avoided this threat, the rest of the season was fairly straightforward with careful vineyard management and harvest began on the 30th August. He feels the whites are a mix of 2015 and 2014, while the reds are pretty and will drink well from an early age.

From a tiny parcel of just 0.15 hectares, François makes barely three barrels per year. There is an initial smoky reduction which clears to reveal rich, intense red fruit. The palate is profoundly mineral with wet stones enveloped by nervy raspberry fruit. Through the whole is a freshness that is almost citrus in its profile, whilst the finish is incredibly chalky and mineral. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer