Gevrey Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in Burgundy’s Côte d'Or. Located in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits, the classic style is typically deeper in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. While in the past there have been myriad underperformers here, the overall quality is now higher than ever and the best can develop into the most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world.
Bottle
£36.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 25cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted family in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The first experiments started in 1997 with their Chapelle- Chambertin, followed by conversion of the whole domaine in 2004. Vinification includes a small proportion of whole bunches, while the trend in recent years has been to look for an increasingly elegant expression of Pinot Noir. It’s a remarkable cellar this year, with brothers Nicolas and David radiating calm and understanding. As elsewhere, this was a very challenging vintage for them, especially in Beaune, the village Gevrey vines and Le Chambertin. Containing the mildew required an incredible amount of work by hand. Their biodynamic strategy seems to have paid off though; after a slow start to the range, the impression was of incremental qualities. Intensity, not density. Nicolas and David referred us to Nono, Love and the Soil by Gaston Roupnel, a novelist born in Gevrey.
Bottle
£45.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 17cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Virgile Lignier started working alongside his father in 1988, really taking charge from 2000, by which time all the wines were being bottled at the domaine. Significant advances were made in the vineyards, reducing yields and ploughing the soil, along with the introduction of a sorting table and a higher percentage of new wood in the cellar. The domaine has an exemplary range of Morey- St Denis vineyards, supplemented by one or two cuvées from neighbouring villages. By his own admission, in his early days Virgile Lignier looked for too much extraction from his wines. The tide began to turn in 2006 and today he is very comfortable in his style. He does like to look for good levels of maturity and he waited just a day or two more than his neighbours to pick, beginning on 29th September and finishing on 3rd October in his Faconnières vineyard. He likes long skin contact, starting at a cool temperature, but with limited pumping over. Virgile is perfectly satisfied with his results in 2016, but did remark that it was hard work getting to what was eventually a very healthy harvest.
Bottle
£45.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
This year Jean-Luc and Eric Burguet purchased some additional vineyards from another member of the family: an additional 0.75ha each in the two village Gevrey cuvées. We may also get a small allocation of Gevrey-Chambertin, Champeaux, 1er Cru and a new wine, Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux St Jacques, 1er Cru. They found that 2014 produced decent yields, with picking beginning on 18th September.
Bottle
£45.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 10cs
Bottle
£49.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 35cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Louis Boillot came to Chambolle-Musigny, where his partner Ghislaine Barthod is based, from Gevrey-Chambertin, though as his full range of wines indicates, he is descended from the Volnay family of Boillots. He was formerly associated with his brother and father at Domaine Lucien Boillot, but set up on his own from the 2003 vintage. In 2013, Louis supplemented his holdings in the Côte d’Or with the purchase of just over four hectares of well-sited old vines in the north of Moulin-à-Vent (the fruit of which you’ll find on pages 54 and 55). Louis and Ghislaine have recently been joined by their son Clément. Given that Louis thought that his 2015s were among the best wines he has ever made, it is quite a step up for him to say that, categorically, this is his best-ever vintage. It is an assertion that’s hard to refute. His eschewing of current trends in winemaking (no whole-bunch here) and a modest, reflective stance has allowed him to get the best out of his extraordinary array of vineyards and old vines. There are wonderful expressions of each vineyard this year.
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 31cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Barrel-chested Alain Burguet has been one of Gevrey’s most respected vignerons for a quarter of a century. He left school in 1964 to work in the vines and made his first vintage under his own name in 1972. Alain’s muscular physique could be seen in the wines he made in the 1980s, where the tannins were occasionally too firm for the fruit. His style evolved towards a gentler, fruitier style which has been continued by his sons Jean-Luc and Eric since then. Their own vineyards are all located within Gevrey-Chambertin but the range has been supplemented by one or two cuvées from purchased fruit. Eric Burguet was phlegmatic but a little downcast on our visit. The frost was bad enough (taking out 30 percent), but he also lost another 40 percent to mildew. In the end they had to abandon their organic status, just to save anything from the crop. But it was too late for their Vosne-Romanée and Clos de Bèze, of which there is none. They are now under lutte raisonnée, and wonder whether they will ever return to organic. More positively, they do, like almost everyone else, have a decent volume in 2017. The mood of the tasting did not deflect from the quality that has been salvaged by their famously diligent triage processes
Bottle
£55.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 23cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Bottle
£55.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 39cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Barrel-chested Alain Burguet has been one of Gevrey’s most respected vignerons for a quarter of a century. He left school in 1964 to work in the vines and made his first vintage under his own name in 1972. Alain’s muscular physique could be seen in the wines he made in the 1980s, where the tannins were occasionally too firm for the fruit. His style evolved towards a gentler, fruitier style which has been continued by his sons Jean-Luc and Eric since then. Their own vineyards are all located within Gevrey-Chambertin but the range has been supplemented by one or two cuvées from purchased fruit. Eric Burguet was phlegmatic but a little downcast on our visit. The frost was bad enough (taking out 30 percent), but he also lost another 40 percent to mildew. In the end they had to abandon their organic status, just to save anything from the crop. But it was too late for their Vosne-Romanée and Clos de Bèze, of which there is none. They are now under lutte raisonnée, and wonder whether they will ever return to organic. More positively, they do, like almost everyone else, have a decent volume in 2017. The mood of the tasting did not deflect from the quality that has been salvaged by their famously diligent triage processes.
Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 19cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with a niece (Frédérique) in the vineyards and cuverie, and a daughter (Karine) in the office, continuity is in place. The style here is for powerful wines which age exceptionally well. Christian Sérafin’s niece Frédérique feels that 2016 is “une grande année de garde”, and could well surpass 2015. In fact, her confidence in the vintage is such that all the wines will be raised entirely in new oak barrels. The most badly-frosted vineyards were Bourgogne and Chambolle Baudes, which suffered 60 percent frost. Overall yields were down by around 50 percent but the cousins expect to release a larger proportion of the crop than usual en primeur in order to minimise the immediate impact of the losses. These are certainly wines which deserve long- term ageing.
Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 40cs
Bottle
£60.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 9cs
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
The last few vintages have shown a freshening up of the Sérafin style, though absolutely not at the expense of the concentration which is a hallmark of this domaine. The concentration of the fruit comes from their meticulous work in the vineyards, the fresher style from a little less extraction during fermentation. Christian himself thinks that 2010 is notably more concentrated than 2009 and as everywhere else, yields are down this year.
Bottle
£63.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.
Bottle
£65.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 121cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Though we still have the pleasure of tasting with Christian Sérafin, it is now his niece, Frédérique who is solely responsible for winemaking. Christian describes 2014 as being all about elegance and balance, with neither too much acidity nor tannin. The Sérafin wines always repay patience.
Bottle
£67.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Glowing purple, this has a really engaging colour with a vibrant, heady nose to match – beautifully supported by the oak. A huge wealth of fruit in the mouth, quite firm structure, this is very backward but will make a great bottle. The pure fruit really lingers on the finish.
Though we still have the pleasure of tasting with Christian Sérafin, it is now his niece, Frédérique who is solely responsible for winemaking. Christian describes 2014 as being all about elegance and balance, with neither too much acidity nor tannin. The Sérafin wines always repay patience.
*Discount is already applied to the single-bottle price and no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£68.25
Bottle 6 x 75cl 3cs
Bottle
£69.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with a niece (Frédérique) in the vineyards and cuverie, and a daughter (Karine) in the office, continuity is in place. The style here is for powerful wines which age exceptionally well. Christian Sérafin’s niece Frédérique feels that 2016 is “une grande année de garde”, and could well surpass 2015. In fact, her confidence in the vintage is such that all the wines will be raised entirely in new oak barrels. The most badly-frosted vineyards were Bourgogne and Chambolle Baudes, which suffered 60 percent frost. Overall yields were down by around 50 percent but the cousins expect to release a larger proportion of the crop than usual en primeur in order to minimise the immediate impact of the losses. These are certainly wines which deserve long- term ageing.
Bottle
£80.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
David’s deft hand has produced an elegant Charmes- Chambertin, which is very prettily perfumed, with fine raspberry fruit. Everything is as it should be structurally, with neither acidity nor tannins impeding the succulence of the fruit; this has an agreeably persistent finish.
Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.
*Discount is already applied to the single-bottle price and no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£81.00
Bottle
£85.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 12cs
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 9cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Rich mid-purple, the nose a little bit restrained at first, yet the fruit absolutely fills the mouth on the palate with gentle strawberry notes and amazing persistence. Not the most blockbuster of Chambertins but a lovely stylish example.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.
*Discount is already applied to the single-bottle price and no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Bottle
£147.00
Bottle
£156.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
The 2013 harvest is the latest ever recorded at Burguet, starting 9th October, in the cold more than the rain – there was even some frost one morning. They have three separate sorting stations, though rot varied by sector. Vinification was normal, a long time in tank but a gentle approach. The 2013 is particularly, and consistently, successful chez Burguet.
Bottle
£192.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate (autumn 2016)
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 8cs
A lightly dusty quality to the aroma here but not in a negative way. On the palate, ripe and rich in fruit, with real depth and persistence. Chewy and long.
Drinking Window 2020-2032
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson, 11th January 2016
*Discount already applied to product price. No further discount will be applied at checkout.
*Discount is already applied to the single-bottle price and no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Magnum
£245.00
Case price (Bottle 12 x 75cl)
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - eRobertParker.com - Dec 2014
Bottle
£275.00
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd