Cairanne
The wine appellation of Cairanne is located on a limestone plateau in Southern Rhône, its vineyards generally less elevated than those of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, which are situated a few kilometres to the east. The wines are benchmark Côtes du Rhône Villages, made from Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre, combining ripe fruit, pepper and spice.
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Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin,
Ready, but will keep,
Les Douyes is an equal blend of co-planted Grenache and Mourvèdre from 100-year-old vines grown on modest slopes of clay-dominated soil, which is aged for 18 months in foudre. Demeter accreditation is reflected in a palate profile of sous-bois, herbs and Provençal warmth. Drink 2018 - 2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
L’Oratoire St Martin is run with great skill by brothers François and Frédéric Alary, both leading players in the movement to get Cairanne promoted to stand-alone Cru status, a movement which has recently been successful. The Alary family can trace its origins to the same decade as Berry Bros. & Rudd (1698 for us, 1692 for them) and now farms over 28 hectares, in the middle of which there was once, apparently, an oratory of some description. Low-yielding old vines are farmed biodynamically and the wines are vinified first in open-top fermenters and then in large foudres of 3,400 litres. The Alary brothers have risen to the challenges imposed by their de facto status as the leading producers in the recently created stand-alone Cairanne Cru. Nowhere is this more evident than in the supreme quality of their 2015 wines.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
L’Oratoire St Martin is run with great skill by brothers François and Frédéric Alary, both leading players in the movement to get Cairanne promoted to stand-alone Cru status, a movement which has recently been successful. The Alary family can trace its origins to the same decade as Berry Bros. & Rudd (1698 for us, 1692 for them) and now farms over 28 hectares, in the middle of which there was once, apparently, an oratory of some description. Low-yielding old vines are farmed biodynamically and the wines are vinified first in open-top fermenters and then in large foudres of 3,400 litres. The Alary brothers have risen to the challenges imposed by their de facto status as the leading producers in the recently created stand-alone Cairanne Cru. Nowhere is this more evident than in the supreme quality of their 2015 wines.
Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin,
Ready, but will improve,
The Alary family in L’Oratoire St Martin can trace its origins to the same decade as Berry Bros. & Rudd (1698 for us, 1692 for them) and now farms over 28 hectares biodynamically from very old, low-yielding vines. The Alarys were heavily involved in getting the Cairanne appellation elevated to its Cru status in 2016. From a very warm year in the southern Rhône, this
cuvée is packed full of dark berry fruit, sweet spice and herbs. It has, however, managed to maintain its freshness with good acidity intertwined with very fine dark tannins which make for a long cool finish. Drink now to 2024.
cuvée is packed full of dark berry fruit, sweet spice and herbs. It has, however, managed to maintain its freshness with good acidity intertwined with very fine dark tannins which make for a long cool finish. Drink now to 2024.
Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin,
Ready, but will improve,
The Réserve des Seigneurs has significantly less Grenache this year (40%), with a higher proportion of Mourvèdre (40%) and Syrah (20%) compared to the 2016. This has not been detrimental to this delicious cuvee, however, with opulent layers of pepper, violet and black fruit combined with liquorice spice. A luxurious, silky texture is complemented by fine-grained, powdery tannins and brisk acidity. Drink now to 2025.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
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Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Certified as biodynamic in 2012, L’Oratoire St Martin is run with great skill by brothers François and Fréderic Alary, both leading players in the long-overdue movement to get Cairanne promoted to stand-alone ‘cru’ status. According to Frédéric, 2015 may well be the year; 2013, on the other hand, was the year to tax the accountants, given the miniscule yields of Grenache that were farmed. The wines that were made are impressive, probably best approached in relative youth, which is no bad thing.