The sweeping, steep terraces of the Wachau, in Lower Austria, on the northern banks of the Danube, an hour’s drive west from Vienna, are home to Austria’s greatest dry white wines.
Here Riesling and Grüner Veltliner excel in producing wines of startling purity and pristine intensity. The climate changes slightly to produce the warmer, richer wines around Dürnstein and Loiben, to steely yet opulent wines around Spitz.
Recommended Producers
Toni Bodenstein of Weingut Prager epitomises the former, whilst Franz and Irmgard Hirtzberger’s vineyards are the ultimate expression of the latter. The region uses a unique system of classification to indicate the level of ripeness at harvest. Steinfeder is the lightest, with an alcohol of around 10%, then Federspiel, which must not exceed 12% and finally Smaragd, named after an emerald green lizard found in the vineyards, which are assertive, late-harvested wines, but fermented to dryness.
Undisputed Grüner specialists and leading producer in the Wachau, F.X. Pichler dates back to 1898. In the early 1970s Franz Xaver (F.X.) Pichler took over the helm at the estate and his meticulous approach to production earned him cult status in Austria. Today the estate is run by his son, Lucas. The family firmly believes in the potential of Grüner Veltliner which makes up half of their production (the rest being Riesling, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc).
This cooler site in the Wachau gives the full and rich FX Pichler style a core of chalky minerality. The acidity is fine and layers with white pepper and stone fruit.
Wines from this grower tend to get better with age and this one is no exception. Possessing wonderfully complex aromatics of pineapple, lime, orange blossom and spice, it has a juicy acidity and purity of fruit that lingers on the palate. Drink from now to 2022. Fiona Hayes, Buyer.
This refreshingly lower alcohol Riesling has a bright peach blossom, white stone character, fined tuned by Toni Bodenstein in his laboratory-like winery. Very intense, very smart & shiny. Riesling with bells on it! Drinking but will keep. David Berry Green
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This cooler site in the Wachau gives the full and rich FX Pichler style a core of chalky minerality. The acidity is fine and layers with white pepper and stone fruit.