Auxey-Duresses

Fichet’s Auxey comes from two parcels; the south- facing Les Nampoillons, which is in the fault running towards St Romain, and Les Closeaux, on the Meursault side of the village. Forty percent of the crop was lost to frost damage and, when tasted in October, this was somewhat closed, but there is a pure, citrus-driven fruit profile. With age this is likely to fill out a touch but will remain a linear expression. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Fichet’s big step forward came in 2000 when he moved the whole operation to splendid cellars at Le Creux du Coche by the Hôpital de Meursault. Jean-Philippe is looking for purity in his wines. He deals mostly with lieux-dits in Meursault with just one Premier Cru in Puligny. Constantly experimenting and refining, his wines have real definition and individuality, with the individual terroirs clearly exposed. The wines are raised in barrel for the first year, using larger demi- muids for the lesser appellations, then assembled in tank. A maximum of 30 percent new oak is used on any cuvée. It is hard not to be infected by Jean- Philippe’s enthusiasm and positivity. Despite being 40 percent down in 2016, he remained upbeat, explaining that he sees the variability of vintages as part and parcel of a vigneron ’s lot. The losses could have been much worse, but the domaine is equipped with candles which protect against frost and they work hard in the vines to keep grass low to reduce the risk of frost damage. He declared himself happy with the quality, but feels it is a vintage which will require patience on the part of the consumer, as many of the wines will be more austere in youth than those of 2015.

Very lovely floral notes, confirming Benjamin’s view that this is the best vintage he has made in white. Lifted and vivacious on the palate, crisp behind but with appealing flesh, medium bodied but persistent. Drink 2016-2018.
Jasper Morris MW - BBR Buyer

Ripe purple, with a dense concentration of dark cherry fruit, there is something a touch firmer behind, with more structure, as befits a Premier Cru. The bones are covered by delicious, unctuous fruit. This is a wine with great persistence. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Paul Zinetti’s second harvest at the domaine has at least given him a few more grapes to play with than 2014 and fruit of exceptional quality. Nonetheless 2015 was once again a very short crop because of the previous hail damage, delivering just one third of what used to be normal. The grapes were mostly de-stemmed, although some whole bunches were used, but always a minority.

This is a lovely mid-purple in colour, boasting a beautiful nose of deep red fruit. The palate displays lovely sweet red griotte cherry fruit, followed by a lively but not trenchant acidity behind.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

This was Benjamin Leroux’s last vintage at Domaine du Comte Armand and possibly his smallest yet. Just 18 barrels of Clos des Epeneaux have been made, with a yield of around eight hectolitres per hectare. The vintage began on 25th September with good looking grapes and decent maturity. Benjamin is staying involved to see the vintage into bottle, though otherwise Paul Zinetti is now securely in charge.

Wild flowers abound on the nose behind a light touch of reduction. Lemon notes on the palate, fresh and vivacious, with a clean finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Jean-Philippes crop is down from 30 to 40% after the cold and wet flowering, but he is very happy with the quality. He started picking on Sunday 19th September and had finished before the rains came the following Friday. This is a domaine which has been consistently reliable in recent years, delivers excellent value for money and enjoys much deserved success.