Hautes-Cotes-de Nuits

Myosotis arvensis is forget-me-not. This is more structured and ample than the Orchis. The vines are not that old, but they have plenty of presence. The bouquet is a bit earthier, but still with the swirling top notes of Pinot. The palate has something a little untamed, but also more going on. A ragamuffin of a wine. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Since 1994, Claire Naudin, one of Henri Naudin-Ferrand’s three daughters, has been in charge of this small domaine based in the Hautes Côtes at Magny-lès-Villers, a village that sits astride the dividing line between Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Nuits. Claire is relatively susceptible to sulphur and uses the product as little as possible. Her most exciting wines are those which are vinified with whole bunches (all the stems) and without sulphur, though some SO2 is added at bottling to ensure that the wines remain stable thereafter. Claire’s theory, which her wines bear out admirably, is that there is none of the harshness sometimes evident when the bunches are vinified with their stems if sulphur is not used. Instead a magical floral perfume emanates from the wine. Claire Naudin’s farm and winery may look ramshackle, but there’s an attention to detail here which is admirable. The rather old-fashioned look of her tanks and equipment seems to hark back to gentler times, and her wines certainly reflect that. The frosts were drastic here, and Claire lost 70 percent of her crop, and two 70-year- old parcels of Aligoté were completely destroyed. Previously Claire has made two ranges, one with more standard winemaking, but this year everything is made with low SO2.

This beautifully perfumed wine, packed with plums and ripe cherries, is really impressive. The fruit was very ripe for a Hautes Ctes vineyard but has retained good acidity to keep it fresh. Drink 2008 to 2011.

The harvest here was so small that Thibault told us that the whole crop was harvested before the casse-croûte at 9.30 in the morning. The fruit was all de-stemmed and underwent a long vinification. Attractive, pure and focused fruit is enhanced with 20 percent new oak. Usually Thibault is able to make 50 barrels, but this year there are only 10. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.

Myosotis is forget-me-not, and like the flower itself, this is a delicate wine. The nose is lifted, light and ethereal, while on the palate there is an exquisite deftness and finesse. That is not to say there is no structure; there is plenty of fruit flavour here,  which resembles a coulis of tiny red berries. Drink 2019-2024.


After the catastrophic 2016 vintage, which saw her lose around 70 percent of the crop, Claire Naudin is much happier with 2017. She still didn’t get a full crop, though, because the frost had damaged the vine, stunting the following year’s growth and limiting the crop to 80 percent of a full yield. The vintage certainly suits her style, with wines that are all about elegance, finesse and delicacy. These are appetising wines which always give great pleasure, on even the grandest occasions. As ever the wines are made with 100 percent whole bunches.

After the frost forced Thibault to blend his three Hautes Côtes wines in 2016, they are being made separately again this year. This site is at 400 metres’ altitude, on white marl soil, which translates to a fresh, energetic and pretty wine with vibrant but rich raspberry fruit. Drink 2019-2024.

Thibault continues to keep himself busy, having bought more vineyards in Moulinà-Vent. In the Côte d’Or he waited until 13th September to pick, feeling that the skins were not ripe until that point. He describes the vintage as transparent, where each vineyard’s identity is clearly visible, and one where those with large yields will not be able to hide. In the Beaujolais, hail was again a significant factor, reducing the average yield for those wines he made to an eye-watering 8hl/ha. The damage was so bad that it cost more to pick the grapes than he will make on the wines, but he felt a duty to harvest and vinify the fruit. With careful use of the vibrating sorting table, he was able to carefully select only the clean fruit and has made exceptional wines.