Les Perrieres

Beaune was one of the areas most hit by frost in 2016, although, placed towards the north of the appellation, Les Perrières fared better than some. Historically the limestone content would favour Chardonnay here but, according to Brian Sieve, warmer vintages in recent years have led to a softer, riper style of Beaune. He used one-third whole-cluster this year, scaled back from 2015. Very succulent, there is a lovely cherry and violet, perfumed lift to the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

This, the most interesting of Etienne de Montilles three Beaune cuves, combines dynamic raspberry fruit on the nose with a touch of velvet on the palate. Bursting with energy, this delicious Beaune will be ready to drink from 2010-2015.

Clear, bright, fresh colour, the wine has a lovely zesty energy to the nose. This displays pure white fruit, super concentration, acid balance in exactly the right place and no sense of undue weight. Very classy. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

This is one-third whole-bunch this year, using the older vine fruit and de-stemming the younger portions where stems are typically less ripe. The high active limestone content in this vineyard gives an energetic and mineral expression of Pinot Noir, with succulent cherry fruit in the middle and a violet perfumed lift to accompany the chalky tannins. Drink 2021-2026.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.