Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Arnaud and Marie-Odile Ente have produced really concentrated wines in 2011, with the same yield as they enjoyed in 2010. The vineyards were farmed organically and the grapes were picked earlier than their neighbours, as usual, because the extraordinarily meticulous viticulture produced ripe grapes with the fine acidity that Arnaud cherishes. We also noted a clear step up in the quality of red wines this year.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.
Fine, light and medium purple-red, this has a gentle Pinot nose, with more style than power. There is vivid fresh red fruit on the palate, with some good acidity, and all in balance. A wine of grace more than opulence, vinified entirely with whole bunches – though that does not show. This might be Arnaud’s best Volnay yet.