Puligny Montrachet Grand Cru

The estate has nearly a quarter of a hectare here, but suffered a 50 percent loss in 2016. Marvellously intense, this has an ethereal, cool, stone component – a classic character of this vineyard, with a lick of exotic nectarine on the finish. It was matured equally in a mixture of standard and demis, and with more and longer lees contact than usual, to feed the wine’s textural volume. It will need patience. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Château de Puligny-Montrachet was a slumbering force until finally being awoken by the arrival of Étienne de Montille in time to oversee the 2001 vintage. Under Étienne, yields have been drastically reduced and the wines are handled much more sympathetically in the cellar so that the quality of the fruit dominates the oak. In 2012 Étienne and investors purchased the property and have radically reformed the estate, dropping unsuitable vineyards, converting to organic (and indeed biodynamic) farming, and further improving the winemaking. It was a successful vintage here in terms of quality, under the eye of cellar master Brian Sieve. He recounts how the lower slopes of Puligny-Montrachet and the Bourgogne Blanc vineyards on the plain escaped nearly all the frost, but the lower Meursault vineyards were almost entirely affected. For Château de Puligny-Montrachet, this is a good vintage – maybe lacking the flesh of a truly great year, but equally delicious in its accessibility. Not all the vineyards suffered, but there were, nevertheless, some serious reductions in certain sites.

Like the Cailleret, this escaped frost in 2017. The wine comes from the most northern part of the vineyard. If 2017 is a classic white wine vintage, then this wine, and any other Grand Cru, will be the quintessence of great white Burgundy. Its Chevalier character emerges with its lively, quixotically faceted flavours. Drink 2025-2040.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

Through their contract with Marquis de Laguiche, Drouhin manages an astonishing 2.1 hectares of Montrachet (out of eight hectares), which means they have a mind-boggling 28 barrels this year. As usual at this level, words fail: the dial is on 11 for richness, intensity and voluptuous freshness. Drink 2030-2050.

An extensive tasting with Jérôme, who has been at Drouhin 14 years, gave a very useful insight into the style and developments here. In particular, the reds are moving towards a riper, more succulent style, driven by a high level of grape sorting, including an optical sorter, and the ambition to use 25 to 30 percent wholebunch, or more if the vat needs filling. The wines go to barrel turbid and are not racked until the end of their time in bottle. They are also harvesting later. The Clos des Mouches was not harvested until 20th September, long after their neighbours.

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The 2013 Le Montrachet Grand Cru has a very reserved bouquet, a light marine influence coming through with aeration of shucked oyster shells and a smidgen of orange rind. The palate is fresh and crisp, compact, more austere than the two Chevaliers at the moment, with very laconic, tight-lipped finish compared to others that I have tasted. Let’s see...this is giving away zilch at the moment! 
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - eRobertParker.com - Dec 2014

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At this early stage the oak is more evident than for the straight Chevalier-Montrachet, perhaps hiding the fruit a touch on the nose. However, in the mouth the fruit shows incredible weight and energy, with opulent peaches and nectarines, all in a coating of expensive wood. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The 2013 grapes were picked between 30th September and 11th October. The white skins were fragile so pressing was very gentle, the reds more robust and capable of a good proportion of whole bunch fermentation. Most wines are now in tank with bottling a little earlier than usual. An exceptional range of reds in particular from Bouchard this year.

A stunning Le Montrachet displaying a spectacularly rich nose with layers of mango perfumed fruit and a peachy, exotic richness shaded with creamy, buttery notes. The palate is a senuous combination of super ripe, decadently heavy fruit, perfect balancing acidity and supreme elegance, with a layered, extended silken finish.

Pure, bright colour, there is a touch of beneficial reduction, while demonstrating the softer approach of Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet compared to neighbouring Bâtard. This is a graceful, ethereal wine, absolutely singing; with the flowers, fruit and minerals all perfectly blended in. Enormously long and really seductive.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Two new barrels and one old have been used in its production. The colour is beautiful, with just a hint of light green. This is magical again – really the perfect balance of ripeness and freshness. A little wood tannin, a little graphite, volumes of finely toned flesh: altogether a very grand Grand Cru.

The 2014 vintage is their first to be certified organic by Ecocert, which will appear on the label. Sadly it is another small crop, no bigger than 2013. While Caroline Lestimé was, as usual, self-deprecating with regards to her wines, we can tell you that they are absolutely stunning this year. We cannot remember a better vintage in her cellar.

This wine was in a very backward state when we tasted in November, so the detail of the fruit was not evident; however the desired weight of fruit is certainly there. It has an enormous concentration on the palate, completed by sparkling acidity and energy. Potentially mind-blowing.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Just two barrels of this were made, both new oak. The nose is discreet; it is too early for the wine to speak, but the palate has everything – oak, pears, a thread of acidity, cashmere texture and great length. Very fine, persistent finish. Drink 2022-2029.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

The biodynamic Bachelet boys, Benoît and Jean-Baptiste, began picking on 3rd September, reporting  very good yields in white, close to the ideal, but down in red. The whites are superb again this year, scarcely showing any sense of heat, but enjoying excellent concentration with good balancing acidity. I would sign up for this every year, says Jean-Baptiste! As always, the wines will stay in barrel for nearly two years before bottling.

Pale in colour with a little touch of green, there is a marvellous sense of concentration but not yet much detail on the nose, showing more weight than Vougeraie's elegant Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. Indeed this is a hugely dense wine demonstrating a succulent richness, with ripe apple notes at the back, yet still perfectly in balance. A major-league wine, this is really stunning. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28^th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.

Jadot's Montrachet is an incredible wine with many high points: sublime perfume, with some notes of orange peel, an overwhelming density of fruit on the palate and length on the finish which just will not lie down. This will be a real treat in years to come, and one to compare with Les Demoiselles.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer - June 2012)

We are thrilled to have a small allocation of this wine from Burgundys greatest white vineyard. There is not space to do it justice here but suffice to say that the fruit bursts out in every possible direction and dimension. Theres an awesome sense of completeness although the detail will take some time to show itself. Do not touch it before its 10 years old and keep a few bottles to celebrate your first telegram from the Queen!

The fortunate Marquis de Laguiche has the biggest holding by far of Le Montrachet with just about 2 hectares. The wine is exceptionally backward at the moment as should perhaps be the case with a wine of this magnitude half way through its lvage but it has a massive presence and a powerfully thick texture which indicate its future quality. Drink 2015-2025+.