Batard--Montrachet

Two new barrels and one old have been used in its production. The colour is beautiful, with just a hint of light green. This is magical again – really the perfect balance of ripeness and freshness. A little wood tannin, a little graphite, volumes of finely toned flesh: altogether a very grand Grand Cru.

The 2014 vintage is their first to be certified organic by Ecocert, which will appear on the label. Sadly it is another small crop, no bigger than 2013. While Caroline Lestimé was, as usual, self-deprecating with regards to her wines, we can tell you that they are absolutely stunning this year. We cannot remember a better vintage in her cellar.

This wine was in a very backward state when we tasted in November, so the detail of the fruit was not evident; however the desired weight of fruit is certainly there. It has an enormous concentration on the palate, completed by sparkling acidity and energy. Potentially mind-blowing.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Pale in colour with a little touch of green, there is a marvellous sense of concentration but not yet much detail on the nose, showing more weight than Vougeraie's elegant Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. Indeed this is a hugely dense wine demonstrating a succulent richness, with ripe apple notes at the back, yet still perfectly in balance. A major-league wine, this is really stunning. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28^th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.

Picked in the sunshine on 28th September, this is a pale, clear yellow, with smoky reduction on some very classy fruit. A huge wealth of multi-layered fruit in the mouth, with exceptional vivacity and a fabulously long finish. Superb in the creamy density of its finish.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

Gagnard's Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru shows a powerful nose with delicate peach notes which lead to amazing intensity, building brilliantly to the back of the palate. This wine is a huge mouthful, with tannins from the new wood helping to complete the structure

The plot is superbly sited within Bâtard and with very old vines. Picked 26th September because it was ripe early, the wine is a fine, pale yellow, with a heavenly fragrance of white peaches, pears, and a touch of buttery banana. A huge, magical mouthful, with a vibrant mineral thread. Really gorgeous.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The harvest began with whites on 26th September, before the rain, then the reds were brought in during less good weather, with sorting necessary. The stems were ripe enough to allow for whole bunch vinification, and Pierre has chosen the soft pedal in 2013: not much punching down, more an infusion approach, less new wood and perhaps a shorter time in barrel. Pierre can see some elements of 2008 but with more weight, more flattering wines overall.

Only two barrels were made this vintage, so it saw 50 percent new oak. This is built for the long term, and aged reductively to minimise the use of SO2. It has very good precision for a Bâtard, which can sometimes be quite big-boned. This still has the trademark richness and weight, but also has some fine contrapuntal notes of quince and spice. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Based in Premeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines have subsequently been made by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages. This is Pierre Vincent’s last vintage, as he is now installed at Domaine Leflaive. Vougeraie is very happy with this year’s result, another domaine to call the vintage “très Bourguigonne”, meaning that the precision and purity of the fruit means this is more terroir-focused than 2015’s broader and more intense style. They are also very happy with the way the frosted and non-frosted vines finally ripened homogenously, giving much of the credit to their biodynamic culture. Given the health of the berries, a lot of whole bunches were used at fermentation.

The nose is rich and brooding, with smoky, bacon-fat notes and a spicy edge. The palate displays ample weight, refined power, bristling acidity and a smoky, gunflint finish. The density and layered complexity of this wine is hugely impressive. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long-aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. Winemaker Franck Grux is very pleased with the quality of the 2016 vintage, although he explained that the frost damage caused grapes to ripen at different times, which required a great deal of patience and necessitated extending the harvest to three weeks, as opposed to the normal two. The Puligny vineyards were relatively lucky in terms of frost damage, giving good yields. Franck explained that he carried out more lees stirring in 2016 than in 2015 to give the wines more weight, feeling that 2016 is a vintage with comparatively modest body and ripeness. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

Sitting next to Domaine Leflaive’s parcel, these vines are farmed biodynamically. The nose is a touch closed, but ripe stone-fruit and exotic lychee burst from the palate. Rounded in profile, but with an understated energy bubbling under the surface, this is unashamedly hedonistic but with the complexity and structure to go the distance. Drink 2025-2035.

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power.Sitting next to Domaine Leflaive’s parcel, these vines are farmed biodynamically. The nose is a touch closed, but ripe stone-fruit and exotic lychee burst from the palate. Rounded in profile, but with an understated energy bubbling under the surface, this is unashamedly hedonistic but with the complexity and structure to go the distance. Drink 2025-2035.

Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

This Bâtard-Montrachet from Benjamin Leroux comes from the Chassagne side, near the top of the vineyard, and has a profound and amazing density which shines through to a wonderful fresh core of minerality.

In common with many wines in the Gagnard cellar this year, this is luscious and quite forward and so Caroline made the blend across the four and a half barrels in late July. Heady and hedonistic, this is terrific fun but is also keeping a little bit in reserve. A lifted bouquet of butterscotch and candied peel is offset by a modicum of pebbly, fruit-stone rigour on the finish. Drink 2025-2032. 

This is sourced from two parcels, 0.2 hectares in all, both on the Chassagne side, planted in 1970 and ’85. The wine has a nose of orange blossom and barley sugar, but there is good freshness too. Well-judged. Drink 2025-2035.

Ben Leroux proudly has 0.1596 hectares of this rarity, and his parcel abuts Le Montrachet at the top of the vineyard. The wine is marked out by its lush, creamy attack, cut with a hint of white pepper and cumin. Beautifully judged this year, with more of an airy feel than some without losing the opulence of Bâtard. Drink 2025-2032.