Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet

There are just three barrels of this, made with purchased grapes – picked by the domaine’s team – from vines planted in 1971. The wine is rich and powerful, but with precise minerality emerging from the mid-palate before finishing on a touch of pleasing sucrosity, while a thread of flinty reduction runs through the wine. Drink 2024-2034.

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. 

Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

Pure, bright colour, there is a touch of beneficial reduction, while demonstrating the softer approach of Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet compared to neighbouring Bâtard. This is a graceful, ethereal wine, absolutely singing; with the flowers, fruit and minerals all perfectly blended in. Enormously long and really seductive.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

Just two barrels of this were made, both new oak. The nose is discreet; it is too early for the wine to speak, but the palate has everything – oak, pears, a thread of acidity, cashmere texture and great length. Very fine, persistent finish. Drink 2022-2029.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

The biodynamic Bachelet boys, Benoît and Jean-Baptiste, began picking on 3rd September, reporting  very good yields in white, close to the ideal, but down in red. The whites are superb again this year, scarcely showing any sense of heat, but enjoying excellent concentration with good balancing acidity. I would sign up for this every year, says Jean-Baptiste! As always, the wines will stay in barrel for nearly two years before bottling.

There are two barrels this year, both new, one each from the barrel-makers François Frères and Chassin. The Chassin element has a superbly exotic and creamy nose, with honeycomb and even a hint of lavender. The François Frères barrel is tighter and less toasty. Together they are sublime. Drink 2025-2035.


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.