Only a tenth of the size of the Castelli di Jesi DOC, the 300ha of vineyards in Verdicchio di Matelica lie up the hill from their more famous counterpart, on mineral-rich calcareous clay soils at a lofty altitude of 400m.
These factors, combined with a continental climate, help produce one of Italy’s very top white wines. Vinification in stainless-steel is combined with lees contact which delivers a rich, complex wine with a pleasing almost salty twist such is the high level of dry extract.
Compared to the formidable, late harvest 2010 vintage, 2011 was earlier, and hence treats us to an earlier, fruitier yet sapid drinkability. Aldo Cifola has remained true to his traditional approach, eschewing oak, and capturing the essence of this classical Marche wine. Pale lemon in colour, the nose is focussed and transparent, with smoky, nutty, cereally notes; I love those cool lemony whiffs, of wet stones that conjure up images of Chablis (with sun), or should that be Trebbiano (d'Abruzzo nextdoor)? Very textural, pure and sleek, the palate is essential, with acacia honey, lemon and white peach stone flavours. It's full but slight at the same time, perfectly balanced at 13.5%, with presence and poise. I'm thinking grilled sea bream or bass. Bravo Aldo. David Berry Green
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David Berry Green