Verdicchio di Matelica

The wine grown in a salt lake. Or rather, a former salt lake.
High up in the Apennines in the eastern province of Marche lies the La Monacesca estate, on the site of an ancient salt-lake of the Palaeolithic era rich in minerals.

The estate was so-called because of the monastery erected by Benedictine Monks who were on the run from the dastardly Lombards in 900 AD.

Fast-forward to 1966, and one Casimiro Cifola purchased the land and began planting Verdicchio. This inland basin not only has a unique soil profile from the host of fossils and minerals left behind by the salt water, but also has a continental-esque microclimate, which brings with it big diurnal temperature swings that add to the complexity of the wine. Perhaps unsurprisingly, “salty minerals” feature in the tasting note of this, the estate’s greatest wine.

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After a bit of a lighter vintage in 2011, Aldo’s greatest wine is really back on form in 2012. A show-stopping nose of honey and salty minerals, the 2012 has just a hint of that tell-tale botrytis typical of this lateharvest, yet dry wine. Great energy on the palate, ripe and rich with a salty intensity, there is great concentration of honeyed fruit with persistent acidity and minerality running through the core. The finish is long and fine. Great vintages of Mirum drink from release, but will age for up to a decade.

Perched high up among the Apennine foothills of the Marche lies the Verdicchio di Matelica producer La Monacesca. While the Verdicchio grape’s existence in the Marche dates back to at least the 16th century, it was the late, great Casimiro Cifola who, in 1966, recognised the potential of the ancient saltlake site, now home to La Monacesca’s 22 hectares, as a place for producing fine wine. His son, Aldo, is now fulfilling that promise with their top wine, the Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva Mirum (so-named after his father), honoured among

The rule is: when it’s a great vintage for late ripening (autochthonous Italian) grape varieties then it’s sure to be good for Verdicchio di Matelica! Consequently 2010 pushes all the buttons with its brilliantly lifted, salivating, lemon/lime zest aromas, grounded in herbal aromas, with an intensity of character that reminds me of (La Colombera’s) Timorasso! Lithe, a beautiful texture of mealy lime and ginger flavours, underpinned by salty minerality. Not quite Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Preuses’ but getting there!
David Berry Green