Nahe

The Nahe river flows north into the Rhine at Bingen at the western end of the Rheingau. The best wines from the Nahe have been described as having the elegance of the Rheingau, the body of a Rheinhessen and the acidity of a Mosel. There are several outstanding producers in the area, but the most celebrated is Helmut Dönnhoff, who produces some of Germany’s finest Rieslings.

Dönnhoff’s Hermannshöhle Riesling is decisively dry with intense lime notes. It’s also supremely noble, with discreet elegance in a Wehlener Sonnenuhr smoky way. The palate is filled with pure lime flavours, Mosel-style, with both immense fruit but also a sublime slate texture. Drinking well for 20 years and beyond, but will be at its best from 2018.

We couldn't harvest all of the frozen grapes in a day,-" explains Donnhoff in a continuation of his Eiswein narrative and an account of his 2009 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein A.P. #36. "But I was ok with that - it didn't matter to me now. In the afternoon came the news -you can fly out tonight- (to Paris for a vacation). The next morning, it was even colder. Now it was my son's chance, and so there is an Eiswein Helmut and an Eiswein Cornelius," namely this A.P. #36. One whiff makes the hairs in my nostrils stand on end.

The wine's prickly pungency is further reflected on the palate, yet along side is a suggestion of creaminess as well as salted caramel and honey from the subtle botrytis concentration that was present before these grapes froze. More viscous and superficially sweet than the A.P. #35, this simultaneously projects intense acidity, even if - as Donnhoff suggests - some acid fell out after the first day's freeze.

Perhaps that effect - or the wine's embryonic state - accounts for the absence of the vibratory intensity that rivets attention on A.P. #35. We have here the same 7.5% alcohol though from more than 20 additional degrees Oechsle because, explains Donnhoff, the yeasts simply couldn't manage any further conversion. For unifying botrytis with frost concentration, and for sheer palate persistence, the elixir in question here is nothing short of phenomenal. "In 20 years," contends Donnhoff with a wry smile and a nod toward this Eiswein, "Cornelius may be able to beat me."
96/100 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2011

This time on grey slate from the village of Norheim, closer to the Rhine & so warmer. As a result the wine is broader, fleshier, pulpier with distinct soft citrus fruit appeal & character while at the same time being delicate & spring water fresh. One for earlier, midterm drinking.
(David Berry Green)

One of Helmut’s favourite vineyards, the 2ha Krotenpfuhl site in the village of Kreuznach nearby always seems to show a delicate, spring-water like character; especially in 2010 with the 35 grams of residual sugar balancing out the highly detailed fruit. Drinking now or will develop till 2020 at least.
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)

In 2012 Cornelius Dönnhoff made three Spatlese all on different vineyards with accordingly divergent soils & aspects. Felsenberg 'Turmchen' is on wholly volcanic soils with a South facing aspect. As you might expect, this gives more weight and a touch of warm topicality to the mid-palate fruit but there is also an excellent balance of acidity. This is a tightly bound and serious wine at the moment, but as the structure unfurls and it begins to show itself off I expect we will see a very impressive wine indeed. Now - 2022.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

From the grey slate vines behind the town of Oberhaus, an archetype Nahe wine. With its elegant but clearly defined musculature, the wine displays complex notes of clementine and red apple, a gentle sweetness of texture and a real purity on the finish.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

Honey-laden minerality on the nose leads to a densely textured palate of impressively  pure flavours of smoky minerals and botrytis can be detected in its silky-textured, rich, and complex personality as well as in its admirably long finish.Drink: 2007-2030