Nahe

The 2016 Nahe Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese is bright, fresh and coolish-piquant on the nose, with flinty and slightly reductive aromas. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a generous, mouth-filling Spätlese with a long, piquant and spicy-mineral finish. The Hermannshöhle is more dense and rich on the palate, the Brücke more light, delicate and finessed.
Stephan Reinhardt - 28/02/2018

We couldn't harvest all of the frozen grapes in a day,-" explains Donnhoff in a continuation of his Eiswein narrative and an account of his 2009 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein A.P. #36. "But I was ok with that - it didn't matter to me now. In the afternoon came the news -you can fly out tonight- (to Paris for a vacation). The next morning, it was even colder. Now it was my son's chance, and so there is an Eiswein Helmut and an Eiswein Cornelius," namely this A.P. #36. One whiff makes the hairs in my nostrils stand on end.

The wine's prickly pungency is further reflected on the palate, yet along side is a suggestion of creaminess as well as salted caramel and honey from the subtle botrytis concentration that was present before these grapes froze. More viscous and superficially sweet than the A.P. #35, this simultaneously projects intense acidity, even if - as Donnhoff suggests - some acid fell out after the first day's freeze.

Perhaps that effect - or the wine's embryonic state - accounts for the absence of the vibratory intensity that rivets attention on A.P. #35. We have here the same 7.5% alcohol though from more than 20 additional degrees Oechsle because, explains Donnhoff, the yeasts simply couldn't manage any further conversion. For unifying botrytis with frost concentration, and for sheer palate persistence, the elixir in question here is nothing short of phenomenal. "In 20 years," contends Donnhoff with a wry smile and a nod toward this Eiswein, "Cornelius may be able to beat me."
96/100 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2011

Fermented in large old 25hl wooden barrels, the wine has more than a Kabinett, white flower feel to it in 2010 being both gentle as well as refreshingly crunchy.
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)

By comparison the Leistenberg vineyard, tucked away on a steep hill behind the Donnhoff's village of Oberhausen, is noticeacibly cooler, shier even, that comes from both the morning sun it receives, compounded by the clay & grey slate soil profile. Vintage dependent, the vineyard seems to have wallowed in 2011, thanks perhaps to being shielded from the heat of the sun; allowing extended hang-time. It shows great energy, crisp fruity acidity & should develop well in bottle.
David Berry Green

From one of the great vineyards in Germany, Donnhoff have produced another seamless and superb Spatlese. Showing all the purity of the vintage, this has an effortless richness, yet is not sweet or cloying. Very finely balanced, this has a finish that lasts over a minute. Delicious even now, this will be at its best given 5 to 10 years in the cellar. Bravo! 2018 - 2025.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager

As ever, Eiswein is the very pinnacle of the range. The 2012 Oberhauser Brücke was picked under near perfect conditions with very little disease pressure. This echos into the wine – for all the weight and complexity here this Eiswein is pin sharp, perfectly clear fruit purity. With such weight and purity it really is very hard to see how this wine could have been any better. The only decision really is for how long to leave it in your cellar, drinking from 2014 to 2050 – and beyond.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

Time makes a great wine, with Helmut waiting until the end of November before harvesting these grapes. Blessed with c. 30% botrytis, there’s a gentle refinement, a barley-sugar perfume, a stony coolness; the 110 grams of residual sugar matched by electric acidity. Pinpoint pure. Drinking from 2020.
(David Berry Green, Berry's Germany Buyer)

Compared to the lush loamy curves of Oberhäuser Brücke, Hermannshöhle hard grey slate gives for a mountain stream-like rush of purity. It’s decidedly more structured than the Brücke; nobler; the calcareous elements leeched out of the slate and into the wine, quite literally. Aristocratic. Stunning power. Drinking from 2025
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)

A tremendous wine-making effort from a superlative vintage. Aromatically intense , this minerals & peach-scented 2005 Kabinett displays a satin-textured and creamy palate, hiding a powerful underlying minerality, excellent fruit richness, and a very long finish. Drink it over the next 10 years.