Brouilly

For proof positive of the capacity of Beaujolais to supply world class wines at an affordable price, look no further than Château Thivin, in Côte de Brouilly. Sept vignes is, ostensibly, the domaine’s most “basic” cuvée, but it shows remarkable complexity and finesse, and will continue to improve over the next decade (and perhaps beyond). It is sourced from seven parcels, with a variety of aspects and soils – mostly blue and pink granite – around the volcanic hill of Brouilly. Approximately a third of the grapes in this cuvée are de-stemmed.
The nose combines flamboyant aromas of strawberry compote, blueberry and more subtle savoury notes, which will become more distinct with the passing years.
The theme of cheerful red and blue fruit continues on the palate. This is riper and less austere than, say, the cuvée Godefroy, but has the same beguiling saline character to the finish.
Try it with carpaccio or tartare de bœuf.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer

Brulhié, the ancient name for Brouilly, derives from the word brûlé (burnt), and Morello cherries (griottes) were once grown on this propitious five-hectare site, which was re-purposed by an ancestor of today’s winemaker Claude-Edouard Geoffray, whose family have owned the domaine since 1877.

It is no coincidence then that this fabulous cuvée, from south-facing vines that ripen rapidly in deep, hospitable soils, has a distinct whiff of wood-smoke and caramel. In one of those quirks of terroir and fate that abound in Burgundy and Beaujolais, there is also an unmistakable red-cherry character to both the nose and palate. The long finish delivers a cool cranberry crunch. So, a wine that does – with considerable style – exactly what it says on the label.