Brouilly is the largest and most southerly of the ten Beaujolais Crus as well as also being one of the few not to be named after a local village. Its 1200ha of vineyards curl round the volcanic Mont Brouilly, producing fruity, round, textured wines which can be reasonably tannic and often show earthy notes.
Most should be drunk in 3-4 years but the most age-worthy styles from top producers in top vintages can last up to a decade. It is also the only Cru, along with its sister appellation Côte de Brouilly, to allow grapes other than Gamay to be planted – in this case Chardonnay, Aligoté and Melon de Bourgogne – although few choose to take advantage.
Exceptionally steep slopes of granite and schist endow the best wines of the Côte de Brouilly with a complexity and minerality rarely found in those of the flatter vineyards of Brouilly (a separate Cru, which loops around the first). In 2017, this cuvée’s mineral core seems enrobed in rich, ripe dark fruit, suggestive of the vines’ location – a south-facing parcel, mid-slope (where cherries once grew, hence the name). It’s a seductive prospect now but will only improve with time in bottle. Drink now to 2023. Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2018)
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Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2018)