Clos du Roi

All whole-bunch vinified, this year’s Clos du Roi is a lovely, clear pink-purple. The nose is very fresh and pure, more raspberry than strawberry, with an underlying spice and the sweet fruit bursting through. Magical on the palate, this is a vibrant, delicious wine.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

An excellent, medium deep colour heralds an elegantly fragrant nose, with a great deal behind. This is sensitively handled – it’s by no means a blockbuster and is very sensual in the mouth with a long finish. David’s deft touch with Corton continues.

Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.

Showing a brambly, briary nose, this Corton from Domaine de Montille has a huge wealth of fruit on the palate, tremendous length and a seductively persistent aftertaste.

Medium deep purple, with a very sensual nose and impressive density too. Very appealing with great length to it, a lively rose petal fragrance. From the whole bunches, and a superb long finish. A Corton of great beauty.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

This great domaine has grown even further with the acquisition of some vineyards, such as Meursault Perrières, to enhance the white wine range, vinified by Alix de Montille. The reds continue the progress seen in recent years from the team led by Etienne de Montille with the assistance of cellarmaster Brian Sieve. All the top wines are vinified with 100% whole bunches which defines the very perfumed style of the domaine’s wines

This is an elegant expression of Corton. A sweet kernel of mesmerising red fruit draws one in before the chalky, limestone structure gives a welcome reminder of the seriousness and class of this site. There is not huge power here, but there is wonderful finesse. Subtle, nuanced. Drink 2025-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In January 2002 Maison Camille Giroud was bought by an American consortium led by banker Joe Wender and winery-owner Ann Colgin, and a new chapter began. David Croix was installed as the winemaker/ technical director and tasked with a major revamping of the winemaking facilities and especially replacement and renewal of the old barrels to make wines in a much purer, more modern style. The company also owns 1.2 hectares of vineyards in and around Beaune. The 2016 vintage was a collaborative effort between the outgoing David Croix and his replacement, Carel Voorhuis, formerly of Domaine d’Ardhuy. The transition is a smooth one, with Carel’s gentle touch following on seamlessly from David’s elegant style. Carel described the 2016 vintage as lighter than 2015, with more elegance and better balance. It is clear he has a preference for 2016, highlighting the expressive, aromatic characteristics of the wines and calling them “ethereal”. He explained that it was important to avoid over-ripeness by picking in good time, and emphasised the value of gentle extraction to prevent obtaining hard tannins.

Whole bunches are down to 66 percent here (versus 100 percent for the rich, structured 2015); new oak was maintained at 50 percent. The wine has an exceptional perfume; energetic, pure and dark. There is also very good structure on the palate – not too dense as this vineyard can sometimes be. The vintage's precision is especially evident in this wine. Drink 2022-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

One-hundred percent whole-bunch, 55 percent new wood; this is deep and bright purple, with a fine depth of dark black cherry fruit on the nose. Dense crushed fruit notes continue across the palate, backed up by some quality oak. This still needs a little more barrel maturation to knit together. Drink 2022-2038.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.