Domaine Hubert Lamy

Again, this is an attractive pale primrose colour. Its rich, beguiling nose is redolent of pears and plums. The weight is there: it’s soft, rounded and mouthfilling, very complete, very long and with enough tension. This is completed by a superb finish with a little lively lemony note.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

The perfectionist Olivier first picked the younger vines, then came back for the older ones. The nose has a certain opulence while the palate delivers a long, lean finish. The wine appears to want to deliver peaches but finishes with apples. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Lamy compares the 2015 reds as being similar to ‘05 with less stress, or ‘09 with more energy. As they offered good colour and tannin, he was able to use 60 to 80 percent whole bunches. Picking began on 25th August, starting with whites to keep their acidity. Overall, however, the red crop is down 50 percent and the whites by 20 to 25 percent thanks to coulure and millerandage after the flowering. Olivier has used no new wood in 2015 and no sulphur for the vinification – some will be added before bottling. Olivier notes that the whites have been tasting fresher and fresher during their time in barrel.

Fine and bright, the wine is pale in colour. This has beautiful nervous tension, with real elegance to the fruit, and a fabulous finish. Sheer class. The higher elevation of this vineyard has played its part. First-rate wine. Drink 2020-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Lamy compares the 2015 reds as being similar to ‘05 with less stress, or ‘09 with more energy. As they offered good colour and tannin, he was able to use 60 to 80 percent whole bunches. Picking began on 25th August, starting with whites to keep their acidity. Overall, however, the red crop is down 50 percent and the whites by 20 to 25 percent thanks to coulure and millerandage after the flowering. Olivier has used no new wood in 2015 and no sulphur for the vinification – some will be added before bottling. Olivier notes that the whites have been tasting fresher and fresher during their time in barrel.

With concentrated red fruits and some black cherry notes, this has an impressive density of crunchy fruit on the palate; it will benefit from a couple of years to round out.

The grapes for this wine are the last to be picked for a red wine. As such, it feels perfectly ripe and has very engaging cherry fruit. This is a little more tannic than Olivier’s Santenay Clos des Hâtes, with good density behind and excellent length.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director 2011 delivered a correctly sized crop in white wines but again a shortfall in red. Olivier Lamy feels that the poor weather in August was, in fact, helpful as it preserved freshness in a very precocious year. Olivier has renewed his barrel cellar over the last few years, moving to the larger demi-muid size but, now this process has been achieved, the proportion of new oak has been reduced.

---

This is the first vineyard to be harvested every year, with warmer soils, and it wasn’t frosted either. It offers a richer style, but with the freshness still pertinent. Olivier likes the maturity of the vintage, but feels it just needed more rain in August. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

This is from 55-year-old vines. Olivier likes to do 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation, allowing him to layer whole bunches and de-stemmed berries alternately (millefeuille). This has a lovely, accessible, juicy, raspberry-sundae fruit and the tannins are light but supportive. Drink 2021-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.