Domaine Hubert Lamy

Here there is gravel over limestone and some new oak (30 percent) has been permitted. There is a beautiful lightness of touch, none of the slightly firm, earthy character that can appear in red Santenay. The finish is surprisingly lush and the tannins suave. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

The clue is in the name of the vineyard, where there is some gravel, and also clay in the upper part, which is where Olivier has his Pinot Noir. The wine has good ripeness and even a sense of lushness on the midpalate. Not at all angular; this is very well-judged. Drink 2020-2024.


This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines ascroquant (crunchy).

This is pale primrose in appearance, with a more accessible bouquet of spring flowers and light fruits. This is full and fleshy, with medium density through the middle. Note the sapid and saline finish, says Olivier.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

45 year old vines. Mid purple with a pleasing gentle dark red fruit nose, after a trace of reduction blows off. When tasted in October the wine was still very backward but it will certainly come round.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

This is a blend of Olivier’s various village parcels. The volume is way down; only five barrels instead of 20, and he declassified a lot to Bourgogne Blanc. This is very fresh, with plenty of racy acidity, very much like the 2014, but without some of the flesh. Drink 2019-2022.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

This vineyard is on a south-facing slope overlooking the winery. Pale fresh lemon colour, pure light and lively fruit on the nose, even more concentrated white fruit on the palate with excellent weight and good balancing acidity. Persistent. Some citrus fruit at the finish. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

With concentrated red fruits and some black cherry notes, this has an impressive density of crunchy fruit on the palate; it will benefit from a couple of years to round out.

A new plantation has come on stream here so the crop was not as truncated as elsewhere in 2012. The bouquet will need time to develop the palate already shows an unctuous richness, a sense of the quality to come. 
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

Olivier is moving this vineyard to higher density planting, although the full benefits may take a decade. More voluble than his St Aubin reds, this is juicy and quite succulent. Drink 2021-2026.

Although the name suggests a gravel soil, much of the vineyard is on white marlstone. Its warmer character gives a more generous, citrus style and offers a rounder wine in the Lamy range. Drink 2021-2026.

From 10 parcels over three hectares of village St Aubin, this is aged mostly in larger 500- and 600-litre foudres, with about 10% in new barrels. Always with pinpoint freshness, this year the warmth of the vintage is still not really in evidence. Cool and assertive. Drink 2021-2024.

For this wine, Olivier likes to make a millefeuille in the cuve for fermentation – layering whole bunches and de-stemmed fruit, to better integrate the tannins. The result is proper, crunchy Pinot Noir. Drink 2021-2026.