Domaine Francois Buffet

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

On the northwest edge of the village, this monopole produces surprisingly delicate wines, further enhanced by Marco’s already gentle style. All  de-stemmed this year, it’s floral and subtly seductive  in true Volnaysien style. Drink 2022-2027.


As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can

Between 25 and 30 percent whole-bunch was incorporated here, giving an ethereal floral character to the nose. There is lovely supple fruit on entry, with surprisingly good density and understated power on the mid-palate. The floral character found on the nose comes back at the finish, haunting. Volnay de garde! Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

A majestic Volnay. One-third whole-bunch adds some sweet perfume to the firmer core of the wine, coming from the stonier part of the vineyard. The perfume is delightful, of violet and dog rose, and therefore not too perfumed, and there is a beguiling flexibility as its different facets are teased across the palate. Drink 2023-2028.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

Marco has more than one barrel of his flagship wine for the first time in several years – four to be precise, allowing a diminution of the new wood percentage  to 25 percent. Famously from vines over 100 years  old and, astonishingly, providing over 40hl/ha this year. The wine oozes with the silky texture of oldvine fruit, and there is 25 percent whole-bunch to complement the vineyard’s iron-rich contribution. Drink 2025-2031.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

This comes from 50-year-old vines, almost young by Buffet standards! It has a similar lively, but not dense, colour with an exquisitely perfumed, graceful, light, red-fruit bouquet. The whole-bunch component makes it even more ethereal. The wine has a heavenly middle ground, with very sensual raspberry, ripe cherry and a long finish. Drink 2022-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation  to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.

Pretty pink-red, with lovely elegant fruit on the nose and a really appealing mix of raspberry and strawberry. This is a Volnay drinker’s Volnay. Silky, rose petals and really very good finish.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Each time we have tasted Marc-Olivier Buffet’s 2013’s we have liked them more and more. His ‘softly softly’ approach to the vintage, with very little whole bunch fermentation and very light extraction has paid off. With skilled de-stemming he aimed for whole berries but not whole bunches in the vats.

From the well placed Gigotte and Famines vineyards, this is a fine, medium red-purple, brightly perfumed and very pretty. The wine has beautifully sensual fruit, heading towards the ethereal, with nice acidity, graceful red berries, alpine strawberry and good persistence. Drink 2020-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc-Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months.

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.