Domaine Francois Buffet

From one barrel in 2016 to 19 in 2017: Marco has had to bottle two barrels already to satisfy demand at the cellar door. This is beautifully lush and enticing, with notes of sloe and vanilla, the latter not from oak but creamy maturity. Drink 2019-2023.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

This is a monopole located just outside the more rustic Frémiets vineyard. Pale ruby in colour, the Clos de la Rougeotte has a lovely, lifted, red-berry nose. The palate has charming, juicy strawberry notes and a delicate structure that dances across the palate. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

On the northwest edge of the village, this monopole produces surprisingly delicate wines, further enhanced by Marco’s already gentle style. All  de-stemmed this year, it’s floral and subtly seductive  in true Volnaysien style. Drink 2022-2027.


As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can

Marco has more than one barrel of his flagship wine for the first time in several years – four to be precise, allowing a diminution of the new wood percentage  to 25 percent. Famously from vines over 100 years  old and, astonishingly, providing over 40hl/ha this year. The wine oozes with the silky texture of oldvine fruit, and there is 25 percent whole-bunch to complement the vineyard’s iron-rich contribution. Drink 2025-2031.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

There were low yields here after some drought stress in the lower part of the vineyard. This delivers concentration with a useful firmness of touch through the middle, a long linear presence and a persistent finish. Drink 2021-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation  to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.

Light purple in the glass, there is an intriguing hint of sweet spice – ginger even – on the nose, and masses of black fruit on the palate. The round, ripe tannins and gentle acidity make this a sunny, sensual wine.

Glowing pale purple, with a heavenly hillside Volnay scent of vibrant cherry and raspberry fruit, this is really elegant, yet with a fine core of concentrated fruit. The grapes were healthy enough to allow a small percentage of whole bunches here.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Each time we have tasted Marc-Olivier Buffet’s 2013’s we have liked them more and more. His ‘softly softly’ approach to the vintage, with very little whole bunch fermentation and very light extraction has paid off. With skilled de-stemming he aimed for whole berries but not whole bunches in the vats.
 

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Favourite Newcomers
Specialising in Volnay, the estate suffered losses of almost 70% in 2012, but the wines are delicious. Clos de la Rougeotte is a monopole located near the village. Lovely sweet fruit, with crunchy freshness and lacy tannins. The delicateness of the wine is very attractive and this will be approachable early.
Fine Wine Team

Bright and clean dark fruit on the nose Clear, pure and bright fruit on the palate, concentrated but delicate and lacy, very Volnay. The finish brings in some ripe, fine tannins to bring balance. A lovely wine.
Chris Pollington, Fine Wine

A ‘Monopole’ this year but only a single barrel was made, exclusive to Berry Bros & Rudd. A rich, red purple in colour, with an excellent volume of fruit on the nose, this is more accessible than the Taillepieds. There is great weight of deep strawberry fruit on the palate and impressive persistence.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

We have bought wines from domaine François Buffet in previous vintages, but this is the first year that they are appearing in the Opening Offer. Marc-Olivier Buffet, son of François, is the man in charge. He has a superb range of Premiers Crus in Volnay and Pommard, and though he managed to make them all in 2012, volumes are minute: below 10 hl/ha. He did not use many stems in 2012 and such is the concentration of the wines that he will give them a longer barrel maturation than usual. Beautiful wines with great aromatics, and keen pricing to boot!

Only one and a half barrels were made and this Volnay Taillepieds, 1er Cru has a good, bright colour and an energetic bouquet of rich red fruit, supported by new wood. This is notably weighty in 2012, even a touch austere, but the concentration is unquestionably there.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

We have bought wines from this domaine in previous vintages, but this is the first year that they are appearing in the Opening Offer. Marc-Olivier Buffet, son of François, is the man in charge. He has a superb range of Premiers Crus in Volnay and Pommard, and though he managed to make them all in 2012, volumes are minute: below 10 hl/ha. He did not use many stems in 2012 and such is the concentration of the wines that he will give them a longer barrel maturation than usual. Beautiful wines with great aromatics, and keen pricing to boot.

Marc-Olivier has some fine old vines in this premium vineyard – for many the epitome of Volnay. There’s one-third whole-bunch again this year and the fragrance of the terroir still shines through. Drink 2023-2030.

The fruit here is sourced from the lieux-dits Les Famines and La Gigotte, the latter a little higher on the slope. It’s down a little in volume on 2017, to 13 barrels. The wine is very welcoming, open structured and appealing, full of ripe red fruit and a pleasing, lush top note. Drink now to 2024.

This comes from 100-year-old vines on Rugiens’s iron-rich soil, Pommard’s finest. A brooding, lowering presence on the nose, there’s a fist of dark fruit and intent on the palate. Unique. Drink 2026-2035.

This monopole of the domaine lies on the northern edge of the village and yields a delicate, fragrant red, very much in the understated Buffet style. Red-fruited and well-mannered. Drink 2023-2028.

This wine’s cellar nickname is “le p’tit gros”, the little fat one. It has typical Champans chunkiness, fleshed out by old vines and a third whole-bunch. Really creamy with growing intensity. Drink 2026-2032.

This is always a thrilling wine at this address. Sixty-year-old, very millerandé (so low-yielding) vines on stony soil give heady yet rigorous aromas that then diffuse into the velvety palate. Drink 2024-2030.