Saint-Joseph
St Joseph is the second-largest appellation in the Northern Rhône with 50 growers producing wines from over 600 hectares of vineyards. Established in 1956, over 90 percent of the wine is red – made exclusively from the Syrah grape; the whites are typically a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. The best St Josephs are still produced in its original heartland, between St Jean-de-Muzols and Mauves.
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Maison Chapoutier,
For laying down,
This cuvee is mainly matured in concrete vats, with only 30% of the wine seeing oak. This brings a real focus on the purity of fruit. The nose is dark and dense with lots of blackberry fruit. A good mineral streak runs through the palate which is well-structured with firm tannins. Drink 2020-2025.
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Ready, but will keep,
The Silice displays a very pretty Syrah profile with bright red-berry fruits and red liquorice spice. Floral and linear in profile, the absence of any new oak makes the primary fruit the focus. The tannins are carefully managed with a juiciness and subtlety to them that mirrors the texture of the palate. Drink now to 2023.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Ready, but will improve,
This is a “sélection parcellaire” coming from vines that are over 60 years old, in the northern part of St Joseph. Thanks to time in 25% new French oak, this wine displays an attractive sweet spice and cedar aroma. Rich and generous in body, its subtle smoky and meaty notes support the luxurious red and black fruit. Concentrated and complex. Drink 2020-2028.
Ready, but will keep,
Sourced from 60-year-old vines in the commune of St Jean de Muzols, l’Olivaie is aged half in barrique and half in demi-muid. Nothing exceptional there, but it is segregated because of its power and extraordinarily dense texture; a velvet underground beyond the granite, clearly. Impressive of length and structure, this wine richly deserves its separate bottling and critical adulation. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Pierre Gonon,
For laying down,
Jean Gonon is one of the most likeable winemakers in the valley and there was universal applause when this outstanding estate, run with biodynamic rigour, was recently awarded the rare accolade of a third star in the Revue des Vins de France. Three stars is top stars for the top stars and seldom awarded. The 2015, unsurprisingly, demonstrates what all the fuss is about; Syrah at its purest, most honest and most profoundly rewarding. Drink 2019-2027.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Pierre Gaillard,
Ready, but will improve,
Planted in 1981 by Pierre himself, shortly after
leaving the house of Vidal Fleury, Cuminaille is now
one of the greatest wines in St Joseph, an eloquent
expression of northern Syrah and a worthy leitmotif
for all the progress made in this diverse and once
rather misunderstood appellation. Pierre destems
completely and uses a system of pigeage to achieve
gentle extraction from the mature vines. Aromatic
integrity, softly persuasive peppery tannins and a
linearity which marks out this vintage are all expertly
captured in this seminal example. Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
leaving the house of Vidal Fleury, Cuminaille is now
one of the greatest wines in St Joseph, an eloquent
expression of northern Syrah and a worthy leitmotif
for all the progress made in this diverse and once
rather misunderstood appellation. Pierre destems
completely and uses a system of pigeage to achieve
gentle extraction from the mature vines. Aromatic
integrity, softly persuasive peppery tannins and a
linearity which marks out this vintage are all expertly
captured in this seminal example. Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
For laying down,
This hails from 80-year-old vines grown at low yields, with a production of a mere 5,000 bottles. As usual, 50 percent of stems are maintained, engendering a more cerebral edgy wine than its siblings, but well worth the intellectual investment. Bold ripe black fruits, then spice, complexity, velvety tannic grip and a powerful finish. Drink 2021-2026+.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Pierre Gaillard,
For laying down,
The nose is floral and spicy with honey, hawthorn and beeswax notes, and the tropical aromas kept in check for this 100% Roussanne St Joseph Blanc. The slightly glycerol, oily texture contrasts well with grapefruit-pith acidity. Verbena and camomile hints add complex layers. Drink now to 2025.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Ready, but will keep,
The best of Yves’s three St Joseph wines, the vines are located near Chavanay and mostly over 40 years of age. Les Serines is a worthy ambassador to the on-going re-appraisal of this appellation, all of it positive. A powerful smoky nose is followed by a palate which combines earthy notes with mulberry fruit and a herbal backdrop. It is the poise and definition on the finish which underline the merits of appellation and producer alike. Oh, and the vintage!
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Ready, but will improve,
Domaine Pierre Gaillard,
Drink now,
Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
Another classic St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille wine from one of the masters of the genre. Lovely ripe fruit coupled with a beautifully balanced structure with mouth-watering acidity and ripe, rounded tannins, with just a hint of liquorice on the finish.
(Chris Pollington, BBR Fine Wine)
It was the old-vine Cuminaille cuvée which really propelled Pierre Gaillard into the limelight and it is great to see that it is still such an extraordinary wine. Floral aromatics with hints of herbs and autumnal earth lead to a finely structured palate with elegant tannins, plenty of red berried fruit and good length.
(Simon Field MW BBR Buyer)
Another classic St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille wine from one of the masters of the genre. Lovely ripe fruit coupled with a beautifully balanced structure with mouth-watering acidity and ripe, rounded tannins, with just a hint of liquorice on the finish.
(Chris Pollington, BBR Fine Wine)
It was the old-vine Cuminaille cuvée which really propelled Pierre Gaillard into the limelight and it is great to see that it is still such an extraordinary wine. Floral aromatics with hints of herbs and autumnal earth lead to a finely structured palate with elegant tannins, plenty of red berried fruit and good length.
(Simon Field MW BBR Buyer)
Ready, but will keep,
Jean-Louis is John the Baptiste to the re-emerging St Joseph appellation, if you will pardon the blasphemy. Despite the family’s association with the hill of Hermitage, it is across the river in Mauves where the family have resided over the centuries and it is here in St Joseph where he has bought and completely transformed the famous Clos Florentin estate. Indeed some of the estate fruit finds its way into this (négociant) offering; it is poised and powerful, with dark cherry and spice, finely etched tannins and a long finish. Far from discrete, at the bottom of the composition is etched the signature of the master. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Showing 1-20 out of 20 items
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Yves Cuilleron compares 2012 to 2011; for him the vintage has more concentration and power than its immediate forebear. His house philosophy, whether by accident or design, mirrors the current fashions for later harvests and the addition of a varying degree of stems. Both engender structure and complexity when treated with due respect. Given that there is not the remotest sign of the green on the one hand or the over-ripe on the other, we can infer conspicuous success in these wines.