Saint-Joseph

Christine proves once again that she is more than proficient with red as well as white grapes. The vines are located on the granitic slopes behind Chavanay in the north of the appellation. This 100 percent Syrah exhibits plenty of red fruit charm, but with polished, ‘proper’ tannins from one-year-old barriques, and a fresh, hedgerow character, with hints of crushed rock, bay leaf and sousbois on the finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.

Pierre’s first wine, way back when, on leaving Vidal-Fleury, was St Joseph from this sandy granitic plot just to the south of Chavanay, which now covers five hectares. Berry Bros. & Rudd have followed this one pretty much from the beginning, 30 odd years ago. With both vines and vigneron gaining maturity, the wine is impressively complex, wearing its 40 percent new oak with considerable poise and boasting plenty of attractive ripe fruit, with an intriguingly complex finish – spicy, edgy and yet beautifully clean. Drink 2018-2024.
Simon Fields MW, Wine Buyer

In glorious counterpoint to the equally flamboyant Michel Chapoutier, Pierre Gaillard only cultivates Roussanne amongst the white grapes. For him the tension engendered between its naturally flamboyant personality and a stark granitic backdrop engender real complexity and gastronomic potential. The 2016 is a perfect illustration of this self-assured confidence; 8 months in Allier and Nevers oak, of which 5 percent is new, with gentle battonnage, have secured a rounded, gently creamy personality. Poached pear, nectarine and soft spice are all evidenced. Generous and flamboyant certainly, there is a cerebral tension and finely etched finish. This wine captures the personality of the man with great accuracy! Drink now to 2022.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Cuminaille has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, and was indeed one of M Gaillard’s first projects on leaving Vidal Fleury (then not owned by Guigal) in the late 1970s. The quality is as good as ever, with a relatively short cuvaison indicative of both the quality and power of the fruit itself, which sings of cassis, sloe and myrtle, with bay, cocoa and hints of dark chocolate in the wings.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Planted in 1981 by Pierre himself, shortly after
leaving the house of Vidal Fleury, Cuminaille is now
one of the greatest wines in St Joseph, an eloquent
expression of northern Syrah and a worthy leitmotif
for all the progress made in this diverse and once
rather misunderstood appellation. Pierre destems
completely and uses a system of pigeage to achieve
gentle extraction from the mature vines. Aromatic
integrity, softly persuasive peppery tannins and a
linearity which marks out this vintage are all expertly
captured in this seminal example. Drink 2019-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Vineyards in Chavanay and Sarras are the source of this excellent St Joseph. The grapes are completely destemmed and aged in 30 percent new wood for 18 months. Ripe red and black fruits provide an indulgent cocktail, with a pleasing peppery backdrop buttressed by finely poised tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Irrepressibly cheerful as ever, François Villard shrugs at the 30 to 40 percent drop in yields in 2013, attributing the phenomenon to nature’s way of evening things out, a truism with which it is hard to argue. The slightly higher than normal levels of malic acid he sees as more relevant in terms of potential quality; once the malolactic fermentations were completed however, this problem redressed itself and wines of equilibrium and charm resulted. All things balance out in the end, it seems.

Jérôme acknowledges that 2015 was “précoce” (it sounds better in French, as does so much) but argues that its fruits do not want for complexity. This he attributes to relatively cool August nights. Beyond this almost gnomic logic there is a very typical Silice: ripe, generous and comely. Elegant and, to use another delightful French word, souple, this is a joyful paean to a delightful vintage. Drink 2019-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Boasting a wealth of silky red and black fruits, this wine is poised and perfumed. Underlying spices and notes of sousbois perfectly complement the structure. The 2016 has a wonderfully refreshing and clean finish, courtesy of the mild season and inherent fruit quality. Drink 2019-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

My only “issue” with this gem of a wine is that it is made in such small volume, which usually entails an indecorous scramble for an allocation. Well worth it, of course, as it is rare to encounter such a forthcoming Marsanne, its citric and orchard fruit personality mapped onto a denser more complex structure, honied and beautifully layered. Drink 2019-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

There is often, chez Ferraton, one wine which really stands out, in this case because of its pure granitic splendour. The eponymous St Joseph lieu-dit is fantastically located, on the steep slopes behind Tournon and in 2013 the naturally benevolent backdrop has been translated into a rich, berry-fruit, peppery compôte of pleasure and potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here. Even better than the Paradis, the 2013 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit St Joseph sports drop-dead gorgeous notes of black raspberry, creme de cassis, spring flowers and underbrush. Full-bodied, seamless and with striking elegance in its pure, balanced profile, this gorgeous looking Saint Joseph will evolve nicely for 10-15 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014 In contrast to the Patou, the 2013 Cornas les Eygats comes from a higher elevation site and is one of the last to be harvested. It exhibits lots of floral, violets, sappy herbs and sweet black raspberries to go with a medium-bodied, seamless, elegant style on the palate. It shows the more elegant, seamless side to the appellation and can be drink anytime over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

One-hundred percent de-stemming and with just under 10 percent of new wood, the 2014 is particularly successful. The 85 percent granitic slopes have yielded a bright and finely textured wine, with supple tannins, mirror-bright acidity and plenty of depth. The first four words to be etched into the tasting book were; “tobacco, smoke, violets” and “outstanding”. 
Drink 2017-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

L’Olivaie is the branded name given to the fruits of magnificent 60-year-old vines located at St Jean de Muzols at the northern edge of the so-called cradle of St Joseph. Having enjoyed an upbringing in 25 percent new wood, with the balance shared between barrel and demi-muid, the 2016 has blacker fruits than Silice, but the integrated yet ripe tannin profile is very much le style de la maison. It may not completely work in translation but Jérôme describes this one as jovial. A bringer of joy, certainly. Drink 2021-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The top cuvée from Villa’s stable, matured for 24 months in oak with some of it new; we have come to expect great things of this wine with each and every passing vintage. The nose is full of silky dark fruit, violets and schist whilst on the palate, the tannins and acidity combine with pleasing concentration to produce a wine with a sense of place as well as an air of refinement. 
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying

The 2012 Saint Joseph Tilde (100% Syrah) is a modern style of Rhône wine, with a suave texture, medium-bodied richness and intense fruit flavours of blackberries, smoked cured meat and peppery nuances. Showing soft tannins and a good length on the finish, this solid effort will enjoy a decade of longevity and development.
Eva Polaki, Wine Team

The Sensonne, matured in 100% new wood, has had a very successful outing in 2011; its heart of dark morello fruit and soft spice is in no way overwhelmed by the ambitious winemaking – quite the reverse.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.

100% de-stemming and only 10% new wood was used for the 2011; this is indicative of the pleasingly pragmatic philosophy employed here (2010 differed on both counts). The 85% granitic slopes have yielded a bright and finely textured wine with supple tannins, mirror-bright acidity and plenty of depth.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.

These famous precipitous vines behind Mauves are over 80 years old. Once again the new oak employed is scant and the focus is on purity and generous primary fruit; in this case there is a velvety attack but with intimations of firm granite providing a solid backdrop. This is an impressive effort in a rather unusual vintage.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.

100% destemmed and picked relatively late, the Paradis coaxes complexity from the 80-year-old vines and uncompromising granitic soils. The emphasis on teroir is underlined by the fact that only 10% of the oak employed is new; the 2012 is engagingly complex.  
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Phlegmatic and industrious , Jérôme has worked his way to the top of the appellation, quite literally when he is working his precipitous Paradis St Pierre vineyard, magisterial  and dressed in granite, high above the village of Mauves. In 2012 he was wary of rot during the humid spring, and then anxious about the ‘canicule’ in August. Ultimately he was happy and rates the vintage very highly, as do we.

Most Exciting Wines of the Vintage:  St Joseph, Les Serines, Domaine Yves Cuilleron
Yves' range boasts a plethora of superbly crafted, different cuvées but for me this one stood out, as it has done in past vintages. Of his St Joseph wines this one comes from the oldest vines, displaying immense concentration wrapped up in a robe of sublime elegance and purity. The tannins are very finegrained, the balance is perfect and there is a seamless harmony between all the component parts. From the more southern vineyards of Yves’ 18 hectares in St Jospeh, Les Serines is sourced from 40-year-old vines and aged for 18 months. It displays classic St Joseph shape and purity, with fine minerality and almost Burgundian red-fruit charm in the mid-palate.

The St Joseph lieu-dit within the greater appellation is located directly behind the ancient château of Tournon, its steeply terraced vines providing a scenic backdrop for this old Ardèche monument. The blend is weighted 95 percent Marsanne to five percent Roussanne and aged for a year in new barrels. The wine has classic Marsanne descriptors of flowers, smoke and roasted almond, happily transferred to the palate which is generously textured, finely structured and agreeably long.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The Guigal dynasty continues to lead the way in the valley-north and south-with some lines made in huge volumes, others pitifully scarce; some at entry price points, some frighteningly expensive. Quality seems to underwrite the entire range, however, much to the credit of all concerned, and these two white wines illustrate this point brilliantly. One of the top whites in the appellation, Guigal’s 2013 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit Saint Joseph Blanc comes from the pure granite soils of the namesake vineyard of the appellation and is a blend of 93% Marsanne and 7% Roussanne. It was aged in slightly less new oak in 2013 (prior vintages saw 100% new) with the goal to make it more approachable on release. Now aged 12 months in two-thirds new and one-third 2-year-old barrels, it sports a medium-gold color to go with sensational notes of crème brulee, caramelized peach, toast and almond paste, with additional minerality emerging on the palate. Full-bodied, rich and textured, it's a serious Saint Joseph Blanc that will stand toe-to-toe with some top white Hermitage. Drink it over the coming decade or more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014

Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
Another classic St Joseph Clos de Cuminaille wine from one of the masters of the genre. Lovely ripe fruit coupled with a beautifully balanced structure with mouth-watering acidity and ripe, rounded tannins, with just a hint of liquorice on the finish.
(Chris Pollington, BBR Fine Wine)

It was the old-vine Cuminaille cuvée which really propelled Pierre Gaillard into the limelight and it is great to see that it is still such an extraordinary wine. Floral aromatics with hints of herbs and autumnal earth lead to a finely structured palate with elegant tannins, plenty of red berried fruit and good length.
(Simon Field MW BBR Buyer)

Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
With plenty of bright and red & black fruit, allied to ripe tannins and a great structure, the 2009 St Joseph 'Silice' is a fine example of this up and coming commune.
(Fergus Stewart, BBR Fine Wine) Jérôme describes the 2009 vintage as powerful and robust and the power is certainly evidenced in the Silice, which has a rich texture and a real weight of damson and cherry fruit. The trademark St Joseph minerality and Coursodon polish are not absent, however, and there is a pleasing spicy finish.

Eighty-year-old vines, perched precariously high above the valley, are the origin of this fabulous wine, which was not made in 2008. The 2009 is spectacular indeed, but spectacularly rare too in that only 2100 bottles have been produced. It is bold and strident in youth, yet already very complete and fine.

A lovely, appealingly aromatic nose with red berry, dark spice and sun-dried herb characters. This is perfectly balanced with surprising density, concentration on the mid-palate and mouth-watering acidity. This is generous and full on the finish and will be impressive from the first taste to the last.
 Laura Atkinson - Private Account Manager

Paradise is never postponed with this outstanding wine, showing its pedigree from the outset and set to blossom with real panache. Dark chocolate, spice and liqueur de cassis from famously precipitous 85 year old vines. The grapes were 50% destemmed, such is Jérôme’s confidence in the vintage, and the wine will have had over 18 months in new barrique when bottled.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.

Rhône 2010 Berrys' Best Buys - The Angels of the North
This wine offers outstanding value from the Northern Rhône – an area which excelled in 2010. Beautifully pitched; the fruit is generous and bright, there’s plenty of texture and depth to the palate, but also a silky elegance throughout.
(Martyn Rolph, BBR Fine Wine)

Rich, fleshy but with very refined and supple tannins. Only 5% of new oak is employed but the wine is polished and dense with damson and morello cherry vying for attention.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012)

Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.

The communes of Tournon and Mauves provide the fruit for this excellent St Joseph, which exemplifies the purity and focus for which Stéphane feels that this vintage will be remembered. Fine tannins such as these are highly sought-after.

The vines for this outstanding St Joseph climb up behind the town of Tournon and surround its ancient castle. The blend is 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne, and the blend has been aged in oak for 20 months. Rich with honey and hazelnut, and luxuriant of texture, this is a full-bodied example that will accompany the ‘meatier’ end of the fish spectrum with great felicity.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The contribution of the Guigals to the reputation of the Rhône Valley should never be underestimated. Indeed, with the unpredictable genius of Messrs Chapoutier and the unpredictability full-stop of Messrs Jaboulet, the Guigals, père et fils, seem to provide a reassuring rock of certainty in the valley. The fact that they sell over six million bottles of their generic Côtes-du-Rhône is impressive indeed but should not distract us from the quality inherent in both these wines, from two of their own vineyards. 

Justifying its somewhat hyperbolic name, this magnificent wine from 80-year-old vines has a core of ripe red-berried fruit, buttressed by very fine tannins and fascinating additional flavours, reminiscent of cloves, chocolate and morello cherry.
(Simon Field M.W. - Rhône Buyer)

A cuvée rather than a specific lieu-dit, L’Olivaie has enjoyed an upbringing in 25% new wood, with the balance shared between barrel and demi-muid. Blacker fruits than Le Silice, but the integrated yet ripe tannin profile is very much le style de la maison.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Jérôme Coursodon’s reputation continues to soar. Ideally placed vineyards and a perspective which inclines towards perfectionism have both helped him on his way. Add to that the extraordinary natural benevolence of the vintage, and his legacy seems secure. It is fantastic to see such a famous old estate performing so well.