Saint-Joseph
St Joseph is the second-largest appellation in the Northern Rhône with 50 growers producing wines from over 600 hectares of vineyards. Established in 1956, over 90 percent of the wine is red – made exclusively from the Syrah grape; the whites are typically a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. The best St Josephs are still produced in its original heartland, between St Jean-de-Muzols and Mauves.
St Joseph is the second-largest appellation in the Northern Rhône with 50 growers producing wines from over 600 hectares of vineyards. Established in 1956, over 90 percent of the wine is red – made exclusively from the Syrah grape. The white wines, meanwhile, are typically a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne varieties. Its vineyards run due south on the west side below Condrieu, and are in six communes: Mauves, Tournon, St Jean-de-Muzols, Lemps, Vion and Glun.
The styles of wine in St Joseph tend to be much lighter than other red Appellations d'Origine Contrôlee and the quality can vary dramatically. The soils and climate differ, as it is a long, narrow AOC. There is no particular characteristic of the commune as some wines are produced near Côte-Rôtie, while others are near to Cornas.The best St Josephs are still produced in the original heartland of the appellation between St Jean-de-Muzols and Mauves, where soils are predominately granitic with patches of limestone and schist. Typically, even the finest St Josephs are slightly lighter and faster-maturing than the wines of Hermitage, as St Joseph's east-facing vineyards lose the sun up to two hours earlier in the crucial ripening season.
To meet demand, some extensions of the appellation have been made on less than ideal land, producing wines of indifferent quality.
Recommended producers: Pierre Gaillard, Jerome Coursodon, Paul Jaboulet
Best vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2000, 1999, 1996, 1990
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A fabulous vineyard with extraordinary terroir, complete with its own decorative pagoda, Florentin is currently being rejuvenated by no lesser a personality than Jean-Louis Chave. This fully mature example demonstrates the ageing capacity of the Marsanne varietal; lemon zest, orchard fruit and hints of beeswax make this a good match for rillettes, say, or a pungent cheese such as St Nectaire.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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From vines on the northerly edge of the appellation, this has been aged for over a year in barriques, 20 percent of which are new. There is crushed blueberry on the nose with hints of tapenade, then raspberry and ripe plum – a wine with an elegant Burgundian style.
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Nicolas sources Syrah grapes from Tournon and Mauves in the South of the appellation and Chavanay and St Pierre-de-Boeuf a little further to the north. The assemblage is aged for 10 months in one and two year-old barrels. The 2012 has attractive red and black berried fruit at its core and a fine, nicely etched, gently peppery finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
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These St Jean de Muzols vineyards were spared the hail that struck to the east of the river, but the yields were still lower than usual. Thomas describes the wine, somewhat disingenuously, as ‘sophisticatedly rustic’ – a description that can only be fully understood, I wager, on tasting this excellent example.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
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Ready, but will improve,
Located on the plateau above Malleval, these vines are over 30 years old and the wine is rich, spicy and wonderfully harmonious, with notes of crushed rock and ripe blackberry informing the palate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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The red Silice is brought up half in demi-muid, half in barrique, and in 2014 is typically generous and approachable, with raspberry fruit to the fore, a floral elegance and no lack of the linearity of structure for which this appellation is so justly famed.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Maturation is shared between demi-muids and pièces, none of which are new. The signature redfruit ebullience is present and correct, with soft, spicy tannins adding to the appeal. Primary fruit dominates, pure and not simple.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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The Préface may be so named as it is an introduction to the range, and a very compelling introduction it is too. Totally de-stemmed Syrah from vines located mainly in Sarras, its fruit matured in demi-muid for a year, this is a rich and spicy wine, its tannins finely etched and its finish long and silky.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
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Cuminaille has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd listing, and was indeed one of M Gaillard’s first projects on leaving Vidal Fleury (then not owned by Guigal) in the late 1970s. The quality is as good as ever, with a relatively short cuvaison indicative of both the quality and power of the fruit itself, which sings of cassis, sloe and myrtle, with bay, cocoa and hints of dark chocolate in the wings.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The Medieval village of Malleval, perched high above the serpentine Rhône, provides a suitably lofty homestead for Pierre Gaillard, one of the most influential and highlyrespected vignerons in the valley. With his two daughters, son and wife all part of the business, this is clearly a family affair, its influence now keenly felt in Seyssuel just to the north, not to mention Collioure and Faugères in the Languedoc, where some excellent wines have broadened an already impressive portfolio. The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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The three hectare Cuminaille plot was the first to be cultivated by Pierre after leaving Guigal. He identified the merits of these granitic sandy slopes and has been proving the point ever since with an outstanding wine which is aged for 18 months in French barrel of which 40% is new. The result is for me an archetype of St Joseph, finely structured, with great freshness, ripe dark fruit and generous pepper and spice on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Pierre Gaillard’s bluff exterior belies one of the keenest and most highly-respected minds in the valley. His projects in Collioure, Banyuls, Faugères and closer to home, Seyssuel, are all highly successful, but the mother-ship remains the ever expanding winery high above the medieval village of Malleval. His 2012 wines merit praise for thier colour and ripeness of fruit; for Pierre there is less matière than 2009 or 2010 but more engaging elegance
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Pierre Gaillard’s bluff exterior belies one of the keenest and most highly-respected minds in the valley. His projects in Collioure, Banyuls, Faugères and closer to home, Seyssuel, are all highly successful, but the mother-ship remains the ever expanding winery high above the medieval village of Malleval. His 2012 wines merit praise for thier colour and ripeness of fruit; for Pierre there is less matière than 2009 or 2010 but more engaging elegance
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Lombard is sourced from vines near to the Cuilleron winery in Chavanay, where the Condrieu vineyards reluctantly cede to those of St Joseph. The soil does not lack for granite, however, and its aspect is suitably precarious. Made from 50-year-old Marsanne, the 2013 has notes of wax, quince and orchard fruit, and a salinity on the back palate which would do no disservice to a plate of red mullet or similar.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
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The Reflet is sourced from decomposed granitic vineyards in parcels in the communes of Limony, St piere de Bœuf and Chavanay, that is to say the northern end of the appellation. With only 30% of the bunches destemmed, and an ageing of 50% in new barrique for eighteen months, the wine is supple and complex, with attractive currant leaf-aromas, chewy but elegant tannins and a quiet momentum on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The loquacious François Villard is something of an instinctive winemaker. Sometimes his instincts take him down a cul-de-sac, but generally they demonstrate a clos affinity to his many and varied plots and projects. It is therefore not entirely inappropriate that he cites 2012 as a vintage of great purity and potential, but also one where there is a greater qualitative gap than sometimes between good and less good examples. We, unsurprisingly, have decided to buy the wines which fall into the former group.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The loquacious François Villard is something of an instinctive winemaker. Sometimes his instincts take him down a cul-de-sac, but generally they demonstrate a clos affinity to his many and varied plots and projects. It is therefore not entirely inappropriate that he cites 2012 as a vintage of great purity and potential, but also one where there is a greater qualitative gap than sometimes between good and less good examples. We, unsurprisingly, have decided to buy the wines which fall into the former group.
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The Durand late-harvest philosophy was well suited to 2013 it seems. The granitic slopes behind the village include six hectares of Durand vines, the source of this powerful wine, its notes of dark chocolate and cerise complemented by a seam of elegant acidity and persuasive but not overwhelming tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Deeper and richer than the Les Coteaux, the 2013 Saint Joseph Cuvee Lautaret has similar notes of olive tapenade, cassis, black raspberry and gamey meat. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, with juicy acidity, it too should shine for 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Deeper and richer than the Les Coteaux, the 2013 Saint Joseph Cuvee Lautaret has similar notes of olive tapenade, cassis, black raspberry and gamey meat. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, with juicy acidity, it too should shine for 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Twenty percent of stems were added to the vat this year, its fruits matured for 16 months in new and one-year old barrel. The wine has classic St Joseph freshness, with a kiss of black pepper on the finish and nicely ripe tannins underlining accessibility in the medium term.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Yves Cuilleron compares 2012 to 2011; for him the vintage has more concentration and power than its immediate forebear. His house philosophy, whether by accident or design, mirrors the current fashions for later harvests and the addition of a varying degree of stems. Both engender structure and complexity when treated with due respect. Given that there is not the remotest sign of the green on the one hand or the over-ripe on the other, we can infer conspicuous success in these wines.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Yves Cuilleron compares 2012 to 2011; for him the vintage has more concentration and power than its immediate forebear. His house philosophy, whether by accident or design, mirrors the current fashions for later harvests and the addition of a varying degree of stems. Both engender structure and complexity when treated with due respect. Given that there is not the remotest sign of the green on the one hand or the over-ripe on the other, we can infer conspicuous success in these wines.
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Domaine Coursodon has long been one of the leading St Joseph wine estates. The youthful but intelligent Jérôme Coursodon is keen to emphasise the individuality and personality of this appellation. In St Joseph the watchwords are elegance, aromatic refinement and poise on the palate. Jérôme fully subscribes to such attributes, crafting wines with class and perfect balance.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
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Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Stéphane Robert’s St. Joseph is sourced, as one may expect, from the southern end of this diverse appellation. The 2008 has a lively nose, which combines notes of eucalypt and tobacco; the palate has energetic sinewy fruit and firm acidity. Early drinking, this is a pleasing antithesis to the more robust style of the Cornas wines at the other end of this particular stylistic tunnel.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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One should not overlook the reds in the Vernay portfolio…These vines are located in the northern sector of St Joseph, on the granitic slopes behind Chavanay to be precise. The wine is aged for a year in second and third fill barrique and exhibits plenty of red fruit charm, but with polished tannins and a fresh, pleasing finish.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The fruits of the labours of the eponymous Pape de Condrieu, now in the able hands of his daughter Christine and son-in-law Paul, continue to raise the bar for Viognier. Paul advises that the 2011 season was heterogène and tardive, before adding, with a twinkle in his eye, that he prefers later harvests. Complexity is engendered, and that famous mineral finish, re-defining any preconceived ideas that one may have had about Condrieu, is famous indeed this year.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The fruits of the labours of the eponymous Pape de Condrieu, now in the able hands of his daughter Christine and son-in-law Paul, continue to raise the bar for Viognier. Paul advises that the 2011 season was heterogène and tardive, before adding, with a twinkle in his eye, that he prefers later harvests. Complexity is engendered, and that famous mineral finish, re-defining any preconceived ideas that one may have had about Condrieu, is famous indeed this year.
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Christine Vernay is close to being a perfectionist, so close in fact that she is sometimes reluctant to taste wines that have not been bottled for fear either of the fact that the work in progress will inevitably differ to a greater or lesser degree from the finished article or that the sample will be poor. To my mind, however, it’s like looking at a work of art, a Holbein drawing say, and then the finished painting. Both are sublime and the appreciation of the former informs that of the later. So it is with these exceptional wines; for Christine 2012 is an improvement on 2011. It flatters but it does not deceive.
This St Joseph has a suitably inky colour and a deep reflective nose of violets, graphite and autumnal bonfires. Aged for a year in second- and third-fill barrique, the palate combines forward pleasingly ripe, dark fruit notes with an attractive, almost earthy austerity on the finish.
This St Joseph has a suitably inky colour and a deep reflective nose of violets, graphite and autumnal bonfires. Aged for a year in second- and third-fill barrique, the palate combines forward pleasingly ripe, dark fruit notes with an attractive, almost earthy austerity on the finish.
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Vineyards in Chavanay and Sarras are the source of this excellent St Joseph. The grapes are completely destemmed and aged in 30 percent new wood for 18 months. Ripe red and black fruits provide an indulgent cocktail, with a pleasing peppery backdrop buttressed by finely poised tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Irrepressibly cheerful as ever, François Villard shrugs at the 30 to 40 percent drop in yields in 2013, attributing the phenomenon to nature’s way of evening things out, a truism with which it is hard to argue. The slightly higher than normal levels of malic acid he sees as more relevant in terms of potential quality; once the malolactic fermentations were completed however, this problem redressed itself and wines of equilibrium and charm resulted. All things balance out in the end, it seems.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Irrepressibly cheerful as ever, François Villard shrugs at the 30 to 40 percent drop in yields in 2013, attributing the phenomenon to nature’s way of evening things out, a truism with which it is hard to argue. The slightly higher than normal levels of malic acid he sees as more relevant in terms of potential quality; once the malolactic fermentations were completed however, this problem redressed itself and wines of equilibrium and charm resulted. All things balance out in the end, it seems.
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Ready, but will keep,
Our 2012 Rhône Vintage Recommendation: Favourite St Joseph
As you would expect from this excellent Cornas wine producer, its St Joseph has plenty of weight to it and superb concentration. Beautiful drinking now, and over the next five years, with plenty of spice and tobacco box to keep you interested.
Matt Tipping, Private Account Manager
Stéphane’s 2011 St Joseph was a big hit last year and we see no reason to doubt a similar reception for the 2012. With old vines located on the plateau high above Mauves and Tournon, this is as pure and aromatic an expression of left-bank (or should that be right-bank?!) Syrah as one is likely to find, with resplendent cassis fruit, pepper and spice in support and a refreshing eucalypt finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Stéphane Robert is pithy when describing the 2012 vintage; ‘tout est bon....pas de soucis’. It’s hard to argue with such an analysis, especially when tasting his wines. The Roberts have built a wonderful chalet-like house with panoramic views of Cornas and beyond that Valance. It is close to the ruins of the eponymous railway tunnel, where they plan to build some kind of entertainment suite, although how they plan to do this is not quite clear. Their winery remains in the heart of St Peray and their wines are among the finest in the region.
As you would expect from this excellent Cornas wine producer, its St Joseph has plenty of weight to it and superb concentration. Beautiful drinking now, and over the next five years, with plenty of spice and tobacco box to keep you interested.
Matt Tipping, Private Account Manager
Stéphane’s 2011 St Joseph was a big hit last year and we see no reason to doubt a similar reception for the 2012. With old vines located on the plateau high above Mauves and Tournon, this is as pure and aromatic an expression of left-bank (or should that be right-bank?!) Syrah as one is likely to find, with resplendent cassis fruit, pepper and spice in support and a refreshing eucalypt finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Stéphane Robert is pithy when describing the 2012 vintage; ‘tout est bon....pas de soucis’. It’s hard to argue with such an analysis, especially when tasting his wines. The Roberts have built a wonderful chalet-like house with panoramic views of Cornas and beyond that Valance. It is close to the ruins of the eponymous railway tunnel, where they plan to build some kind of entertainment suite, although how they plan to do this is not quite clear. Their winery remains in the heart of St Peray and their wines are among the finest in the region.
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Ready, but will improve,
Christine proves once again that she is more than proficient with red as well as white grapes. The vines are located on the granitic slopes behind Chavanay in the north of the appellation. This 100 percent Syrah exhibits plenty of red fruit charm, but with polished, ‘proper’ tannins from one-year-old barriques, and a fresh, hedgerow character, with hints of crushed rock, bay leaf and sousbois on the finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christine Vernay is pleased by the 2013s and has clearly relished the challenges of the vintage. The cold start allowed the vines to rest properly and it was therefore only reasonable that they had to work a little harder at the other end of the season, the longer growing cycle engendering complexity and finely defined acidity – the latter especially important with Viognier. No one makes better Viognier in the world, as these wines once again demonstrate.
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Drink now,
François Villard has grown his tiny wine domaine from four to seven hectares and still produces a miniscule quantity of highly allocated bottlings. Referred to by Robert Parker as one of the “stars” of the Northern Rhône, François also acquired a small parcel in Côte-Rôtie and a few hectares in St Joseph. Formerly a chef, François brings his complex palette to the winery to produce wines of power and grace that age for years. The results are unrivalled.
An equal blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, the Mairlant is aged in 40 percent new Burgundian barrels and is suitably spicy, with an attractive undercurrent of poached pear, beeswax and wild honey: an archetype of modern white St Joseph.
An equal blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, the Mairlant is aged in 40 percent new Burgundian barrels and is suitably spicy, with an attractive undercurrent of poached pear, beeswax and wild honey: an archetype of modern white St Joseph.
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Drink now,
Yves Cuilleron has long been seen as the leader of Condrieu's new generation of winemakers, but in fact makes as much red as white wine and has an equally impressive reputation for this holdings in Côte Rôtie and St Joseph and his mastery of the sometimes rather chimerical Syrah grape. That this mastery was centred on the use of oak, in the early days at least, did little to undermine the plaudits, although now that there is more moderation in the size and age of the barrels, the plaudits have, if anything, become louder and even more effusive.
Les Serines is Yves’ top St Joseph, from old south-east facing vines around the Chavanay and Mauves communes behind the town of Tournon, which is itself located across the river from Tain L’Hermitage. Les Serines is not a lieu-dit, rather an old synonym for Syrah. The wines are farmed at a high density, then picked by hand and fermented in stainless steel, after which they are aged for eighteen months in cask, with no new wood employed.
This is a robust, finely structured wine, with firm mineral acidity cutting through the granitic blocks of black fruit, and a very pure finish in deference to the quality of the terroir.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Les Serines is Yves’ top St Joseph, from old south-east facing vines around the Chavanay and Mauves communes behind the town of Tournon, which is itself located across the river from Tain L’Hermitage. Les Serines is not a lieu-dit, rather an old synonym for Syrah. The wines are farmed at a high density, then picked by hand and fermented in stainless steel, after which they are aged for eighteen months in cask, with no new wood employed.
This is a robust, finely structured wine, with firm mineral acidity cutting through the granitic blocks of black fruit, and a very pure finish in deference to the quality of the terroir.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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Ready, but will keep,
The top cuvée from Villa’s stable, matured for 24 months in oak with some of it new; we have come to expect great things of this wine with each and every passing vintage. The nose is full of silky dark fruit, violets and schist whilst on the palate, the tannins and acidity combine with pleasing concentration to produce a wine with a sense of place as well as an air of refinement.
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying
The 2012 Saint Joseph Tilde (100% Syrah) is a modern style of Rhône wine, with a suave texture, medium-bodied richness and intense fruit flavours of blackberries, smoked cured meat and peppery nuances. Showing soft tannins and a good length on the finish, this solid effort will enjoy a decade of longevity and development.
Eva Polaki, Wine Team
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying
The 2012 Saint Joseph Tilde (100% Syrah) is a modern style of Rhône wine, with a suave texture, medium-bodied richness and intense fruit flavours of blackberries, smoked cured meat and peppery nuances. Showing soft tannins and a good length on the finish, this solid effort will enjoy a decade of longevity and development.
Eva Polaki, Wine Team
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£38.00
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£410.40
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Ready, but will keep,
The Sensonne, matured in 100% new wood, has had a very successful outing in 2011; its heart of dark morello fruit and soft spice is in no way overwhelmed by the ambitious winemaking – quite the reverse.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
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Ready, but will improve,
100% de-stemming and only 10% new wood was used for the 2011; this is indicative of the pleasingly pragmatic philosophy employed here (2010 differed on both counts). The 85% granitic slopes have yielded a bright and finely textured wine with supple tannins, mirror-bright acidity and plenty of depth.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Now respected as one of St Joseph’s top three growers, the naturally diffident Jérôme has acquired new confidence, and the wines return the compliment. The pedigree of their birth, that is to say the best, most precipitous, site in St Jean de Muzols, Tournon and Mauves, is now underlined by a suitably prestigious education, which is far from sentimental. For Jérôme, 2010 captures the best of 2006 and 2007, both of which have grown up very nicely indeed.
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Ready, but will improve,
One-hundred percent de-stemming and with just under 10 percent of new wood, the 2014 is particularly successful. The 85 percent granitic slopes have yielded a bright and finely textured wine, with supple tannins, mirror-bright acidity and plenty of depth. The first four words to be etched into the tasting book were; “tobacco, smoke, violets” and “outstanding”.
Drink 2017-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2017-2022.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer