Chablis Grand Cru

As befits the well-exposed Grand Cru site, the fruit profile here is towards the stone fruit end of the spectrum. Spicy, rich, and with a hint of oak, there is outstanding concentration, a chalky minerality and a satisfying, long finish of pain d’épices. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The legendary Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous oldstyle Chablis. His great-grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father Laurent and her uncle Christophe are now in charge. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses on the street. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. The wines are wild-fermented, mostly in stainless steel tanks, before barrel ageing, with the proportion of oak depending on the cuvée. Despite describing 2016 as a testing year, Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are upbeat, declaring themselves very happy with the quality of the grapes and resultant wines. Volumes are down in many cases, and the limited-production Cuvée Mademoiselle has not been made this year.

With 40 percent barrel-fermented, toasty almond and noisette notes intertwine harmoniously with subtle stone-fruit aromas. An elegant wine which is easy to admire and has an effortless, almost regal finesse and class. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

Forty percent barrel-fermented, this is a powerful wine, with bundles of energy under the glossy and sunny veneer. There is substantial concentration and complexity thanks to subtly spicy, gunflint notes. A wine with great promise, but which demands patience. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

The slight opulence of the stone fruit and spice aromas almost gives the false impression of oak. This is currently somewhat backward, with an abundance of apricot and spice which is presently disassociated from the fine thread of steely minerality. All of the necessary elements are there to make a fine Vaudésir, and this will reward those with the patience to wait for it to knit together. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.

This is so complex that it’s difficult to know where to start; but this is everything I look for in Grand Cru Chablis. On the nose, notes of gunflint, ripe citrus, honey and spicy oak combine to great effect. The palate starts out broad and mouth-filling but seems to gain focus as it goes on and on towards the finish, which is mineral and distinctly brackish. Drink now to 2032.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)

Fifty percent barrel-fermented, this is – as ever – incredibly complex and tightly wound. Packed with vibrant fruit on the entry, it tightens up with a core of citrus, finishing on notes of hot, flinty stones. Sublime. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

The Grand Cru Bougros would have an outstanding reputation if all the vineyards were on the incredibly steep Côte Bouguerots. The wine has a character all of its own: electric, linear and extraordinarily intense. The flavours are based around white fruit, the minerals more stony than marine in style, and the persistence makes clear that this is a great wine for the long term.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

Showing a slightly more expressive nose than the 1ers crus, Bessin’s grand cru Valmur boasts a huge density of fruit, magical and concentrated, really very stylish indeed,  with a very long finish. This is one of the finest wines he has ever produced from the vineyard and will last (the 2002 is still on excellent form in July 2016).
Drink 2020-2030.

A brilliant, clear colour, this has a very sensual nose of white flowers and fruit. There is a really gracious texture here with the usual Preuses cashmere coating. It’s fully ripe but not heavy, a beauty. There is great energy behind, but with distinction rather than brute force. Drink 2022-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine buyer

In common with most of his colleagues, Didier Séguier was ready to harvest in early September; starting on Thursday 3rd with the vineyards which had been hit by the hail storm earlier in the week. The damage was to volume rather than quality and certainly just from tasting it was not possible to see where the hail had fallen. These are powerful wines which have nonetheless retained the qualities of classic Chablis.

From the steepest part of the vineyard, this has a little light primrose colour and a glorious, magisterial bouquet. With some fresh lemon notes, there is huge weight to this, opening out to a really sumptuous succulent finish – and just a touch of youthful bitterness to drive the saliva. Some tannins at the back add to the concentration, fabulous dry extract. Hugely impressive, this is perhaps the Chablis of the vintage. Drink 2022-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

In common with most of his colleagues, Didier Séguier was ready to harvest in early September; starting on Thursday 3rd with the vineyards which had been hit by the hail storm earlier in the week. The damage was to volume rather than quality and certainly just from tasting it was not possible to see where the hail had fallen. These are powerful wines which have nonetheless retained the qualities of classic Chablis.

Kept in barrel until December this is bright and clear in colour. Picked early, the fruit bounds out of the glass, no sign of the oak. Displaying a whole raft of different fruits, the oak lends support behind. In particular the fruit acid balance impresses. Great Chablis. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Picking began on 30th September, stopped for the rainy weekend, then the small amount remaining was finished afterwards. The Pinsons have been making such good wine for several years now, and 2013 certainly continues that story.

Every year we like these wines, and every year when we try the wines that we bought the year before, we like them even more. Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are doing a wonderful job and producing outstanding Chablis for very reasonable prices. All of the wines are hand harvested and the 1ers Crus are matured in barrel, though without the influence of new wood.

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Part vinified in new wood and all aged in barrel before bottling after 15 months, this wine is up to the same standard of their great 2010. It has a fabulous nose, the wood perfectly integrated with a fine depth of powerful white fruit, excellent acidity and exceptional long term potential.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Picking started as early as 31st August at Domaine William Fèvre, which is extraordinarily early for Chablis, but a good decision seeing as it preserved the essential acidity in grapes which were ripe in their low-yielding vineyards. The crop was reduced on the right bank after a touch of frost slightly disturbed flowering and hail which arrived on 28th June. Didier Séguier, the talented winemaker, draws some parallels with 2000 and, in terms of the moderate but balanced acidity, 2002 – both of which are fine vintages indeed for Chablis. All of the wines listed below were farmed organically in 2011.

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The bouquet here is not yet ready to speak but it suggests great density and poise. There are powerful shoulders to the wine and while it has not yet had time for the finesse to show, it is certainly present and waiting. Wave after wave of flavour covers the palate, with spicy notes attached to the flesh and deep fruit, before an utterly explosive finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Picking started as early as 31st August at Domaine William Fèvre, which is extraordinarily early for Chablis, but a good decision seeing as it preserved the essential acidity in grapes which were ripe in their low-yielding vineyards. The crop was reduced on the right bank after a touch of frost slightly disturbed flowering and hail which arrived on 28th June. Didier Séguier, the talented winemaker, draws some parallels with 2000 and, in terms of the moderate but balanced acidity, 2002 – both of which are fine vintages indeed for Chablis. All of the wines listed below were farmed organically in 2011.

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This bright and light wine is dominated by white fruits and displays a silky texture rather than the usual opulent wool. Rounded, juicy and very lovely, it is extremely drinkable.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

The 2011 vintage has turned out very well here, better than Benoît initially expected. It was a normal sized crop, picked early (from 31st August) in order to maintain acidity in a vintage which otherwise has the weight of 2005 or 2009. We were very impressed by the whole range, with each vineyard offering a different set of flavours. As usual, Benoît employs a different oak regime for each wine according to the needs of its terroir.

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The flagship wine is fermented and aged half in wood and half in tank. Overall this is a full, complete, beautiful wine- a great expression of Chablis. Tight, powerful and concentrated, each component is there but it's hardly showing the detail yet. The very lively but caressing mid palate leads to an amazing aftertaste.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

From just over two hectares planted on the steep slope, facing south-southeast, this is much more restrained than a classic Bougros. There is great persistence and finesse, an undercurrent of power too, but it’s restrained. This is gorgeous, with a pleasing youthful bitterness on the finish. Drink 2024-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

Subtle and discreet on the nose, this is clearly a wine which will require some time to fully open up. The palate offers a lovely understated power, full of subtle, elegant nuances. It is at once very closed and tightly wound, with a richness that steers clear of being blousy. The finish has a wonderful touch of roasted nuts and pithy, phenolic grip. An excellent wine which will reward those with the patience to wait for it to mature.

A really impressive Grand Cru: primrose yellow, with rich, lovely oak; a proper nervous tension underlying, and amazing length. There is a little more wood used here (45%) this year to match the concentration of the vintage.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

Benoît Droin is the 14th generation of the family producing wine in Chablis, looking after a 25-hectare domaine with an impressive range of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. Overall Benoît’s crop was down 15%, largely in straight Chablis after frost, and in the early ripening plots which suffered from drought. The wines are very backward this year as the prolonged cold spring inhibited the malolactic fermentation. However, it is very clear that these are wines of great concentration and real potential.

Where the Mont de Milieu is about power, Pinson’s Les Clos is the epitome of finesse, albeit every bit as intense. The fruit has a serene quality to it, fills out the middle palate, then continues to an immensely long finish. This is a fabulously complete wine and a bargain at that!
(Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director)

Laurent Pinson thinks 2010 will be the longest lasting in the recent succession of successful vintages in Chablis, combining the intensity of 2009 with the invigorating acidity of the previous year. Though volume is down as for everybody, prices remain stable – meaning that this excellent address offers superb value. The Premier and Grand Cru wines are a blend of barrel and stainless steel maturation, though the wood component never dominates the wine.

From first sniff, this is a fabulous wine. Tasting it, even in its youth, brings a smile to the face. There is a brilliant rich white fruit bouquet and a great density of flavour on the palate. This wine displays a serene quality, with tremendous intensity of fruit, yet light on its feet. Terrific!
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

This long-established family domaine impresses us more and more with every vintage. The Pinsons have always picked by hand and they are now using natural yeasts for the vinification process. Most wines are vinified in stainless steel, with a small percentage in barrel for the top wines, then matured in barrel for up to a year. The only bad news in 2012 is the quantity: 20% down for straight Chablis, 25-30% less across the Premier Cru vineyards and minus 50% on the Grand Cru which was affected by frost.