Chablis Grand Cru

A fine, pale colour, this has a very steely backward nose. The concentration is absolutely there, with the detail still to come. The fruit swells beautifully on the palate, with clean fresh pear notes and a very fine sense of balance, bearing the freshness of the best wines of the vintage alongside the weight. Drink 2020-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Quantity is a bit of a problem this year as the Michels suffered hail in 22 of their 25 hectares. Fortunately most of the Grands Crus were spared, but they have very little Chablis or Premier Cru. Guillaume Michel brought in most of the crop in three and a half days, so there was no deterioration of the grapes from the areas which suffered. The grapes were in fact ripe to perfection and, as with last year, this is an impressive range of wines.

The slight opulence of the stone fruit and spice aromas almost gives the false impression of oak. This is currently somewhat backward, with an abundance of apricot and spice which is presently disassociated from the fine thread of steely minerality. All of the necessary elements are there to make a fine Vaudésir, and this will reward those with the patience to wait for it to knit together. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.

High-quality, ripe fruit stands tall here in a wine which exudes Grand Cru stature. With 35 percent barrel-fermented, there is fine, rich fruit throughout, with excellent texture, lively and exciting, and an amazing finish. A regal wine for the long term. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

We visited Benoît Droin towards the end of the 2015 harvest. “If you had seen me a week ago, straight after the hail, I was on the point of committing suicide, but actually things have turned out much better than we feared,” he told us. Yields were of course affected in several vineyards but the wines across the board are extremely fine. The proportion of wood used reflects the style rather than the seniority of each cuvée.

With 40 percent barrel-fermented, toasty almond and noisette notes intertwine harmoniously with subtle stone-fruit aromas. An elegant wine which is easy to admire and has an effortless, almost regal finesse and class. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

Forty percent barrel-fermented, this is a powerful wine, with bundles of energy under the glossy and sunny veneer. There is substantial concentration and complexity thanks to subtly spicy, gunflint notes. A wine with great promise, but which demands patience. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

On the nose there is a seductive ripeness to the fruit, and just a touch of gun-smoke reduction. There is a lovely weight on the mid-palate, with juicy, pure yellow-plum fruit and a pleasing stony backbone of flint rather than chalk. This is lovely, although riper than the Vaudésir and will drink earlier. Drink 2021-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.

Fifty percent barrel-fermented, this is – as ever – incredibly complex and tightly wound. Packed with vibrant fruit on the entry, it tightens up with a core of citrus, finishing on notes of hot, flinty stones. Sublime. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

Fèvre has 10 plots in all, comprising just over four hectares, mostly very old vines, and mostly higher up the slope. The nose has it all: some peaches and plums, along with the stern approach of great Chablis. This is really very fine indeed. The sensational volume of fruit in the mouth fattens out towards the back then finishes with a linear drive. Absolutely complete.  Very long finish indeed. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The domaine began picking on 26th September, the first to do so in Chablis and ahead of many in the Côte d’Or. It was the right decision since with their low yields and well aerated bunches the grapes were ripe enough, harvesting conditions were good, and everything was picked before the horrible weather of 5th and 6th October. As a result these are wines of exceptional intensity and potential longevity.

With a pale colour, this has a nose that suggests a wine of great potential power. It shows all the majesty of Les Clos, and the fruit is usefully supported by a touch of oak. Full and fine, with great grace and depth of fruit, this is exceptionally long. It clearly needs much more time though.

Laurent Pinson is happy to report better volumes than in recent vintages, and more typical Chablis in style. The grapes ripened nicely yet retained very good acidity. The crop was picked by hand in good weather, and fermented with natural yeasts. The crus are all barrel-aged, with a small proportion being barrel fermented. As usual, we see not just great quality but also excellent value for money at this estate.

The Grand Cru Bougros would have an outstanding reputation if all the vineyards were on the incredibly steep Côte Bouguerots. The wine has a character all of its own: electric, linear and extraordinarily intense. The flavours are based around white fruit, the minerals more stony than marine in style, and the persistence makes clear that this is a great wine for the long term.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

The hallmark of this wine is a gracious elegance, a seamless texture and a feeling of serenity. White fruit and minerality combine effortlessly on a scale which is clearly Grand Cru. It offers more harmony but less electricity than Côte Bouguerots for example.

The grapes were picked by hand between 15th and 22nd September in good weather conditions. The Premiers Crus will be bottled in December or January, the Grands Crus a little later. The fresh style of the wines is dictated by the summer temperatures, both July and August being cooler than average. The different terroirs are beautifully delineated this year and the range offers some fascinating contrasting pairings: Vaillons/Mont de Milieu; Montée de Tonnerre/Vauloren and Les Preuses/ Côte Bouguerots for example.

Brilliant, pure and pale in colour, the bouquet of this wine requires careful attention because there are so many notes on offer. There is a magical weight from the start and the same intense volume of fruit is maintained all the way through. This is a wine of extraordinary length, with waves of fruit returning again and again to complement the mineral acidity.
(Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director)

Picking began on 20th September, earlier than many Cote d’Or estates, and most grapes were brought in quickly before the rain at the end of the week. It was necessary to sort the grapes by hand to remove botrytis from the later picked vineyards, but the resulting range is not only exceptionally powerful but also very pure. Yields are very substantially reduced here (where they are always low in any case) so prices have risen a little. Didier Séguier thinks that 2010 is a truly great Chablis vintage for the long term.

Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous old-style Chablis wines. His great-granddaughter, Charlène, along with her father, Laurent and her uncle Christophe have now taken over. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and winery. Fermentation is mostly in stainless steel using selected yeasts, then the wines are transferred to barrel for the maturation process.

This goes into 15 percent new wood and 85 percent tank for vinification, then maturation over 12 months in one-, two- and three-year-old wood. While the wood appears from time to time on the nose, the fruit soon kicks it to one side. With very significant weight on the palate, the wine shows the opulence of the year without losing its Chablis roots.

A brilliant, clear colour, this has a very sensual nose of white flowers and fruit. There is a really gracious texture here with the usual Preuses cashmere coating. It’s fully ripe but not heavy, a beauty. There is great energy behind, but with distinction rather than brute force. Drink 2022-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine buyer

In common with most of his colleagues, Didier Séguier was ready to harvest in early September; starting on Thursday 3rd with the vineyards which had been hit by the hail storm earlier in the week. The damage was to volume rather than quality and certainly just from tasting it was not possible to see where the hail had fallen. These are powerful wines which have nonetheless retained the qualities of classic Chablis.

From the steepest part of the vineyard, this has a little light primrose colour and a glorious, magisterial bouquet. With some fresh lemon notes, there is huge weight to this, opening out to a really sumptuous succulent finish – and just a touch of youthful bitterness to drive the saliva. Some tannins at the back add to the concentration, fabulous dry extract. Hugely impressive, this is perhaps the Chablis of the vintage. Drink 2022-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

In common with most of his colleagues, Didier Séguier was ready to harvest in early September; starting on Thursday 3rd with the vineyards which had been hit by the hail storm earlier in the week. The damage was to volume rather than quality and certainly just from tasting it was not possible to see where the hail had fallen. These are powerful wines which have nonetheless retained the qualities of classic Chablis.

Kept in barrel until December this is bright and clear in colour. Picked early, the fruit bounds out of the glass, no sign of the oak. Displaying a whole raft of different fruits, the oak lends support behind. In particular the fruit acid balance impresses. Great Chablis. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Picking began on 30th September, stopped for the rainy weekend, then the small amount remaining was finished afterwards. The Pinsons have been making such good wine for several years now, and 2013 certainly continues that story.

As befits the well-exposed Grand Cru site, the fruit profile here is towards the stone fruit end of the spectrum. Spicy, rich, and with a hint of oak, there is outstanding concentration, a chalky minerality and a satisfying, long finish of pain d’épices. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The legendary Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous oldstyle Chablis. His great-grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father Laurent and her uncle Christophe are now in charge. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses on the street. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. The wines are wild-fermented, mostly in stainless steel tanks, before barrel ageing, with the proportion of oak depending on the cuvée. Despite describing 2016 as a testing year, Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are upbeat, declaring themselves very happy with the quality of the grapes and resultant wines. Volumes are down in many cases, and the limited-production Cuvée Mademoiselle has not been made this year.

This is from two parcels: the first on a steep slope, facing east, which lends minerality and freshness; the second southwest-facing on deep clay, giving richness and presence. A blend of elegance and power, this is a very complete wine with lots of energy. Very distinguished. Drink 2024-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

From just over two hectares planted on the steep slope, facing south-southeast, this is much more restrained than a classic Bougros. There is great persistence and finesse, an undercurrent of power too, but it’s restrained. This is gorgeous, with a pleasing youthful bitterness on the finish. Drink 2024-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This leading Chablis domaine was developed by the eponymous William Fèvre between 1957 and his retirement in 1998 when he sold to the Champagne House Joseph Henriot. Since then the wines have been made by the talented Didier Séguier who had previously been with the Bouchard team in Beaune. The domaine wines include 12 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and no less than 16 hectares of Grands Crus. Everything is harvested by hand. The Premier Cru wines are vinified in 30 to 50 percent oak, the Grands Crus 50 to 70 percent, all in oneyear-old barrels from Bouchard. Didier Séguier described 2016 as a complicated vintage which was saved by a warm, dry summer and a cool northerly wind just before harvest, allowing the grapes to ripen without achieving high sugar levels. The resultant small grapes have given concentrated wines of great finesse. He feels this is a vintage which will produce wines of good early approachability, while also being interesting to serious Chablis lovers who will appreciate the mineral backbone. Keen to preserve this minerality, Dider has not used any new oak this year.

Fine distinguished pale colour, while the nose is very backward, no problem with that. Very pure, very intense, the palate is sublime, white fruit, steely structure, a wealth of flesh firmly attached to the bones, a wine of immense potential and longevity.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Where the Mont de Milieu is about power, Pinson’s Les Clos is the epitome of finesse, albeit every bit as intense. The fruit has a serene quality to it, fills out the middle palate, then continues to an immensely long finish. This is a fabulously complete wine and a bargain at that!
(Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director)

Laurent Pinson thinks 2010 will be the longest lasting in the recent succession of successful vintages in Chablis, combining the intensity of 2009 with the invigorating acidity of the previous year. Though volume is down as for everybody, prices remain stable – meaning that this excellent address offers superb value. The Premier and Grand Cru wines are a blend of barrel and stainless steel maturation, though the wood component never dominates the wine.

Some lemon-scented notes freshen up the scintillating bouquet, while the core of steel which threads through the palate fully demonstrates its Grand Cru status.