Montmains

These vines were planted in 1956, so are slightly younger than the Forêt vines. The nose displays classic Chablis dairy notes, some citrus and a touch of spice from the oak. This is a classic Montmain, with lovely, lemony acidity, well-integrated oak and plenty of oyster shell and sea-breeze notes. Drink 2021-2028.

It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.

Guillaume describes this as a connoisseur’s Chablis because it can be coltish in youth and demands time for all the components to knit together. It owes its ripe bouquet and fleshy palate to the vineyard’s clay soils and the age of the vines, planted in 1943. Already, however, it gains focus towards the finish, which is long and saline. Drink 2021-2027.

As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.