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Domaine Marc Colin,
Ready, but will improve,
Domaine Marc Colin is one of the most respected white wine producers in Burgundy. He is based in the small village of St Aubin and works some of its finest vineyards, including Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet. Aligoté is a much-maligned grape variety which – in the right hands and the right location – can produce excellent wines.
Pale in colour, this has a steely and mineral nose, offering some green apple aromas and a touch of cream. Ageing in old oak barrels gives a subtle hint of spice and some breadth to the palate, accompanying the precise acidity and chalky finish. Surprisingly complex for a “humble” Aligoté. Drink now to 2020.
Ready, but will improve,
This is mostly from 90-year-old vines of Aligoté Doré in Meursault and a younger vineyard in Volnay belonging to the estate. Vinified in 500- and 600-litre puncheons, the wine has lovely notes of citrus and pineapple, with an indulgent side-order of old-vine creaminess. Drink 2019-2024.
Paul Zinetti was realistic yet confident in the quality of his 2017s. Such an early harvest, which started in Volnay Frémiets on 3rd September and ended in Auxey on 11th September, provided new challenges which Paul addressed creatively and sympathetically. The wines were fruity and direct but he found that colour and structure were slow to come, so he kept the wine on skins for a week or more after fermentation. There is less whole-bunch this year as the stems weren’t always fully ripe, but his de-stemmer preserves a lot of whole berries anyway. He will bottle all the reds before Christmas without filtration but he will trial some fining to round out the tannins.
Paul Zinetti was realistic yet confident in the quality of his 2017s. Such an early harvest, which started in Volnay Frémiets on 3rd September and ended in Auxey on 11th September, provided new challenges which Paul addressed creatively and sympathetically. The wines were fruity and direct but he found that colour and structure were slow to come, so he kept the wine on skins for a week or more after fermentation. There is less whole-bunch this year as the stems weren’t always fully ripe, but his de-stemmer preserves a lot of whole berries anyway. He will bottle all the reds before Christmas without filtration but he will trial some fining to round out the tannins.
Drink now,
Produced from vines aged around 90 years old and found in Meursault, this has a brilliantly refreshing tangy nose full of fresh lemons. It is really lively, classy and has the flavours commonly associated with serious white Burgundy.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Volumes at Domaine du Comte Armand were broadly similar to 2010 in 2011, but will be catastrophically low in 2012 as Pommard was one of the hardest hit villages with the poor weather. We must therefore take advantage of Benjamin Leroux’s brilliant range of wines made available this year, from the supposedly lowly Aligoté upwards. Look out for the potential of the fabulous Clos des Epeneaux, which Ben has harnessed to a quality level rarely seen before.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Volumes at Domaine du Comte Armand were broadly similar to 2010 in 2011, but will be catastrophically low in 2012 as Pommard was one of the hardest hit villages with the poor weather. We must therefore take advantage of Benjamin Leroux’s brilliant range of wines made available this year, from the supposedly lowly Aligoté upwards. Look out for the potential of the fabulous Clos des Epeneaux, which Ben has harnessed to a quality level rarely seen before.
Ready, but will improve,
This is made from ancient vines below Meursault, with golden grapes, mixed before pressing with the grapes from their own young vines. Matured in large barrels, the wine is very pale with a green tint, perfect fruit through the middle, exceptional elegance. As fine as Aligoté can be.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
Showing 1-5 out of 5 items
Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (January 2019)