Domaine de la Mordoree
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2010 Reine de Bois is an outstanding success, every bit as good to my mind as the past glories of 2009, 2007 and 2001. Christophe describes it, somewhat whimsically, as an aristocratic diamond. There is certainly regality and precision here; the typical notes of graphite, raspberry coulis and bay are complemented by a fine filigree of tannins and an impeccable balance, with hints of lavender and garrigue adding a pleasing meridional twist.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The Delorme brothers have, since 1986, forged an enviable reputation. They are based to the south-east in the village of Tavel, celebrated for its rosé wines, but they also own 4 hectares of vines on the Crau plateau of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a very well-positioned parcel in Lirac. Christophe is adamant that 2010 is their best ever vintage; the key to its quality is the juxtaposition of trademark concentration and very fine tannins, much finer, he maintains than in 2007 or 2009, both highly successful years of course. Mordorée are aiming for full organic certification in 2013, aided in no small measure by the new member of the team…Sarko the horse…(at least I think that this is the name they gave!)
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Ready, but will keep,
From the more robust end of an already powerful spectrum, the 2009 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reine des Bois is a definite keeper. Dark of hue and with intense aromas of graphite, blueberry liqueur and crushed rock, the wine is dense and pure, its sweet fruit beautifully integrated with wood and its finish fine and persuasive.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer)
(Simon Field MW, BBR Wine Buyer)
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Ready, but will improve,
A longer maceration, but with less pumping over; Christophe’s philosophy has paid dividends with a wine which is long and pleasingly aromatic with graphite, blueberry liqueur and crushed rock all in evidence. The wine is dense yet pure; its sweet fruit beautifully integrated in deference to the now much imitated house style.
Simon Field MW - Rhone Buyer
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as atypical, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteuneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’.
Simon Field MW - Rhone Buyer
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as atypical, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteuneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’.
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Christophe and Fabrice Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée did not take long to project this fine estate (which is named, somewhat poetically, after a woodcock) into the Premier League.
Based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Tavel, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and an excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Christophe produced his first wines there in 1987. Up until that time the estate had been little more than a hobby for his father, an industrialist with two great passions; shooting and wine.
Christophe totally refurbished and modernised the winery as well as replanting much of the vineyards. Today the domaine has 40 hectares of vineyards - 7 hectares in Tavel, 15 hectares in Lirac (top-notch examples), 16 hectares for generic Côtes-du-Rhône and 3 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The vineyards are organically cultivated as much as possible, only using chemical weedkillers and pesticides as a very last resort. As for the winemaking, the grapes are all systematically destemmed upon arrival at the winery and vinification takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. The wines are then matured in a mixture of stainless steel vats and new oak barrels. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is a limited bottling only produced in the very finest years.