Santenay

This is a blend of Les Bras and Les Saunières, both of which touch Premiers Crus. The former is high on the steep, south-facing slope, while the latter is lower down on heavier soil, facing east. The combination yields a wine with juicy, red-berry fruit, sweet, crunchy tannins and just a lick of spice to round out the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In January 2002 Maison Camille Giroud was bought by an American consortium led by banker Joe Wender and winery-owner Ann Colgin, and a new chapter began. David Croix was installed as the winemaker/ technical director and tasked with a major revamping of the winemaking facilities and especially replacement and renewal of the old barrels to make wines in a much purer, more modern style. The company also owns 1.2 hectares of vineyards in and around Beaune. The 2016 vintage was a collaborative effort between the outgoing David Croix and his replacement, Carel Voorhuis, formerly of Domaine d’Ardhuy. The transition is a smooth one, with Carel’s gentle touch following on seamlessly from David’s elegant style. Carel described the 2016 vintage as lighter than 2015, with more elegance and better balance. It is clear he has a preference for 2016, highlighting the expressive, aromatic characteristics of the wines and calling them “ethereal”. He explained that it was important to avoid over-ripeness by picking in good time, and emphasised the value of gentle extraction to prevent obtaining hard tannins.

This is the first vineyard to be harvested every year, with warmer soils, and it wasn’t frosted either. It offers a richer style, but with the freshness still pertinent. Olivier likes the maturity of the vintage, but feels it just needed more rain in August. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

Dense, dark-purple in colour, this has powerful, earthy fruit on the nose; in the mouth it is tight and tense, almost chocolatey, with dark fruit and considerable purity on the palate. Take this wine for intensity, the Clos des Mouches for grace.

One of the exciting aspects of a buyer’s job is to discover new talent on the way up: David and Blandine Moreau clearly fit that description. David began his sixth harvest on 11th September for the white wines and 17th September for his more numerous reds. He is happy with the yields, and characterises the 2014s as having “fresh, crunchy fruit”, finding them more concentrated than 2007, not as strict as 2013 and overall a millésime de plaisir.

David’s preferred Premier Cru is towards the southern end of Santenay. Glowing purple in colour, concentrated strawberry fruit is enlivened by a firm cherry thread. This is an energetic, heady wine with fresh fruit alongside the power. Drink 2020-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Moreau is very happy with his 2015s, describing it as a vintage without stress. The grapes, picked from 7th September, were ripe but with acidity in balance and with an adequate yield for once. For the vinification, David used slightly more stems this year in the interest of structure and freshness, with a slightly shorter length of time in the fermentation vats. Very encouraging wines.

David’s best plots of Santenay, with small millerand grapes, are reserved for this wine. A little lighter in colour than the Maranges, this is approachable with ripe, dense, red cherry notes, but some power behind. It has a certain warmth and weight, filling out nicely through the middle. Drink 2019-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Moreau is very happy with his 2015s, describing it as a vintage without stress. The grapes, picked from 7th September, were ripe but with acidity in balance and with an adequate yield for once. For the vinification, David used slightly more stems this year in the interest of structure and freshness, with a slightly shorter length of time in the fermentation vats. Very encouraging wines.

Half of the plots for this cuve are affected by court nou, whereby the length of cane between the buds is shortened, which reduced yields. There was also millerandage, which causes uneven development of the berries, requiring considerable selection at harvest. David wouldnt persist, however, if the result wasnt worthwhile. There is great purity of fruit in this wine and it distils much of the personality of Santenay, showing a certain rugged character, but with more caressing tannins than most. Drink 2020-2025. Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer David Moreau took over part of his octogenerian grandfathers domaine in Santenay in 2009. Prior to that, he worked with Olivier Lamy, Domaine de la RomaneConti, and at Neudorf in New Zealand. David now has seven hectares in production and has made significant changes in both viticulture and vinification. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s, so David has old vines to work with. He will soon become president of the local vine-growers syndicat a measure of the regard in which he is held. Once again, David is very happy with this years results. There was very little frost damage this far south and all his wines performed well in our barrel tastings. There is a confidence in Davids winemaking that raises expectations for some outperforming wines from this lesser-known part of Burgundy. The purity and transparency of 2016 suits his range very well.

Our other Premier Cru from David is selected as a contrast to the aesthetic lines of the Clos Rousseau. Grown on a 0.8-hectare plot, the initial impressions are of floral and red fruit perfumes, yet the palate is transformed by a delicious and mouth-watering minerality, entwined with ribbons of sweet cherry. The vineyard was wasteland until the 1960s, the last to be planted due to the challenges of farming the site. David’s grandfather saw its potential and so this wine has a place close to his heart. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

David Moreau took over part of his octogenerian grandfather’s domaine in Santenay in 2009. Prior to that, he worked with Olivier Lamy, Domaine de la RomanéeConti, and at Neudorf in New Zealand. David now has seven hectares in production and has made significant changes in both viticulture and vinification. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s, so David has old vines to work with. He will soon become president of the local vine-growers syndicat a measure of the regard in which he is held. Once again, David is very happy with this year’s results. There was very little frost damage this far south and all his wines performed well in our barrel tastings. There is a confidence in David’s winemaking that raises expectations for some outperforming wines from this lesser-known part of Burgundy. The purity and transparency of 2016 suits his range very well.

From the 2009 vintage, David Moreau took over part of his grandfather’s domaine in Santenay. Prior to that, he had worked with Olivier Lamy and Domaine de la Romanée Conti, as well as doing a stage in New Zealand at Neudorf. David made significant changes in both viticulture and vinification compared to the ancien régime. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s so he has old vines to work with.

With its pretty, stylish nose, this is graceful, elegant and nuanced. It is a wine of finesse, compared with David’s more muscular, dense Clos Rousseau.
This is an exciting new discovery for us: David Moreau has taken over part of his grandfather’s domaine in Santenay and has produced wines there since the 2009 vintage. Prior to that, he had worked with Olivier Lamy and Domaine de la Romanée Conti, as well as doing a stage in New Zealand at Neudorf. David made significant changes in both viticulture and vinification compared to the ancien régime. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s so he has old vines to work with. They are mostly pruned by cordon royat to minimise vigour, and the land is either ploughed or left with grass depending on the circumstance of a given plot.

Mostly made from old vines from Les Cornières and a little bit of Les Charmes, the rich black-purple of the vintage is evident. There is a faint whiff of new oak at first (on account of the one third new barrels) but then the fruit takes over. Great density of flavour, rounded, generous and long.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

We have been buying from David Moreau since his first vintage in 2009 and are delighted to have found such a class act at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune. There were little bits of hail in 2012 here but nothing very serious compared to other appellations. David chose to harvest relatively late, around 27th September, with yields between 18 and 33 hl/ha.
 

From the Clos des Roches Noires in the centre of this vineyard, there is an astonishing depth to the aromatics here, with hints of oriental spices alongside the classical Pinot fruit. The tannins are silky and refined; a classy wine with great distinction. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In January 2002 Maison Camille Giroud was bought by an American consortium led by banker Joe Wender and winery-owner Ann Colgin, and a new chapter began. David Croix was installed as the winemaker/ technical director and tasked with a major revamping of the winemaking facilities and especially replacement and renewal of the old barrels to make wines in a much purer, more modern style. The company also owns 1.2 hectares of vineyards in and around Beaune. The 2016 vintage was a collaborative effort between the outgoing David Croix and his replacement, Carel Voorhuis, formerly of Domaine d’Ardhuy. The transition is a smooth one, with Carel’s gentle touch following on seamlessly from David’s elegant style. Carel described the 2016 vintage as lighter than 2015, with more elegance and better balance. It is clear he has a preference for 2016, highlighting the expressive, aromatic characteristics of the wines and calling them “ethereal”. He explained that it was important to avoid over-ripeness by picking in good time, and emphasised the value of gentle extraction to prevent obtaining hard tannins.

This is a vineyard which was planted by David’s grandfather in the 1960s, having previously been scrub as its shallow limestone topsoil presented too great a challenge to vignerons. The delicate and perfumed nose gives the impression of a floral and elegant wine, but the palate offers surprising minerality in the form of mouth-watering tannins backed up by crunchy redcurrant fruit. Drink 2020-2026


David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes, a combination which marries perfectly with Davids precise and confident winemaking style.

Half of the vines for this cuvée suffer from court noué (fanleaf virus), which reduces the yield and causes millerandage; small berries which make concentrated wines. The nose offers subtle spice notes while the palate gives richness and density with some darker fruit flavours and rocky grip. Drink 2020-2024


David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes, a combination which marries perfectly with Davids precise and confident winemaking style.

One of the outstanding vineyards of the Santenay appellation, Clos Rousseau produces deep-coloured and powerful wines. David’s 2017 has an intense and sweetly spiced perfume with some floral touches courtesy of the inclusion of a good proportion of stems. The palate delivers rich, dense fruit which envelops the firm, chalky tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

David began picking on 7th September for his Pinot Noir, pointing out that while this was the same date as in 2015, the two vintages have contrasting profiles. David used the word digeste to describe the 2017s, suggesting these are wines which will have you reaching for the next glass. The character of the vintage is one of freshness, purity, bright red fruit and floral notes,  a combination which marries perfectly  with David’s precise and confident winemaking style

This is an excellent white wine vineyard, sunny and high in limestone. It has an appealing citrus note and some interesting creamy notes on the mid-palate, while the finish is quite dense, hiding the usual lemony acidity, but also foretelling the complexity to come. Drink 2023-2029.


This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines ascroquant (crunchy).

The clue is in the name of the vineyard, where there is some gravel, and also clay in the upper part, which is where Olivier has his Pinot Noir. The wine has good ripeness and even a sense of lushness on the midpalate. Not at all angular; this is very well-judged. Drink 2020-2024.


This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines ascroquant (crunchy).

This is a blend of Les Bras and Les Saunières, both of which touch Premiers Crus. The former is high on the steep, south-facing slope, while the latter is lower down on heavier soil and facing east. Really pleasing, fresh and ready to drink. Drink 2020-2024.

With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).

This is a fine reminder of the potential of the “lesser” Burgundian villages. Admittedly this comes from the sweet spot in the Clos Rousseau vineyard, the Clos des Roches Noires, but there is a delicious creamy completeness about the wine, with complex aromas of spice and damson. Drink 2022-2027.

With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).

A dense, bright, dark red with delicious fruit on the nose, this is very classy. The nose is multi-layered with real density. There is a good acid balance to this, with an attractive admixture of new wood (30 percent) giving a touch of liquorice. This displays intensity but neither heat nor undue weight. Very succulent; a winner this year. Drink 2020-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Moreau is very happy with his 2015s, describing it as a vintage without stress. The grapes, picked from 7th September, were ripe but with acidity in balance and with an adequate yield for once. For the vinification, David used slightly more stems this year in the interest of structure and freshness, with a slightly shorter length of time in the fermentation vats. Very encouraging wines.

This is an exciting new discovery for us: David Moreau has taken over part of his grandfather’s domaine in Santenay and has produced wines there since the 2009 vintage. Prior to that, he had worked with Olivier Lamy and Domaine de la Romanée Conti, as well as doing a stage in New Zealand at Neudorf. David made significant changes in both viticulture and vinification compared to the ancien regime. The vineyards were almost all planted in the 1960s so he has old vines to work with. They are mostly pruned by cordon royat to minimise vigour, and the land is either ploughed or left with grass depending on the circumstance of a given plot.

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With pure, intense Pinot Noir fruit on the nose, this has a lovely weight of fruit on the palate with the promise of much more to come as it develops. It is quite compact, with a welcome touch of acidity.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director