Meursault Lieu-Dit

This higher vineyard above the village, southeast- facing, was entirely frost-free this year. W hen we tasted, it was showing as quite fresh, but there is plenty of substance here, and the 33 percent new oak is not evident, boding well for the future. The finish is equally promising, with some excellent Meursault detail emerging.
Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Javilliers have been involved in the wine business for generations as courtiers. When Patrick started out in 1974 this was the main source of his income, alongside which he worked three hectares of vineyards. His courtier days are now long behind him, and his domaine covers nine hectares. Recently, Patrick has been joined by his daughter Marion and her brother-in-law Pierre- Emmanuel Lamy. Patrick is not far away from 50 vintages; Marion is now making the estate’s red wines, and Pierre-Emmanuel largely does the whites – not that Patrick is taking a back seat. As always, conversation with him is peppered with observations; indeed he has been closely involved in the discussions to create a new generic Côte d’Or appellation, a move that would appear to now just need a rubber stamp. There wasn’t too much frost damage here and harvesting began on 20th September; Patrick observes that the character of the vintage is one that can take a bit more bâtonnage than usual.

From one of Meursault’s finest village vineyards, this displays apples and lemons up front, peaches and pears behind and class throughout. It opens out very nicely on the palate with a delicious tangy lingering finish and real persistence.

Production of the Dominique Lafon wines has now moved to large cellars at the Château de Bligny, providing much better working conditions than previously. As a result of the hail, there is unlikely to be any village Volnay or Beaune Épenottes for us to offer. However, Dominique has found an excellent source of Beaune Vignes Franches this year to make up part of the shortfall. This cuvée apart, all the vineyards are managed by the Les Héretiers du Comte Lafon viticultural team, using the same methods. Starting this year, the wines will all be bottled using Diam30 corks.

With a lovely, pale colour, this wine has a very soft, appealing nose – very graceful. The palate offers a sensual, cashmere-like texture, with a little touch of yellow fruit, then a classy, tingling, mineral finish.

Jean-Baptiste liked the fruit and the flesh of his 2014s from the start, but since October he feels that the structure and sense of class have become apparent. He was happily surprised to find such regular, healthy fruit despite the hail, and, apart from the size of the crop, there was no discernible difference between the hailed vineyards and the others. Overall his crop was 40 percent below a normal year, and 10 percent below 2013, so his pricing this year is eminently fair.

Medium pale colour, the nose shows the volume of fruit to come. This is more backward than Gruyaches or Chevalières. It boasts an excellent mineral thread with greengage fruit, middleweight, structure and persistence.

Jean-Philippe is serene in the knowledge of the quality of his 2014 vintage. The grapes were entirely healthy, there were no problems in vinification, the maturation process is happening as it should and the wines are set to give a great deal of pleasure all round. There is less reduction than last year, so they will be accessible reasonably early, while still having good keeping potential.

The wine has a fine, pale colour with a light green tint. The palate is very lively, with exciting fruit, some lime blossom; a vivacious, medium density; good finesse, long and stylish. This has an excellent persistent finish, fresh and delicious.

Patrick likes the freshness and purity of 2014, with nothing that hints at vulgarity. He compares the vintage to 2002 and the best of 2004. Elegance is the hallmark of 2014 but there is good body too, with the wines coming in at or just over 13 percent alcohol. The wines were bottled in the autumn.

Pale lemon-yellow, with a lemon verbena nose, this is really fine and balanced on the palate, with good fruit weight. There is a little touch of graphite helping to retain a mineral freshness.

“A vintage of pure happiness,” enthuses Nicolas Potel. He rightly retains enthusiasm for Burgundy as a whole and his own wines in particular, though his life has been made more difficult by the explosion of prices for grapes on the open market. However these cuvées make sense to us: we tasted a wide range and picked out the plums.

Discreet wood surrounds ripe white peach, lemon rind and acacia blossom as well as a soft roasted nut character. There is excellent richness yet good detail too to the intense and mouth coating flavors that somewhat curiously, do not have the depth of the Gruyaches or the Chevalières, at least not yet anyway. We'll see in a few years as there is at least the underlying material to develop it. Note however that this is sufficiently forward that there isn't a lot of time in which to do so.
Allen Meadows - burghound.com - February 2011

Weighty and ripe with a touch of verbena adding spice to the nose, this is smart wine for the money. The fruit steadily grows in the mouth before the impressive finish that shows hints of lemon grass.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Production has recently moved to a new facility on the outskirts of Beaune, which is making life much easier for the Roche de Bellene team. The philosophy stays the same: work with excellent grape sources and get the wines out into the market at competitive prices. The reds have had an excellent following for many a year now, while recently the whites have shown the same impressive price to quality ratio that makes this such a good address.

There were only 100 cases of this new wine produced in 2010, which is a shame at it provides terrific, elegant Meursault. Pure, clean and bright with a very chiselled, mineral nose, it is crunchy on the palate before it fattens out. The whole is suffused with a floral perfume.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

The former Domaine René Manuel has been purchased by investors, the vineyards being split between Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Roulot while Dominique Lafon himself has moved production of his own label wines to the Manuel cellars in Meursault, as well as gaining some Bourgogne Blanc vines. Though Dominique operates officially under the status of negociant, all the wines are domaine grown and bottled except the Bourgogne Blanc, which will be next year.

Pleasingly gentle and graceful on the nose, with a just a little lemon and lime hints this is surprisingly more intense than fleshy on the palate, with a crystalline purity added to the finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau started picking early on 17th September in 2010, continuing over the following nine days as the vineyards ripened. His wines maintain their traditional status as excellent value for money, while the move to his new cellars two years ago has improved the consistency of the range and purity too. The aromatics of this 2010 vintage remind Jean-Baptiste of 2002, but perhaps with greater flesh.

The wine has an attractive lemon and lime colour and, although the nose is full and properly ripe and also displays a fine mineral tension. It is lively and delicious, with a little youthful bitterness and some fresh apricot fruit in the mix.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

 

Jean-Philippe feels this is the perfect example of Meursault. There is a nice touch of gunflint reduction on the nose, which leads into intense stone fruit before tightening up again with a twist of lime acidity on the finish. There is real elegance here, with a touch of toast and butter that lingers. A complete wine. Drink 2021-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Fichet’s big step forward came in 2000 when he moved the whole operation to splendid cellars at Le Creux du Coche by the Hôpital de Meursault. Jean-Philippe is looking for purity in his wines. He deals mostly with lieux-dits in Meursault with just one Premier Cru in Puligny. Constantly experimenting and refining, his wines have real definition and individuality, with the individual terroirs clearly exposed. The wines are raised in barrel for the first year, using larger demi- muids for the lesser appellations, then assembled in tank. A maximum of 30 percent new oak is used on any cuvée. It is hard not to be infected by Jean- Philippe’s enthusiasm and positivity. Despite being 40 percent down in 2016, he remained upbeat, explaining that he sees the variability of vintages as part and parcel of a vigneron ’s lot. The losses could have been much worse, but the domaine is equipped with candles which protect against frost and they work hard in the vines to keep grass low to reduce the risk of frost damage. He declared himself happy with the quality, but feels it is a vintage which will require patience on the part of the consumer, as many of the wines will be more austere in youth than those of 2015.

This vineyard was not frosted at all, meaning a good crop this year. The quality is outstanding too; a delicious wine with great finesse, it simply feels effortless. There is a gorgeous crystalline energy without being aggressive. Silky and seductive. Drink 2021-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Fichet’s big step forward came in 2000 when he moved the whole operation to splendid cellars at Le Creux du Coche by the Hôpital de Meursault. Jean-Philippe is looking for purity in his wines. He deals mostly with lieux-dits in Meursault with just one Premier Cru in Puligny. Constantly experimenting and refining, his wines have real definition and individuality, with the individual terroirs clearly exposed. The wines are raised in barrel for the first year, using larger demi- muids for the lesser appellations, then assembled in tank. A maximum of 30 percent new oak is used on any cuvée. It is hard not to be infected by Jean- Philippe’s enthusiasm and positivity. Despite being 40 percent down in 2016, he remained upbeat, explaining that he sees the variability of vintages as part and parcel of a vigneron ’s lot. The losses could have been much worse, but the domaine is equipped with candles which protect against frost and they work hard in the vines to keep grass low to reduce the risk of frost damage. He declared himself happy with the quality, but feels it is a vintage which will require patience on the part of the consumer, as many of the wines will be more austere in youth than those of 2015.

This vineyard is only four hectares, higher on the slope above Grands Charrons, with lighter soils containing more limestone. The wine is tendu (tense) with lifted notes of acacia and honeysuckle. With vines over 50 years old, it’s a little gem. Drink 2022-2029.

The harvest started on 30th August in Cailleret and Charmes, and was finished by 9th September. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay flowered in warm weather at the same time but, while the Pinot loved the heat, Chardonnay did not, with the resulting coulure and millerandage restricting yields to around 50hl/ha. Jean-Baptiste looked to get texture into his wines with skin contact and an extended fermentation rather than through bâtonnage, seeking to capture as much of the vital balancing freshness as possible.

This is from a clos at the top of the vineyard which sits above Genevrières. Three barrels were made this year. The southerly aspect and shallow soil give floral aromas and a peachy fruit profile with pleasing heft in the mid-palate and an intense, saline minerality that kicks on to the finish and lingers. Drink 2022-2028.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

For those who enjoy mineral expressions of Meursault, Tesson is one of the most highly regarded village vineyards, facing east on the mid-slope. The nose is pure and clean with a marine character, while the palate is tight and tense with lots of energy and vibrancy, nicely supported by just enough fruit. Drink 2022-2029.

Jean-Philippe explained how he and his vineyard team had to work extremely hard in the aftermath of the 2016 frost, managing the vines to make sure that the following year’s growth would not be compromised. Meticulous marathonrunner Jean-Philippe is just the man for such an arduous task. He is delighted with the results, explaining that quality is excellent and the yield was neither too big, nor too small. These wines are as reliably fresh and precise as you would expect, with each vineyard’s character shining through.

At the same altitude as Meursault’s Premiers Crus, but facing more easterly, this is the last vineyard before Auxey-Duresses. Sébastien has 0.44 hectares, two-thirds planted in 1977, the rest in 1993. The wine has his trademark subtle note of reduction, a lively lime-citrus note and a lovely lift on the palate, this time with lime-blossom. Drink 2021-2026.

Patrick has been making this 60-40 blend of two lieux-dits, Les Clous (0.35 hectares beside Les Tillets) and Les Crotots (0.25 hectares below Poruzots), for years. Les Clous is clay-rich and the resulting wine is lush, but still with good energy. The palate is creamy and sunny, while the palate offers texture and freshness. Drink 2021-2025.

The domaine has six parcels in this vineyard, totalling 1.7 hectares, with vines between 30 and 70 years old. Always floral and racy, the wine can also show an herbal note, this year in the form of verbena. Never a heavy Meursault, the wine is open and expressive. Drink 2021-2025.

At the same elevation at the Premiers Crus, Les Grands Charrons is a large vineyard with more limestone on the higher ground, where Jean-Baptiste has the majority of his two parcels. With some lime blossom and citrus, there’s a touch of stone on the finish, and an appealing freshness. Drink 2022-2027.

This centrally placed, steeply sloping vineyard is probably the pick of the Meursault village lieux-dits. Jean-Philippe has just under one hectare of vines planted in 1949, ’65 and ’76. Its easterly exposition gives a more mineral style, with an intense lift of fruit on the finish. Drink 2022-2029.