Meursault Lieu-Dit

The planting dates here vary from 1951 to 1992, giving a pleasing blend of vibrant young-vine fruit and old-vine concentration. The lower-lying vines were hit by the frost which has given an extra layer of concentration and nervosity to the wine. Jean-Baptiste racked this into tank in July to preserve freshness. There is a touch of ripe citrus fruit, good medium weight and a pleasing phenolic grip to the finish. Drink 2020-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Bouzereau clan is widespread in the village of Meursault, with Domaine Michel Bouzereau at the forefront. Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau, Michel’s son, is now in sole charge. He moved to a purpose-built winery in 2009 which has made the winemaking a great deal easier to manage and has enabled Jean-Baptiste to refine his style towards greater purity as well as more substance. The wines are racked after 11 months, with the better village Meursaults and all the Premiers Crus being returned to barrel for additional ageing, before bottling early the following year. Jean-Baptiste explained that frost was more of a problem in the lower-lying Grands Charrons vineyard than Tessons and the Premiers Crus which sit on the slope. Overall he is around a third down on a normal year, mainly in the lesser appellations. Harvest began on 22nd September for the whites, and took place in good conditions. He feels that 2016 is a vintage which will appeal to Burgundy lovers, and one which shows each terroir with great clarity.

This higher vineyard above the village, southeast- facing, was entirely frost-free this year. W hen we tasted, it was showing as quite fresh, but there is plenty of substance here, and the 33 percent new oak is not evident, boding well for the future. The finish is equally promising, with some excellent Meursault detail emerging.
Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Javilliers have been involved in the wine business for generations as courtiers. When Patrick started out in 1974 this was the main source of his income, alongside which he worked three hectares of vineyards. His courtier days are now long behind him, and his domaine covers nine hectares. Recently, Patrick has been joined by his daughter Marion and her brother-in-law Pierre- Emmanuel Lamy. Patrick is not far away from 50 vintages; Marion is now making the estate’s red wines, and Pierre-Emmanuel largely does the whites – not that Patrick is taking a back seat. As always, conversation with him is peppered with observations; indeed he has been closely involved in the discussions to create a new generic Côte d’Or appellation, a move that would appear to now just need a rubber stamp. There wasn’t too much frost damage here and harvesting began on 20th September; Patrick observes that the character of the vintage is one that can take a bit more bâtonnage than usual.

From vines planted in 1958 and 1989, there was very little frost damage here. Tessons is a favourite site, on the same contour as the upper section of Genevrières and Perrières, but facing slightly more towards the east. There is a pleasant weight of fruit on the entry, before the mid-palate opens and develops with brisk acidity to give a wine of great elegance and freshness. Ethereal. Drink 2021-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Bouzereau clan is widespread in the village of Meursault, with Domaine Michel Bouzereau at the forefront. Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau, Michel’s son, is now in sole charge. He moved to a purpose-built winery in 2009 which has made the winemaking a great deal easier to manage and has enabled Jean-Baptiste to refine his style towards greater purity as well as more substance. The wines are racked after 11 months, with the better village Meursaults and all the Premiers Crus being returned to barrel for additional ageing, before bottling early the following year. Jean-Baptiste explained that frost was more of a problem in the lower-lying Grands Charrons vineyard than Tessons and the Premiers Crus which sit on the slope. Overall he is around a third down on a normal year, mainly in the lesser appellations. Harvest began on 22nd September for the whites, and took place in good conditions. He feels that 2016 is a vintage which will appeal to Burgundy lovers, and one which shows each terroir with great clarity.

Medium pale colour, the nose shows the volume of fruit to come. This is more backward than Gruyaches or Chevalières. It boasts an excellent mineral thread with greengage fruit, middleweight, structure and persistence.

Jean-Philippe is serene in the knowledge of the quality of his 2014 vintage. The grapes were entirely healthy, there were no problems in vinification, the maturation process is happening as it should and the wines are set to give a great deal of pleasure all round. There is less reduction than last year, so they will be accessible reasonably early, while still having good keeping potential.

The wine has a fine, pale colour with a light green tint. The palate is very lively, with exciting fruit, some lime blossom; a vivacious, medium density; good finesse, long and stylish. This has an excellent persistent finish, fresh and delicious.

Patrick likes the freshness and purity of 2014, with nothing that hints at vulgarity. He compares the vintage to 2002 and the best of 2004. Elegance is the hallmark of 2014 but there is good body too, with the wines coming in at or just over 13 percent alcohol. The wines were bottled in the autumn.

From a favourite hillside vineyard, this has a pale straw colour, with a lovely, open aromatic white fruit nose, swelling fruit on the palate, perfect fruit/acid balance and very good length.

“This is definitely the best vintage I have made in white,” says Benjamin. “The wines have great vineyard definition; I would just have loved to have made more. It is my style of vintage.” His reds, too, have gorgeous layers of ripe fruit, so 2014 is clearly a significant success all round for Benjamin.

Further cuvées are available from Benjamin and can be found at www.bbr. com/burgundy2014. Note – all the white wines will be bottled under top-quality screwcaps, StelvinLux Plus.

This tightly wound, nutty, and spiced apple-flavoured Meursault wine offers hints of white flowers and peaches. It is lush, soft and appealing. Drink it over the next 4 years. The quality shows in the persistent finish.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

Patrick Javillier has made a stunning Les Clous in 2005. Delicious toasty aromas on the nose are followed by a real sense of weight and harmony. Layers of flavour overlap on the palate culminating in a long and complex finish. Drink 2010-2015.

Weighty and ripe with a touch of verbena adding spice to the nose, this is smart wine for the money. The fruit steadily grows in the mouth before the impressive finish that shows hints of lemon grass.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Production has recently moved to a new facility on the outskirts of Beaune, which is making life much easier for the Roche de Bellene team. The philosophy stays the same: work with excellent grape sources and get the wines out into the market at competitive prices. The reds have had an excellent following for many a year now, while recently the whites have shown the same impressive price to quality ratio that makes this such a good address.

Richer in style than Jean-Philippe’s Les Chevaliers, this has some floral notes but also a great sense of weight. There is a touch of yellow fruit, and even a little tannin alongside the acidity. Quite frankly, this is a Premier Cru quality wine.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director The model here in Fichet’s ultra-meticulous cellars, near the Hôpital de Meursault, is for the wines to spend one year in wood, with bigger barrels for the lesser appellations, and then for them to be racked into tank for the second winter. We adore Fichet’s style of pure, energetic Meursault while even his Bourgogne Blanc tastes like a superior appellation.

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Nothing heavy-handed here. Fichet brings his customary finesse to this rich and refreshing Meursault. Nutty oak sublimely supports the fruit in a lingering finish.
Edwin Dublin, London Shop Assistant Manager

The Roche de Bellene team deliver great value in white wines as well as reds. This comes from an excellent hillside vineyard and is full of fruit on the palate with a lovely crisp finish.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer - June 2012)

From 25-year-old vines in this excellent hillside site, this is a tight and lean Meursault from Roche de Bellene, yet it retains real character. The wonderful purity is complemented by complexity and there is an engaging liveliness.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer - Apr 2010)

The vineyard’s stony profile is captured on the nose, with beguiling gunflint notes intertwined with precise citrus fruit. The palate is mineral, lean and crisp, with crackling energy and tension. The weight arrives on the finish, accompanied by plenty of dry extract. This is intense and assertive Meursault. Drink 2022-2027.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

For those who enjoy mineral expressions of Meursault, Tesson is one of the most highly regarded village vineyards, facing east on the mid-slope. The nose is pure and clean with a marine character, while the palate is tight and tense with lots of energy and vibrancy, nicely supported by just enough fruit. Drink 2022-2029.

Jean-Philippe explained how he and his vineyard team had to work extremely hard in the aftermath of the 2016 frost, managing the vines to make sure that the following year’s growth would not be compromised. Meticulous marathonrunner Jean-Philippe is just the man for such an arduous task. He is delighted with the results, explaining that quality is excellent and the yield was neither too big, nor too small. These wines are as reliably fresh and precise as you would expect, with each vineyard’s character shining through.

The lovely, racy personality of this vineyard is well served by the generosity of 2017. The wine is very fruity and open, with notes of white flower and peach stone, but counterpointed by a firm, detailed structure, typical of this lime-rich site. Drink 2021-2025.

Since our visit last year, Patrick’s dream of an appellation exclusively for generic wines from the Côte d’Or has been realised and the label of the estate’s estimable Cuvée Oligocène proudly announces its new status. For 2017, Patrick’s daughter Marion explained, they didn’t need to keep too much of the lees, as the musts were already rich and they preferred to use bâtonnage for complexity. Harvesting began on 28th August and Marion feels there is a purer expression of terroir this year than last.