Pinot Noir
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Crittenden Estate,
Ready, but will keep,
Produced specially for Berry Bros. & Rudd by Crittenden, this is an exceptionally pure Pinot Noir. It is made with hand-harvested fruit selected from cool-climate sites in the King Valley in Victoria. The berry-fruit characters that dominate the nose and palate are fresh and juicy, supported by finely wrought tannins and vibrant acidity.
Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer
Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer
Greystone Wines,
Ready, but will keep,
Made for us once again by Greystone in North Canterbury, our 2017 New Zealand Pinot Noir is a wonderfully pretty and delicate wine. We love the fact that Greystone reflects the vintage conditions so well each year in its wines; this 2017 does not have the intense, smoky character of 2016 but, in contrast, is a much more Burgundian style, full of very pure red-berry fruit with just a touch of black cherries. It is lifted, ethereal and a joy to taste.
Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Greystone Wines,
Ready, but will keep,
We love working with Greystone on New Zealand’s South Island. Each vintage winemaker Don Maxwell makes impresses us even more than the last. The 2018 is a beautifully delicate wine. It has a lovely balance of crunchy, fresh red and black cherry fruit but in this vintage, in particular, it has seriously impressive poise and focus. A line of stony minerality runs right through its core while a floral lift of violets and herbs adds complexity and interest. This is a really impressive wine to rival any Bourgogne Rouge.
Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Benjamin Leroux,
Ready, but will improve,
Our Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir is a new addition to our own-label range, made from 100 percent Côte d’Or fruit to obtain this prestigious new appellation (which only came into existence from the 2017 vintage). The fruit is in fact declassified Chorey-lès-Beaune, from very old vines and sourced with the help of star négociant Benjamin Leroux exclusively for Berry Bros. & Rudd. Unsurprisingly, the wine offers remarkable complexity, with pretty, floral top-notes accompanying the charming red-berry fruit. Elegant and delicate, this is Burgundian Pinot Noir in its most elemental expression.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Ready, but will keep,
This Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir is a relatively new addition to our Own Selection range, made specially for us by the highly regarded winemaker Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat. The 2017 follows a similar flavour profile to the 2016, with raspberries and red cherries, however its riper, juicier bramble fruit and luscious texture display the vintage's generous characteristics. The wine's ripe tannins provide sufficient grip on the finish, balanced by refreshing acidity and spicy complexity.
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Benjamin Leroux,
Ready, but will keep,
The fruit for our 2017 Nuits-St Georges comes from 50-year-old vines in three different vineyards. Les Fleurières, to the south of the village, provides spice and dark cherry fruit, while Aux Herbues and Aux St Jacques, both near the border with Vosne-Romanée, provide juicy red fruit and floral perfume. The result is a delicious and charming expression of this famous village; the delicately floral nose offers hints of fragrant spice and subtle wafts of kirsch, while the palate is expressive with generous cranberry fruit, sweet vanilla oak and a crunchy, salivating finish. Drink now to 2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
Ready, but will keep,
Made by Rossignol-Trapet, our 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin is made with fruit from 10 organically farmed, old-vine plots. The old vines provide both concentration and balance, while the varied locations of the parcels give a true expression of the village. A bouquet of vibrant redcurrant and flowers seduces, while the palate is packed with sweet cherry fruit and subtle spice, finishing on a precise and mineral finish. Try it with roast lamb or mushroom Wellington.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Denis Jamain, Reuilly,
Ready, but will keep,
Denis Jamain is something of a standard-bearer for Reuilly and is responsible for the majority of exports from the appellation. Half of his 21-hectare domaine is now organic as he converts the estate gradually parcel by parcel while battling esca, frost and mildew on a regular basis. Alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, he has five hectares of Pinot Noir.
Taking its name from the flat pebbles that decorate the vineyard, this superb Pinot Noir is pale in colour with a gorgeous floral perfume, charming red-berry flavours and gentle, silky tannins. It is more than a match for most Bourgogne Rouges, let alone reds from neighbouring Sancerre. Drink now to 2022.
Taking its name from the flat pebbles that decorate the vineyard, this superb Pinot Noir is pale in colour with a gorgeous floral perfume, charming red-berry flavours and gentle, silky tannins. It is more than a match for most Bourgogne Rouges, let alone reds from neighbouring Sancerre. Drink now to 2022.
Drink now,
Sancerre rosé from a quality producer like David Sautereau is a delightful, versatile wine that combines complexity with a sense of insouciance. David’s 2017 is a case in point. It’s characterised by floral and red berry aromas, fine tannins and “crunchy” acidity. A natural accompaniment to salads or poached salmon, it has sufficient personality to stand up to richer dishes too, such as Moroccan lamb tagine. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Ready, but will improve,
Vincent Toreye, a passionate young winemaker, now leads the family business based in one of Germany’s warmest regions: the Pfalz. The estate focuses on a clear expression of terroir with several single-site wines. All its wines are certified both organic and biodynamic, highlighting the family’s focus on sustainability.
This is an accessible and refreshing Pinot Noir of outstanding value with bright red cherry and raspberry fruit aromas. Herbal top notes combine with a savoury spice character which continues on the mid-palate. The chalky tannins are balanced by lively acidity. Unfined and unfiltered, this wine offers an intriguing alternative to Burgundy. Drink now to 2022.
Simon & Daniel Chotard,
Drink now,
Their delicious rosé is the one wine from Domaine Chotard that’s raised exclusively in stainless steel. The aim is to capture the floral lift and red-berry crunch inherent in Pinot Noir grown on the pebbly limestone soil known here as griottes. Expect aromas of rose petals and tinned strawberries, while the palate – for all its lively acidity – is a touch weightier than expected, with ripe red fruit flavours indicative of 2018’s warm growing season. A versatile food wine, this works particularly well with grilled salmon. Drink now to 2020.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Ready, but will keep,
This hidden gem is located up in the village of Meloisey, high in the hills behind Pommard. Brother and sister Martial and Gaetane Carré have recently taken over running the estate from their father, Denis, and have focused on making wines which are fruit-forward but with structure and complexity.
Bright ruby in colour with some youthful purple highlights, the nose is an absolute joy with an explosion of inviting summer pudding aromas. The palate doesn’t disappoint, with juicy cranberry and redcurrant and a fresh acidity that will leave you wanting another glass. Drink now to 2021.
Bright ruby in colour with some youthful purple highlights, the nose is an absolute joy with an explosion of inviting summer pudding aromas. The palate doesn’t disappoint, with juicy cranberry and redcurrant and a fresh acidity that will leave you wanting another glass. Drink now to 2021.
Olivier Merlin,
For laying down,
This is from young vines which come from cuttings of old Pinot Fin taken from the Clos des Epeneaux around 20 years ago. The class of the plant material shows on the nose, which is packed with pretty red berries. The palate is nice and juicy, with lots of ripe strawberry and cherry fruit, and chalky tannins. Drink 2019-2024.
Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.
Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.
Sebastien Magnien,
Ready, but will improve,
The Clos de la Perrière is one of the outstanding sites of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, facing south on stony and shallow soil. The nose has a lovely, lifted perfume which leads on to a textured palate packed with pure red-cherry fruit and dense tannins. This will truly hit its stride with a few years in bottle. Drink 2020-2024.
A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place. This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.
A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place. This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.
Michele & Patrice Rion,
For laying down,
Maxime Rion now makes most of the decisions at this exemplary estate, although he can call on his father Patrice – approaching his 40th vintage as a winemaker – for guidance. The Rions are a talented, forward-thinking family who were among the first in Burgundy to bottle some of their wines under screwcap, and whose eco-friendly tractor shed boasts solar panels and a rainwater purification system.
This is a fresh, fruit-driven Burgundy from vineyards just above Nuits-St Georges. It is raised exclusively in used oak, which rounds the tannins and accentuates the wild, spicy character redolent of Nuits. Drink now to 2021.
This is a fresh, fruit-driven Burgundy from vineyards just above Nuits-St Georges. It is raised exclusively in used oak, which rounds the tannins and accentuates the wild, spicy character redolent of Nuits. Drink now to 2021.
Michele & Patrice Rion,
For laying down,
Situated just above the vineyards of Nuits-St Georges, Les Dames Huguettes is at an altitude of 300 to 450 metres, giving the wine a vivacious freshness and vibrancy. The fruit is crunchy with a cool freshness, chalky tannins and a touch of spice which gives a nod to Nuits. Drink 2019-2024.
Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.
Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.
Michele & Patrice Rion,
For laying down,
After the frost of 2016, Patrice is relieved to have this back on form and reports that the vines are in good health. The nose has a pretty, floral profile, which along with the charming, supple fruit and silky tannins, confirms this wine’s reputation as a mini Chambolle. Always great value. Drink 2019-2024.
Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.
Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.
Domaine Jean Fournier,
Ready, but will keep,
In Marsannay, it is not St Vincent but St Urbain who holds sway as the patron saint of vignerons. His eponymous cuvée is a blend of various village sites and older vines. There was no new oak in 2016, and 25 percent whole-bunch. It was aged in larger 500-litre barrels, then spent three months in concrete, which Laurent prefers to stainless steel, which has too cold a touch, he says. The wine has a deep, viscous nose, almost like marmite, and a positive, rich, earthy palate. This makes it sound rustic; it’s not, just characterful Pinot Noir from deep, cool soils. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.
Ready, but will improve,
The frost damage of 2016 has necessitated a different blend this year, but the result is exciting nonetheless. The 2016 cuvée includes some vineyards Thibault is now looking after in Chambolle, adding a touch of class to the mix, and giving a wine with pretty red fruit, a floral lift and surprising depth. This is not a wine of great body, but there is good length and a certain elegance. Drink 2018-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.