Sancerre
Sancerre is a famous white Sauvignon Blanc appellation located on the left bank of the Loire. Its 14 communes are widely dispersed, covering nearly 3,000 hectares over vertiginous valleys at up to 350 metres above sea level, and three distinct soil types. As with nearby Pouilly-Fumé, an increasing number of single-vineyard wines are being raised in French oak, mostly 500-litre and demi-muids.
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The 2017 vintage was notable for a spring frost and warm summer, producing a concentrated and very drinkable wine with ripe fruit flavours. The nose offers attractive gooseberry aromas, while the palate is juicy and rounded with notes of citrus and a chalky, mouth-watering finish.
The 2017 vintage was notable for a spring frost and warm summer, producing a concentrated and very drinkable wine with ripe fruit flavours. The nose offers attractive gooseberry aromas, while the palate is juicy and rounded with notes of citrus and a chalky, mouth-watering finish.
Domaine de la Rossignole,
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This wine’s subtle peachy aroma hints at 2018’s warm growing season, but brothers François and Jean-Marie upped the proportion of fruit from flinty soils to ensure this blend remains fresh and mineral on the palate. A versatile food wine, it works well with anything from asparagus risotto to Thai fish cakes. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Domaine Roblin,
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From one of the appellation’s rising stars, this is a classic, mineral Sancerre with citrus and herbaceous aromas to the fore, as well as subtle tropical notes indicative of the warm 2018 vintage. Alban favours stainless steel for his white (he also makes an excellent rosé and red Sancerre) with about six months on the fine lees contributing extra complexity and weight to the palate. He suggests pairing it with shellfish or goat’s cheese – a local delicacy – but it also shines alongside fish tacos or asparagus risotto. Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Andre Dezat,
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The Dezat family have long been standard-bearers for Sancerre, and this wine illustrates precisely why. Ebullient yet terroir-driven, its complex bouquet combines tropical fruit with classic citrus and herbaceous aromas. The 2018 was blended from parcels on three different soil types – primarily the pebbly limestone known here as caillottes – then spent two months on its lees (in stainless steel tanks) gaining complexity and texture prior to bottling in spring 2019. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Simon & Daniel Chotard,
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Grapes from three parcels on three different soil types are vinified separately, then blended to create this exemplary Sancerre. It’s characterised by an herbaceous edge and shimmering acidity, even in a warm vintage like 2018. A small proportion of the blend is raised in acacia barrels, another in large oak foudres and the remainder (over 80%) in stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine delivers a rounded, stone-fruit character on the mid-palate, followed by a refreshing wave of citrus, which crashes then slowly retreats across the palate, giving way to a long, saline finish. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Simon & Daniel Chotard,
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This is an exemplary Sancerre, raised in a combination of stainless steel and large oak foudres, which add breadth to the palate but no discernible oaky aromas – indeed, the nose is a paean to Sauvignon Blanc, with aromas including grass, gooseberry and passionfruit. There’s a slight smoky character to the long, fresh finish. A memorable match for warm goats’ cheese.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant, summer 2018.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant, summer 2018.
Simon & Daniel Chotard,
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Their delicious rosé is the one wine from Domaine Chotard that’s raised exclusively in stainless steel. The aim is to capture the floral lift and red-berry crunch inherent in Pinot Noir grown on the pebbly limestone soil known here as griottes. Expect aromas of rose petals and tinned strawberries, while the palate – for all its lively acidity – is a touch weightier than expected, with ripe red fruit flavours indicative of 2018’s warm growing season. A versatile food wine, this works particularly well with grilled salmon. Drink now to 2020.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Domaine Riffault,
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Expressive and voluptuous, with aromas of orchard fruit and lemon confit, Les Boucauds is raised in a judicious combination of oak (70% of the blend) and concrete. Open and up-front it may be, but this cuvée shows remarkable persistence on the palate, culminating in the mineral “wet stone” finish characteristic of the best wines of Sancerre. Already certified organic, Stéphane began farming Les Boucauds biodynamically in 2018. Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Domaine Riffault,
Ready, but will keep,
Chasseignes is a cooler, more (lime)stoney site than Boucauds, giving a more focused, mineral wine which Stéphane chooses to age in large oak foudres and 350-litre barrels. The nose is complex, with aromas of spice, white flowers and lemon, while the palate is pithy, almost tannic, and segues into a long, refreshing finish redolent of lemon and quinine. What a match for oysters this would be! Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Domaine Francois Cotat, Chavignol,
Ready, but will keep,
Picked from Francois Cotat's youngest vines, from 5 years upwards, still within the confines of the village of Chavignol if on slightly flatter ground. The net result is a Francois Cotat wine that can be lapped up if its youth. As you would expect, the wine shows impeccable manners, along with a crystalline purity, freshness and scintillating detail. Perfect as an aperitif or with starters.
David Berry Green
David Berry Green
Domaine Francois Cotat, Chavignol,
Ready, but will keep,
2009 Les Culs de Beaujeu - like the statue of Christ overlooking Rio, so Francois's 'Les Culs de Beaujeu' hovers high above the village of Chavignol. 'Culs' in this sense means a sharp incline, not surprising the given the minimum 60% gradient. Standing among the low, gnarled vines of approx 35 yo, you feel like you're in one of those fairground 'big dippers' as it pauses before plunging down below.
This vineyard has more clay which perhaps accounts for its velvety charm. Tasting the 2009 I was struck by its cool composure in the face of some evidently richer than average fruit. Very subtle, creamy, plenty of detail, yet lacy all the same. Dry despite the presence of approx 5 grams of residual sugar; the sugar balanced by the vineyard's taut minerality. Good for 20 years at least, but drinking from 2014 I'd say.
The 2009 vintage was influenced by hail, draught hence an earlier smaller than average harvest, this is one of those rich sunny years where the personality of the vintage comes through stronger than that of the vineyard. Though Francois Cotat's 2009s come in at c. 15% abv they are balanced by the inherent minerality of his exceptional vineyards. (Such has been the climatic change that Francois hasn't needed to chaptalise since the 2004 vintage.)
(David Berry Green)
This vineyard has more clay which perhaps accounts for its velvety charm. Tasting the 2009 I was struck by its cool composure in the face of some evidently richer than average fruit. Very subtle, creamy, plenty of detail, yet lacy all the same. Dry despite the presence of approx 5 grams of residual sugar; the sugar balanced by the vineyard's taut minerality. Good for 20 years at least, but drinking from 2014 I'd say.
The 2009 vintage was influenced by hail, draught hence an earlier smaller than average harvest, this is one of those rich sunny years where the personality of the vintage comes through stronger than that of the vineyard. Though Francois Cotat's 2009s come in at c. 15% abv they are balanced by the inherent minerality of his exceptional vineyards. (Such has been the climatic change that Francois hasn't needed to chaptalise since the 2004 vintage.)
(David Berry Green)
Domaine Francois Cotat, Chavignol,
Ready, but will keep,
From white stone strewn vineyards at the entrance to Chavignol, home to the Cotats, this early drinking Cotat wine from younger vines and flatter sites pings with elderflower essence, a hint of the Mosel, of wild mint, it’s supple & gentle. Very matter-of-fact, pure citrus and immediate.
David Berry Green - Loire buyer
Formerly known as ‘Cuvée Jeunes Vignes’, this comes from 15 year-old vines mainly planted on a flatter section of Les Monts Damnés. Aromatically this feels a little callow, with citrus aromas dominating. Initially there is a pleasing Cotat richness, before the primary grapefruit and lime flavours take over and bring everything in check. The finish is saline and pure, with a prickly, calcareous minerality which lingers. A wine which improves year on year.
Stuart Rae - Private Account Manager
David Berry Green - Loire buyer
Formerly known as ‘Cuvée Jeunes Vignes’, this comes from 15 year-old vines mainly planted on a flatter section of Les Monts Damnés. Aromatically this feels a little callow, with citrus aromas dominating. Initially there is a pleasing Cotat richness, before the primary grapefruit and lime flavours take over and bring everything in check. The finish is saline and pure, with a prickly, calcareous minerality which lingers. A wine which improves year on year.
Stuart Rae - Private Account Manager
Domaine Francois Cotat, Chavignol,
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Noticeably deeper in colour than in previous vintage, a sign of the smaller yield. Rich crushed strawberry and redcurrant on the nose. Creamy texture, weighty, punchy. Big and powerful, but not unbalanced. As François said, this is not a wine to be drunk ‘sur la terrasse en plein soleil’!
Adam Bruntlett
Leaving aside the elegant bottle and label, at 14% alchohol, this Sancerre rosé is decidedly lush, almost Tuscan like, with heavenly scented aromas of red berries. The palate is a bitter-sweet bundle of joy, with notes of pink grapefruit pith, all totally at ease and delicious! Drinking now to 2018.
David Berry Green
Adam Bruntlett
Leaving aside the elegant bottle and label, at 14% alchohol, this Sancerre rosé is decidedly lush, almost Tuscan like, with heavenly scented aromas of red berries. The palate is a bitter-sweet bundle of joy, with notes of pink grapefruit pith, all totally at ease and delicious! Drinking now to 2018.
David Berry Green
Domaine Francois Cotat, Chavignol,
Ready, but will keep,
Richer, ‘bigger’ nose than Les Caillottes Anise/fennel. A step up in concentration. Excellent balance of acidity and fruit. Mineral, with outstanding potential. Still a little closed but excellent length. Very little sugar, less than 3g/l. Most immediately appealing of the selection.
Adam Bruntlett
Francois’s Monts Damnés is clearly the best example of this famous Sancerre Cru! Faithful to the nervy vintage, this wine is cool, compact, a taut, tightly coiled core of briny minerality, such tension, his use of old oak in vinification giving this wine a spectacular Island malt saltiness, very succinct, needs time, plenty of time, drinking from 2015 to 2025.
David Berry Green
Adam Bruntlett
Francois’s Monts Damnés is clearly the best example of this famous Sancerre Cru! Faithful to the nervy vintage, this wine is cool, compact, a taut, tightly coiled core of briny minerality, such tension, his use of old oak in vinification giving this wine a spectacular Island malt saltiness, very succinct, needs time, plenty of time, drinking from 2015 to 2025.
David Berry Green
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Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd