Sancerre
Sancerre is a famous white Sauvignon Blanc appellation located on the left bank of the Loire. Its 14 communes are widely dispersed, covering nearly 3,000 hectares over vertiginous valleys at up to 350 metres above sea level, and three distinct soil types. As with nearby Pouilly-Fumé, an increasing number of single-vineyard wines are being raised in French oak, mostly 500-litre and demi-muids.
Sancerre is a famous white Sauvignon Blancanc appellation located on the left bank of the Loire, across from Pouilly-Fumé.
While Pouilly-Fumé's vineyards are tightly clustered and homogeneous, Sancerre's 14 communes (including the great villages of Chavignol, Bué, Verdigny, Amigny and Ménétréol) are widely dispersed, covering nearly 3,000 hectares over vertiginous valleys at up to 350 metres above sea level, and three distinct soil types: silex, a white flint found around Sancerre and Ménétréol in particular, giving perfume and a fine structure; terres blanches, a calcareous clay soil that whitens as it dries (widely distributed), delivering a full, fruity richness; and caillottes, a Portlandian soil brimming with large limestones imparting both power and verve – as found in Sancerre, Chavignol and Bué.
A fourth soil type, griottes, tightly-packed with small limestones, has also been identified – as found near the village of Vosges. Kimmeridgean clay crops up less consistently than in Pouilly-Fumé and since most Sancerre, bar the single-vineyard wines, are a blend of soils the result is a richer, fuller and fleshier Sauvignon Blanc.
As with Pouilly-Fumé, an increasing number of (single-vineyard) wines are being raised in French oak, mostly 500-litre and demi-muids; little surprise in light of naturally higher alcohol levels due to global warming. Sancerre Rouge is also made from Pinot Noir, the quality of which is often compromised by bleeding some of the juice to make rosé – Vincent Pinard is a master nonetheless.
Recommended producers: François Cotat, André Dezat, David Sautereau
Top vineyards include: Les Monts Damnés, La Grande Côte, Le Cul de Beaujeu, Grand (and Petit) Chemarin, Chêne Marchand
Prices:
Bottle
£16.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 284cs
Bottle
£19.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 57cs
David Berry Green
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
This vineyard has more clay which perhaps accounts for its velvety charm. Tasting the 2009 I was struck by its cool composure in the face of some evidently richer than average fruit. Very subtle, creamy, plenty of detail, yet lacy all the same. Dry despite the presence of approx 5 grams of residual sugar; the sugar balanced by the vineyard's taut minerality. Good for 20 years at least, but drinking from 2014 I'd say.
The 2009 vintage was influenced by hail, draught hence an earlier smaller than average harvest, this is one of those rich sunny years where the personality of the vintage comes through stronger than that of the vineyard. Though Francois Cotat's 2009s come in at c. 15% abv they are balanced by the inherent minerality of his exceptional vineyards. (Such has been the climatic change that Francois hasn't needed to chaptalise since the 2004 vintage.)
(David Berry Green)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
David Berry Green - Loire buyer
At just 1ha30 in size, this is the biggest parcel held by the domaine. There is a real feeling of biting into a grape here, as the sudden burst of ripe, fleshy fruit takes you aback. The juicy white peach flavours then give way to a fine core of mineral tension, leaving the overall impression of fragility and delicacy underneath the initial brash exterior.
Gary Owen - Private Account Manager
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Adam Bruntlett
Showing pretty white peach, this is a relaxed wine with detailed aromas, reflected on a suave, spellbindingly silky & effortless palate. It may be the early drinking Sauvignon Blanc of the Cotat range yet it’s on another planet in terms of finesse & detail when compared to other producers who label their wines as ‘Sancerre’, probably on account of lower yields, hand-picked harvest and the use of natural/wild yeasts! Drinking from 2014 to 2022. David Berry Green
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Adam Bruntlett
So different to Francois’s Monts Damnés, more Sophie Marceau to Monts Damnes’s Jean Reno, or perhaps a better analogy: it’s more similar to Knoll’s silky Kellerberg compared to their stony Schutt. Take your pick! Either way it’s so pretty, soft, with light elderflower aromas, there’s a honeyed edge which, combined with the intense salty nature of the vintage, reminds one of Speyside malts, of a cask sample of The Glenrothes! It is so textural, limey even. Again, this bulb needs time to flower, so recommend drinking between 2016 and 2026.
David Berry Green
David Sautereau has defied the challenging 2016 vintage with this outstanding wine, a magnifcent weave of Sancerre's ancient soils. A flinty grip lends to tension and backbone to a beautifully concentrated mid-palate, which rejoices in fresh, cool, green fruit, followed by a gently leafy and evocative finish.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017