France
Despite its complacency and notable challenges from all-comers, France remains the world’s finest wine-producing nation, and its famous regions – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Loire, Rhône, Alsace and increasingly Languedoc-Roussillon – read like a who’s who of all you could want from a wine. Full-bodied or light, still or fizzy, dry or sweet, for drinking now or laying down, infinitesimal variety is one of France’s great attributes.
Despite their own complacency, occasional arrogance and impressive challenges from all-comers, France is still far and away the finest wine-producing nation in the world and its famous regions – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Loire, Rhône, Alsace and increasingly Languedoc Roussillon – read like a who’s who of all you could want from a wine. Full-bodied, light-bodied, still or fizzy, dry or sweet, simple or intellectual, weird and wonderful, for drinking now or for laying down, France’s infinitesimal variety of wines is one of its great attributes. And that’s without even mentioning Cognac and Armagnac.
France’s grape varieties are grown, and its wines emulated, throughout the world. It also brandishes with relish its trump card, the untranslatable terroir that shapes a wine’s character beyond the range of human knowledge and intervention. It is this terroir - a combination of soil and microclimate - that makes Vosne-Romanée taste different to Nuits-St Georges, Ch. Langoa Barton different to Ch. Léoville Barton.
France is a nation with over 2,000 years of winemaking, where the finest grapes and parcels of land have been selected through centuries of trial and error rather than market research. Its subtleties are never-ending and endlessly fascinating. Vintage variation is as great here as anywhere – rain, hail, frost and, occasionally, burning heat can ruin a vintage. Yet all this creates interest, giving the wines personality, and generating great excitement when everything does come together.
However, this is not to say that French wine is perfect. Its overall quality remains inconsistent and its intricate system of classification and Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) based on geography as opposed to quality is clearly flawed, sometimes serving as a hindrance to experimentation and improvement.
Nevertheless, the future is bright for France: quality is better than ever before – driven by a young, well-travelled and ambitious generation of winemakers – while each year reveals new and exciting wines from this grand old dame.
Prices:
H/Bottle
£7.50
H/Bottle 24 x 37.5cl 276cs
Bottle
£12.50
Bottle 12 x 75cl 850cs
Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 145cs
The steep slopes of Limoux are in plain view of the Pyrenees and their magnificent terroir is especially kind to white varietals, particularly Vermentino (aka Rolle), Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the last of which dominates this blend and adds creamy complexity to a citric core, courtesy of an element which has been barrel-fermented.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 144cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 73cs
A classic Bordeaux white, this 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc is made just for us. Intensely aromatic on the nose, with ripe gooseberry and greengage fruit, the wine has wonderful lift and zest. Fresh and crisp, it has a surprisingly soft finish. A perfect apéritif, but also delicious with seafood, goats’ cheese and asparagus.
Max Lalondrelle - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£9.25
Bottle 12 x 75cl 646cs
Max Lalondrelle - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£9.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1,337cs
David Berry Green
Bottle
£10.45
Bottle 6 x 75cl 50cs
This is quite different from the hugely popular 2014, but just as impressive. Aromas of black fruit rather than red predominate and the alcohol, though worn lightly, is 1.5 percent higher – this due to a summer heat wave which worried even the most experienced vignerons in Beaujolais. Young Alexandre held his nerve, waiting for light rain to bring respite to the vines and therefore harvesting unwizened, juicy grapes which account for the winning freshness and sheer drinkability of his wine. A great candidate to be your “house wine” but consider it for grander occasions too.
Bottle
£10.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 39cs
Oliver Barton - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£10.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 9cs
With its lovely deep salmon colour the wine is immediately attractive, the nose does not disappoint: lots of zest and character and a slight smoky note; reminiscent of wild roses and pata negra. On the palate the wine is fresh and attractive with plenty of depth and body . The spicy end note is the perfect foil to the fruity mid-palate. Chilled well this wine is perfect for summer drinking - as an aperitif or with a summer barbeque!
Bottle
£11.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 28cs
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.
H/Bottle
£11.25
Bottle
£18.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Wine of the Week
Domaine Felines was bought by the Jourdan family in 1983. It is situated at Mèze, near the “Bassin de Thau” in the Languedoc. There are 40 hectares of vines and the Jourdans immediately began a replanting programme. Picpoul de Pinet was first produced at the domaine in 1992 and is a fascinating wine. Picpoul is an old-fashioned southern grape, which has long been due a comeback. It produces fresh, dry, whites with hints of citrus fruits, pears and fennel, buttressed by a crisp backbone of acidity.
This shows a rich, inviting nose of green apple, nettle and a delicate minerality, topped off with a just a hint of sea breeze. Fresh and generously fruity on the palate, the green apple persists with accompanying notes of pear, grass and citrus. Very clean and fresh, the finish is very moreish and would be the perfect accompaniment to a plate of oysters.
Bottle
£11.45
Bottle 12 x 75cl 65cs
Located in the heart of the village of Cérons in the Graves region, Ch. de Cérons is surrounded by tall stone walls. The château is located across from a beautiful 12th century church. Xavier and Caroline Perronmat took over management of the family estate in 2012. They accepted the challenge of producing wines of the highest quality in one of the least known, but oldest appellations of Bordeaux: Cérons.
Hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard, this is pressed in whole bunches. The juice is then fermented in temperature-regulated cuves to retain freshness. With a fine, warm July and August the vines gave their best: complex aromas of exotic fruits, hints of brioche and rose. There is great finesse, purity and length on the palate. This wine won the first prize in the Trophée des Grands Crus de Graves.
Bottle
£11.50
Mark Pardoe MW - Wine Buyer - Apr 2017
Bottle
£11.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 23cs
Made from 60% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah, the 2015 Terrasses du Larzac shines for its balanced, classical style and should easily be an outstanding wine. Made from 60% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah, aged in demi-muids, it has lots of minerality, notable tannic structure, good concentration and impressive notes of blackberry fruits and peppery herbs. It will drink nicely through 2025.
Jeb Dunnuck, The Wine Advocate. 28th April 2017.
Bottle
£11.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 22cs
This is grown on a plateau in Listrac, an appellation which remains underrated. The (relative) altitude of the vineyard imparts a winning freshness to the wine year in, year out. The 2008 is drinking beautifully now at nine-years-old, as notes of prune and sous-bois begin to reveal themselves alongside flowers and fresh red fruit.
Will Heslop, Buyer. Berry Bros. & Rudd
Bottle
£12.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 216cs
Bottle
£12.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 144cs
A blend of Grenache and Cinsault, direct pressed and fermented at relatively low temperatures, this is an archetypal Provence Rosé, a category which is getting more and more popular and in which the spectrum of quality is ever-widening. Mascaronne is right at the top of the pile, quite literally, its stony, photogenic vineyards carved out of the rocks, its fruit cultivated organically and at low yields.
The 2016 vintage enjoyed a benevolent ripening season, even by Provençal standards, and this harmonious backdrop has been expertly captured by our friends at Mascaronne. Cinsault and Grenache are the majority shareholders here, and are perfectly complementary; the first floral and lifted, the second rounded and generous. The wine is a symphony of red fruit and soft spice, its gentle nacreous colour perfectly antithetical to the expressive and joyful fruit basket of the palate.
Bottle
£12.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 187cs
Magnum
£29.95
Magnum 3 x 150cl 112cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Château d'Aquéria is one of the best producers in the Tavel appellation in the southern Rhône Valley, an appellation devoted, unusually, entirely to rosé production. At 14% alcohol this wine is powerful but winemakers Vincent and Bruno de Bez have taken full advantage of the approachable character of the vintage to achieve subtlety and harmony. The wine is a blend of ripe Grenache fruit, with plenty of saignée extract with some Syrah and then a little Mourvèdre in reserve providing structural support.
Bottle
£13.75
The modern era for this excellent Côtes du Roussillon estate dates from 1985 when the energetic Gérard Gauby took over the family estate. Previously the wines were sold in bulk to the local co-operative, but Gérard took the brave decision to go it alone. Today he is often described as the “uncrowned king of the Roussillon”, having put the region on the fine-wine map. His wines are elegant and modern with great balance and concentration.
Blackcurrant and blackberry fruit fills the nose, with a little spice and pepper on the palate. The wine has firm and grippy tannins, providing great structure and focus.
Bottle
£13.95
Though the nose displays a certain reduction, there is beautiful fruit behind and then a firmer finish. Made from exceptionally concentrated small bunches, this wine needs more time.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
Bottle
£13.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 33cs
Bottle
£13.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 144cs
Martyn Rolph, Private Account Sales Manager.
Bottle
£14.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 28cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
Max Lalondrelle, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
H/Bottle
£14.25
H/Bottle 12 x 37.5cl 1,458cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
Bottle
£14.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 61cs
Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£14.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 15cs
Bottle
£15.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 58cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, January 2012
Jean Michel is one of the great characters of the Rhône Valley, a natural leader with a keen sense of humour and an almost Messianic zeal when it comes to promoting the wines of Côte Rôtie and ensuring that they take their rightful place at the High Table of the great wines of the world. And, as seems to be the case in a number of properties in the valley his children are now taking key roles with both Mikael and Alexei sharing their father’s philosophy. 2010, they believe, is every bit as good as 2009, the latter a vintage with more alcohol and less fruit and natural acidity. 2010 is the year of harmonious natural equilibrium and as a result its wines will last longer.
Bottle
£15.35
Ch. Coutet is one of the largest Barsac properties and has been owned by the Baly family since 1977. Classified as a Sauternes Premier Cru Classé, Coutetis located in the south of the appellation. The wines are aromatically complex and lusciously concentrated.
Ch. Coutet is really pretty in 2013. It is rather light and more floral than many from this vintage and shows lots of engaging acidity. Focused, showing signs of dried apricots and even a little mango, this is very tasty wine indeed.
Case price (H/Bottle 12 x 37.5cl)
H/Bottle 12 x 37.5cl 34cs
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 96cs
On the nose this displays delicate crunchy red fruit with a soft, leafy note typical of Cabernet Franc. The mid-palate has lovely pure red fruit flavours moving to a good freshness on the finish. A great wine for food matching. Drink now to 2019. Pair with a plate of charcuterie, duck dishes or even red mullet.
Bottle
£15.50
Bottle 12 x 75cl 10cs
Adam Bruntlett - Wine Buyer