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Jean-Marc Burgaud, wizard winemaker in Morgon, introduced us to his cousin Alexandre’s superb Beaujolais-Villages. The wine comes from old vines in the village of Lantignié, which is regarded as being the best location for Beaujolais-Villages. The wine is made in classical Beaujolais style with the stems retained.
This is quite different from the hugely popular 2014, but just as impressive. Aromas of black fruit rather than red predominate and the alcohol, though worn lightly, is 1.5 percent higher – this due to a summer heat wave which worried even the most experienced vignerons in Beaujolais. Young Alexandre held his nerve, waiting for light rain to bring respite to the vines and therefore harvesting unwizened, juicy grapes which account for the winning freshness and sheer drinkability of his wine. A great candidate to be your “house wine” but consider it for grander occasions too.
This is quite different from the hugely popular 2014, but just as impressive. Aromas of black fruit rather than red predominate and the alcohol, though worn lightly, is 1.5 percent higher – this due to a summer heat wave which worried even the most experienced vignerons in Beaujolais. Young Alexandre held his nerve, waiting for light rain to bring respite to the vines and therefore harvesting unwizened, juicy grapes which account for the winning freshness and sheer drinkability of his wine. A great candidate to be your “house wine” but consider it for grander occasions too.
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22 millimetres of rain doesn’t seem like much, but the Desvignes siblings are adamant that their 2015s would have been a disaster were it not for a brief downpour on August 17th, which restored the domaine’s parched vines to full health. As it turned out, 2015 Voûte St Vincent is an utter triumph. The warm growing season has endowed it with a riper, darker fruit profile than the (excellent) ’14. The palate is gently rounded without being flabby. Louis-Benoît and Claude-Emmanuelle took great pains to avoid over-extraction, but haven’t deprived the wine of its brawny, yet silky tannins – a must for Morgon.
Drinking beautifully in spring 2017 and over the next three years.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
Drinking beautifully in spring 2017 and over the next three years.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
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Much deeper in colour than the domaine’s other wines, this cuvée is made from vines of sixty to eighty-years-old located mid-slope where pink granite meets clay – the latter contributing extra body without diminishing the lifted aromatics and mouth-watering freshness that are among the hallmarks of Fleurie. Its complex bouquet includes a caramel note, as well as violets and lashings of (just) ripe black fruit.
20% of the wine is aged in used oak, rounding the edges and reinforcing the structure that will enable it to improve over the next decade. With time, this will become as savoury and downright voluptuous as the ’09, tasted at the domaine in spring 2016.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
20% of the wine is aged in used oak, rounding the edges and reinforcing the structure that will enable it to improve over the next decade. With time, this will become as savoury and downright voluptuous as the ’09, tasted at the domaine in spring 2016.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
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The nose of summer pudding and violets is classic Fleurie. The palate is even more impressive, with flavours of ripe red berries, mulberry (aptly, this vineyard is named after the mulberry trees which once grew here) and a mineral note I’d describe as ‘cherry stone.’ Les Moriers lies on the border of Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, which accounts for it’s structure – lithe but with some of the muscle we expect from the latter appellation.
Like many of the best wines of Beaujolais, Les Moriers is light-hearted, quaffable, yet complex and fine, not to mention age-worthy. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
Like many of the best wines of Beaujolais, Les Moriers is light-hearted, quaffable, yet complex and fine, not to mention age-worthy. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
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Julien Sunier has established himself in an old farmhouse in Avénas, with three small plots of Cru Beaujolais to his name, all farmed organically. His plot in Fleurie is at the top of the La Madone hill, just behind the chapel, nicely protected from the elements by dry stone walls. The site has never been polluted by chemicals, so has impressive biodiversity.
Julien’s holding in Régnié is 1.1-hectare plot (1.45, as of the 2014 vintage), planted with 50-year-old vines, adjacent to Morgon. The wine is a lovely, bright pink-purple with a delicious, gracious, vibrant nose. There are flowers, especially peonies, and a little pink fruit, with just enough structure on the palate and very good length.
Julien’s holding in Régnié is 1.1-hectare plot (1.45, as of the 2014 vintage), planted with 50-year-old vines, adjacent to Morgon. The wine is a lovely, bright pink-purple with a delicious, gracious, vibrant nose. There are flowers, especially peonies, and a little pink fruit, with just enough structure on the palate and very good length.
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For proof positive of the capacity of Beaujolais to supply world class wines at an affordable price, look no further than Château Thivin, in Côte de Brouilly. Sept vignes is, ostensibly, the domaine’s most “basic” cuvée, but it shows remarkable complexity and finesse, and will continue to improve over the next decade (and perhaps beyond). It is sourced from seven parcels, with a variety of aspects and soils – mostly blue and pink granite – around the volcanic hill of Brouilly. Approximately a third of the grapes in this cuvée are de-stemmed.
The nose combines flamboyant aromas of strawberry compote, blueberry and more subtle savoury notes, which will become more distinct with the passing years.
The theme of cheerful red and blue fruit continues on the palate. This is riper and less austere than, say, the cuvée Godefroy, but has the same beguiling saline character to the finish.
Try it with carpaccio or tartare de bœuf.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
The nose combines flamboyant aromas of strawberry compote, blueberry and more subtle savoury notes, which will become more distinct with the passing years.
The theme of cheerful red and blue fruit continues on the palate. This is riper and less austere than, say, the cuvée Godefroy, but has the same beguiling saline character to the finish.
Try it with carpaccio or tartare de bœuf.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
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There are so many different styles of Beaujolais from the flowery to the tannic – Régnié fits at the sprightly and floral end of the spectrum, especially in a d
Delicious, fruit-laden vintage such as 2014. Enjoy this vivacious fresh young Beaujolais, full of bright red fruit, now or in the next years to 2018.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Delicious, fruit-laden vintage such as 2014. Enjoy this vivacious fresh young Beaujolais, full of bright red fruit, now or in the next years to 2018.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
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Jean-Marc compares 2015 to the excellent ‘09 vintage, but notes his wines have extra freshness (read acidity) in ’15 despite an exceptionally hot, dry summer. He’s happy with his decision to begin harvest early, on August 29th.
The 2015 Côte du Py is virtually opaque – the first indication of its remarkable concentration. The nose is relatively open with aromas of blue fruit and nutmeg, as well as a telltale sign of carbonic maceration: a beguiling, high-toned scent somewhere between kirsch and watercolour paint. In contrast, the palate is so tightly wound that it calls for decanting at least an hour before service. But once its muscular tannins have begun to relax, the wine’s finesse hoves into view. This is as full-bodied and powerful as Beaujolais comes, but its mouthwatering acidity provides balance.
If you can resist, this is likely to peak in 3+ years time, when it will make a sensational accompaniment to roast meat or game.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer, March 2017
The 2015 Côte du Py is virtually opaque – the first indication of its remarkable concentration. The nose is relatively open with aromas of blue fruit and nutmeg, as well as a telltale sign of carbonic maceration: a beguiling, high-toned scent somewhere between kirsch and watercolour paint. In contrast, the palate is so tightly wound that it calls for decanting at least an hour before service. But once its muscular tannins have begun to relax, the wine’s finesse hoves into view. This is as full-bodied and powerful as Beaujolais comes, but its mouthwatering acidity provides balance.
If you can resist, this is likely to peak in 3+ years time, when it will make a sensational accompaniment to roast meat or game.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer, March 2017
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Louis-Claude Desvignes, a seventh-generation vigneron, is currently producing some of the finest Morgons in the appellation. His vineyards are situated on the Montagne de Py, in the centre of Morgon, where the fruit is of far superior quality to that produced in the outlying areas of the appellation. The day-to-day running of the property is now in the hands of his charming daughter Claude Emmanuelle. She harvests later than other vignerons in the appellation with the intention of obtaining fruit of optimal ripeness.
This wine shows the depth and generosity associated with the clay-rich Javernieres vineyard at the foot of the Cote du Py. Rich purple with a most impressive density of fruit, this is but a babe in arms at the moment. And yet, the vast array of fruit in the mouth shows the potential, especially with the very fine long finish. Drink now to 2020.
This wine shows the depth and generosity associated with the clay-rich Javernieres vineyard at the foot of the Cote du Py. Rich purple with a most impressive density of fruit, this is but a babe in arms at the moment. And yet, the vast array of fruit in the mouth shows the potential, especially with the very fine long finish. Drink now to 2020.
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Brulhié, the ancient name for Brouilly, derives from the word brûlé (burnt), and Morello cherries (griottes) were once grown on this propitious five-hectare site, which was re-purposed by an ancestor of today’s winemaker Claude-Edouard Geoffray, whose family have owned the domaine since 1877.
It is no coincidence then that this fabulous cuvée, from south-facing vines that ripen rapidly in deep, hospitable soils, has a distinct whiff of wood-smoke and caramel. In one of those quirks of terroir and fate that abound in Burgundy and Beaujolais, there is also an unmistakable red-cherry character to both the nose and palate. The long finish delivers a cool cranberry crunch. So, a wine that does – with considerable style – exactly what it says on the label.
It is no coincidence then that this fabulous cuvée, from south-facing vines that ripen rapidly in deep, hospitable soils, has a distinct whiff of wood-smoke and caramel. In one of those quirks of terroir and fate that abound in Burgundy and Beaujolais, there is also an unmistakable red-cherry character to both the nose and palate. The long finish delivers a cool cranberry crunch. So, a wine that does – with considerable style – exactly what it says on the label.
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From a yield of just 22 hl/ha, Olivier Merlin has produced a beautiful wine from the 75 year old vines in the La Rochelle vineyard. It displays a beautiful,pure, purple colour with a heavenly, heady nose, with a gorgeous strawberry and red fruit perfume. On the palate there are some peppery notes as well, with a fine structure to confirm long term ageing potential.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer
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Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin-à-Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region.
The soil in Les Rouchaux is sand on top of blue granite, planted with 70-year-old vines. With a glorious black-purple colour, this is ultra stylish, more compact than 2009 but with grace and length.
The soil in Les Rouchaux is sand on top of blue granite, planted with 70-year-old vines. With a glorious black-purple colour, this is ultra stylish, more compact than 2009 but with grace and length.
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The wizard of the Mâconnais added Moulin-à-Vent to his portfolio in 2000. La Rochelle is one of the outstanding terroirs of the Cru. Olivier Merlin’s holding was mostly planted in 1937, with a small section dating back to 1955. He uses a classic Beaujolais-style fermentation, but has shortened the length of time in vat in the last few vintages to avoid undue astringency.
The 2011 has a black purple colour and glorious nose. This is full and complex, a magical and exciting wine, beautifully rich. Tannins are certainly present but not hard and dry. It has a very long aftertaste and all the vibrancy of the best wines of the vintage.
The 2011 has a black purple colour and glorious nose. This is full and complex, a magical and exciting wine, beautifully rich. Tannins are certainly present but not hard and dry. It has a very long aftertaste and all the vibrancy of the best wines of the vintage.
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Les Rouchaux is a single 1.5 ha plot at mid slope, close to the windmill itself, on sandy and alluvial soil with outcrops of blue granite manganese, with 70 year old vines. A concentrated wine from a very small crop here too, just 16 hl/ ha of very healthy fruit. Jet black purple in colour, this displays a bundle of dark fruit energy, good acidity, a wine that really shows the terroir more than the Gamay grape.
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The 2013 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes comes from 60- to 80-year-old vines. It has a very subtle and complex bouquet of blackberry, boysenberry and mineral scents that unfold in the glass.
The palate is medium-bodied with supple black fruit on the entry, but the back end exerts quite a grip. It does not quite have the panache of other vintages that I have tasted, but it is still an impressive Moulin-à-Vent that will repay those with the patience to cellar for several years.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
The palate is medium-bodied with supple black fruit on the entry, but the back end exerts quite a grip. It does not quite have the panache of other vintages that I have tasted, but it is still an impressive Moulin-à-Vent that will repay those with the patience to cellar for several years.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
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The 2013 Moulin-à-Vent Les Rouchaux spent 12 to 15 months in barrel. Compared to the 2013 La Roche, the fruit here is less broody and more open, some red cherries beginning to appear with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightly spiced opening, chalky tannin, and a focused, intense finish that leaves boysenberry and citrus fruit on the aftertaste. This is an excellent, modern-style Moulin-à-Vent.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
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Superb even purple colour. The nose begins discreetly but then begins to expand wonderfully, a lovely smooth rich fruit throughout, total harmony, very lovely long and fine. In recent vintages Olivier has pursued a lighter touch in extraction, allowing the fruit from ancient vines to be expressed more graciously.
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The 2013 Moulin-à-Vent La Roche was tighter on the nose that the 2013 Vieilles Vignes, but I think ultimately it will have more fruit concentration with those powerful bilberry and boysenberry scents intact. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry, a light grip to the tannin and a chalky, rather stern finish. It needs to just lighten up a tad, but there is still great potential locked into Thibault Liger-Belair's Beaujolais.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Dec 2015
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Dec 2015
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Dark cherry colour. Dark fruit, a little spiced but all very gentle and intense at the same time. Rounded, velvety but firm tannins, lots more chew than most of these wines. Complex, gentle but not very expressive though you can feel the depth and effortless concentration.
Jancis Robinson MW - jancisrobinson.com - Feb 2016
Jancis Robinson MW - jancisrobinson.com - Feb 2016
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This cuvée on the other hand is built for the long term. The young team of Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes and her brother Benoît are doing a great job here. The very intense jet black colour indicates immediately the concentrated nature of this wine. The nose is almost brutal in its youth, but not to worry: be patient. There is a huge density of flavour, black fruit with a touch of chocolate, real quality on every part of the palate.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
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Glowing purple, amazingly noble nose, much more grip behind, good acidity and also the minerality of the top of the slope. More tannin, indeed more of everything, compared to the first two delectable wines. Clearly a wine with great ageing potential.
Jasper Morris MW, Beaujolais Buying Director
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin à Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region.
Jasper Morris MW, Beaujolais Buying Director
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin à Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region.
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A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.
The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.
Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.