Gamay

Our first Beaujolais-Villages has been made by talented brother and sister team Louis-Benoît and Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes. The fruit comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines on a south-facing granite slope in the commune of Jullié, which sits at around 400 metres’ altitude. The old vines provide concentrated strawberry fruit, while the high altitude and granite soil give grip and mineral freshness. Made without oak to preserve the pristine fruit character, the oral top notes, sweet red-berry fruit and crunchy nish make this an irresistible wine.  
Adam Bruntlett -Wine Buyer

Alex’s is an exemplary Beaujolais-Villages, made the traditional way, using carbonic maceration and neutral (stainless steel) vessels. Expect lifted aromas of violets and red berries, lashings of juicy fruit on the palate, and a long, mineral finish – a nod to the protrusions of blue granite throughout Alex’s vineyards. In the region, a fresh, fruity Beaujolais-Villages like this might be paired with anything from charcuterie to roast chicken to a friture (akin to fried whitebait, traditionally fished from the Saône river) which illustrates just how versatile it is. It also makes a mouth-watering apéritif.
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant, autumn 2018

The 2017 is the best vintage I’ve tasted of Rocaillère’s old-vine Beaujolais. On the nose, expect aromas of summer pudding and violets, while the palate offers something more profound: grippy tannins and a pronounced mineral character, which speaks of the vineyard’s shallow, rocky (granitic) soils. This super wine is at its vivacious best served lightly chilled, as an accompaniment to charcuterie or hard cheeses.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)

Fifth-generation winemaker Raphaël oversees 27 hectares, planted primarily with Sauvignon Blanc. His holdings include a parcel in the littleknown appellation of Touraine Oisly, but Touraine Sauvignon is his bread and butter. The domaine is located in Chémery, some 65 kilometres east of the historic city of Tours.

Raphaël adds no sulphur to this fabulously fruity, aromatic Gamay – a wine that blew us away on a recent visit to the domaine. Its bouquet of red berries and violets is one to savour. The palate is exceptionally supple, pointing to 2018’s warm, dry growing season. It is named after Raphaël’s grandfather, Jean, who was a Gamay devotee. Drink now to 2020.

From the 2017 vintage, Alex’s Beaujolais Lantignié is made exclusively from his oldest and best-sited vines, primarily on blue granite, similar to that found on the Côte du Py (where Alex’s cousin Jean-Marc works his magic). It’s vinified in similar fashion to Alex’s Beaujolais Villages but with a slightly longer maceration, producing a more complex, concentrated wine, with an enchanting, lifted nose, reminiscent of a particularly fine Fleurie. Frankly, this puts most Cru Beaujolais in the shade, and fully endorses Lantignié’s fledgling bid for Cru status. Drink now or cellar for up to three years.  
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2018)

Made from the fruit of Alex’s oldest vines on the kind of thin, rocky soils to which Gamay responds best, this is a touch more concentrated and complex than his excellent Beaujolais-Villages. Expect black as well as ripe red berry fruit on the nose, while there’s a refreshing herbaceous character to the palate –a hallmark of the vintage – which demands another sip. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

A bouquet of ripe red and blue fruit speaks of the vineyard’s southerly aspect, but this cuvée – a perennial favourite of ours – retains the fresh acidity characteristic of Chiroubles. Sadly, production in 2017 was limited by hail so snap it up. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)

Bernard Métrat remains as modest as ever, but his wines go from strength to strength. The 2018 Roilette has a complex bouquet of violets, red and black berry fruit, cola and a hint of black pepper which, Bernard points out, is characteristic of the eponymous vineyard. The 2018 vintage’s warm, dry summer has imbued this wine with exceptionally supple tannins, but it doesn’t lack for freshness – the 60-year-old vines here have roots deep enough to access water even in a drought. Try it with crispy duck pancakes (but go easy on the plum sauce). Drink now to 2023. 
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

This exceptional Fleurie combines the lifted, floral bouquet typical of the appellation with the density of fruit and tannin specific to the south-facing Moriers vineyard. Drink 2019 to 2025.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)

Jean-Marc’s vines at the top of the Côte du Py suffered from hail on May 19th, so his mid-slope south-facing vines – which, he says, are most expressive of the slope’s famous blue granite – had more of a say than usual in the final blend. While this has a hugely attractive bouquet of berry fruit and flowers, it’s the intense mineral character of the palate that makes a real impression. Expect mouth-watering acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins that soften with time in the glass or decanter. There’s plenty of ripe fruit too, courtesy of a relatively warm growing season. A brilliant wine from one of the finest terroirs in Beaujolais, not to mention one of the finest winemakers.
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant

Having recently taken over from their father, brother and sister team Louis-Benoît and Claude- Emmanuelle Desvignes are making some of the most exciting wines in the village of Morgon, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. They make wines without using any oak, allowing the grapes and soil to express themselves.

Medium ruby in colour with vibrant purple highlights, the nose offers lifted, floral top notes and fresh raspberry fruit, while the palate is juicy, crunchy and energetic. There is a gentle sweetness to the red cherry fruit which marries seamlessly with the fine and chalky tannins. Drink now to 2024.

This complex, dramatic wine is a blend of fruit from seven separate parcels around the Côte de Brouilly. It is vinified in concrete, then aged for seven months in large oak vats (some over a century old). There are hints of black pepper and liquorice on the nose, while the palate is characterised by grippy tannins, cool red fruit flavours and fresh acidity, all of which speak of the vertiginous slopes; thin, sandy soils and blue granite emblematic of the appellation. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

The third vintage of Wild Soul is the first to be made exclusively from grapes grown in Lantignié, a commune renowned for its concentrated, age-worthy Beaujolais-Villages. It’s marginally fuller-bodied than its predecessors, but with the same explosive aromatics, fresh acidity and sheer buvabilité. Conceived for early-drinking, Wild Soul has no S02 added, but is bottled with a higher level of CO2 than Julien’s cru wines – this protects the wine (in the absence of SO2) and contributes a very subtle, energising spritz to the attack.This pairs brilliantly with quiche Lorraine. Expect to make short shrift of a bottle. Drink now to 2021.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

Moulin-à-Vent was badly hailed in 2017, so Olivier did not make a bottling of his single-vineyard La Rochelle, instead blending the fruit into this single bottling. Théo looked after the vinification, de-stemming the fruit and using very gentle extraction to produce a gorgeous, pretty wine with rich red and black cherry, white pepper and a concentrated but fresh feel. Drink 2019-2025.

Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.

This is the second vintage of Claire’s fabulous Gamay, made from grapes grown by her friends in the Allier département (Auvergne). So pleased was Claire with the 2016 – born of necessity when her vines in the Hautes-Côtes were severely frosted – that she repeated the experiment. In our view, the ’17 is even better. It’s slightly hazy in the glass and brick red in colour. The nose is intensely varietal, with red berry and floral aromas to the fore. As for the palate, it’s ever so slightly spritzy, but clean as a whistle. This isn’t a wine for laying down, or one to savour over consecutive nights – no, it’s an exceptionally expressive, energetic wine to drink with great gusto but minimal ceremony. Drink now to 2020.
Adam Bruntlett, Buyer (summer 2019) 

Even in its infancy, the 2018 Griottes is exceptionally complex, with a gamut of aromas including ripe red and blue berries, cola, black pepper and liquorice. The eponymous vineyard’s southerly aspect results in a relatively ripe, concentrated wine, yet its thin, rocky blue soils – emblematic of the Côte de Brouilly – contribute a cool, mineral character to the palate. The 2018 vintage will drink well right out of the blocks, but don’t hesitate to tuck away a few bottles, to marvel at just how well it ages. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019) 

Julien’s 2018 Régnié is as expressive, open and downright fun as he is. It is blended from four well-sited parcels of old vines on sandy soils, with pockets of clay (seldom seen in neighbouring Fleurie) and frequent protrusions of pink granite. Julien chose to age 40% of the blend in concrete eggs, which have added a touch more weight and texture compared to previous editions, without detracting from the finesse and energy that are this wine’s hallmark. A versatile food wine, but I can bare happy witness to its compatibility with tomates farcies. Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

As ever, this is Louis’s richest and most serious wine, displaying a nose of rich, black fruit and savoury spice. There is still wonderful purity, along with an enormous density of black cherry fruit at the core. The structure is equally dense and present, but is balanced by the softness in the mid-palate. Once again, the lingering impression is one of freshness and energy. A wine which needs significant time to realise its potential. Drink 2022-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.

Julien’s Fleurie is his signature cuvée – and is one of our favourite wines from all Beaujolais. It’s made from grapes grown in two organic-certified parcels on steep slopes in the lieux-dits of La Tonne and Grand Prés. Ageing takes place in oak barrels that are around 10 years old. The resulting wine is intensely aromatic, with an ever-changing bouquet including summer pudding and violets. While the nose becomes more expressive with time in the glass, the palate seems to become more precise: there’s a cool, mineral thread beneath this wine’s voluptuous exterior. Served lightly chilled, it’s a fabulous accompaniment to cold or barbecued meats. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

Thanks to the hail, this is a blend of three lieux-dits – Bel Air, Cercillon and Joie du Palais – which were harvested at a minuscule 8hl/ha. The fruit was all de-stemmed and raised in 350-litre barrels (because there wasn’t enough to go into a foudre). The result is unsurprisingly concentrated with lots of red fruit, plenty of weight and a finish of granitic tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.

Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964.

From a parcel totalling 0.66 hectares, these 55-yearold vines are planted on blue granite soil on the Mont de Brouilly. A quarter was whole-bunch fermented. The nose has rich, almost black fruit and a touch of garrigue spice, while the palate is stony with meaty black cherry and a firm, mineral texture. Drink 2021-2028.

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.

Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964

The 2015 Moulin a Vent la Roche contains 40% whole bunch fruit and is aged in 30% new oak. It comes from 70-year-old vines cropped at 24 hectoliters per hectare. This is much more controlled and sophisticated on the nose compared to the Vieilles Vignes, more mineralité showing through. The palate is well balanced with chewy tannin, grippy in the mouth with black cherries, tar and blueberry on the heady finish. This is a delicious, quite punchy Moulin-à-Vent from Thibault Liger-Belair.
Neal Martin (summer 2017)

A modern style with upfront, vibrant and chewy oak in a well-executed combination with forward fruit. Glossy, luxurious and enjoyable.
Drinking Window 2018 - 2023
Andy Howard MW, James Lawther MW & Matt Wilkin MS, Decanter, (summer 2017)

The 2015 Moulin a Vent Champ de Cour comes from 80-year-old vines and is 30% whole bunch fruit with 30% new oak. This easily has the best aromatics: red cherries, kirsch, a touch of cassis and fresh fig, quite complex and well defined. The palate is vibrant on the entry with a fine line of acidity, crisp and energetic with a sturdy, slightly backward finish that suggests it will need a couple of years to fully mature.
Neal Martin (summer 2017)

Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin-à-Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region. This is the first vintage made from two small plots of ancient vines, planted in 1879 and 1882. The vines appear to be ungrafted – a moment of pre-phylloxera history! No new barrels have been used, to allow the fruit to speak for itself.

With an intense, full purple colour, the bouquet has a lively, lifted quality far removed from simple Beaujolais. The wine is incredibly velvety on the palate, yet refreshed by excellent minerality. Very suave and long.

Glowing purple, amazingly noble nose, much more grip behind, good acidity and also the minerality of the top of the slope. More tannin, indeed more of everything, compared to the first two delectable wines. Clearly a wine with great ageing potential.
Jasper Morris MW, Beaujolais Buying Director


Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin à Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region.

Olivier Merlin uses a classic Beaujolais style fermentation, but has shortened the length of time in vat in the last few vintages to avoid undue astringency. This wine comes in part from La Rochelle (see below) and in part from other sectors of Moulin à Vent. There is a lovely perfume to the nose, followed by a complex palate with a touch of chocolate alongside the strawberry fruit. Drink 2013-2016.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director